Best way to prep new fenders?

[mpio13]

So I got me some beautiful, completely rust free front fenders, wheel wells and doors. The plan is to paint the top gloss black or maybe flat black, then below the trim I want to bedline or undercoat. Heres the driver's side:
View attachment New Fender.bmp
View attachment New wheel well.bmp


So, I'm obviously going to do some light sanding, right? What do you guys think for grit? I'm no bodywork guy. But I know I'll sand them a bit and clean them up.

What kinda of products are out there that are best for keeping these babies rust free in harsh New England? I'll be doing all this with rattle-can too, I don't have a spray gun, or a place to spray. I've used rustoleum primers before, that claim to be rust fighters, and some rust converters. Also, once back together, is it a good idea to spray undercoating into the areas where the fenders meet the wheel wells? Or to maybe undercoat the entire wheel well before installation?
Thanks in advance.

 

[ryoken]

most single stage paint likes about a 320 cut.. bedliner 180 to 220...

 

[mpio13]

thanks ryoken, you have this bodywork stuff figured out eh? I notice you post and reply alot about paint and sheetmetal and things like that. so i know you definately trust worthy.

that only leaves me wondering about all these rattle can primers, rust stopping primer, self etching primer, 'cold galvanized' primer??? like i said, im in New England. these parts DON'T show up around here in this condition often, so I really want to seal them up well for winter, and off roading.

 

[ryoken]

thanks ryoken, you have this bodywork stuff figured out eh? I notice you post and reply alot about paint and sheetmetal and things like that. so i know you definately trust worthy.

that only leaves me wondering about all these rattle can primers, rust stopping primer, self etching primer, 'cold galvanized' primer??? like i said, im in New England. these parts DON'T show up around here in this condition often, so I really want to seal them up well for winter, and off roading.

sorry I didn't get back to this...


well, I went to vo-tech for it, worked in a resto shop for 4 yrs, a collision shop for 4 yrs, and have been doing all aspects of boat fiberglass/gel/paint for 20 or so.... I've painted about 2000 cars and probably 1000 boats...

nothing in a rattle can, or air-dried from a gallon, will ever come close to a catalyzed product... there's a big difference in the base resin between the 2...

my suggestion would be to sand the factory paint thoroughly with some 180 to 220, meaning absolutely no shine anywhere, than buy yourself a sandable primer, it will be labeled as such... prime, than sand thoroughly with the grits I mentioned earlier for each section...

liner and paint of your choice.... just be aware that air dried enamels take a long time to dry, and will always remain somewhat soft...

 

[mpio13]

awesome. thanks.
i will post up some pictures when i do this. now i just have to decide whether to do gloss black or flat black on the top side...

 

[496truck]

What kinda of products are out there that are best for keeping these babies rust free in harsh New England?

It's called a climate controlled garage. And never driving it..... EVER!

 

[ryoken]

awesome. thanks.
i will post up some pictures when i do this. now i just have to decide whether to do gloss black or flat black on the top side...

good results can be achieved with gloss, but it isn't always easy on large panels due to tiger striping... sometimes the rattlecan sprayer tools help, but the pattern is only so wide.. gloss will be the most durable too.. but rattle can gloss doesn't buff real well...

flat's have a tendency to get dirty easy and not be as durable.. but are easy to get a decent look..

ya might wanna consider a satin or semi gloss, nice compromise..

It's called a climate controlled garage. And never driving it..... EVER!

it's amazing what a well done quality coating system can hold up to compared to cheap sh*t... well done being critical...