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Best way to remove surface rust?

LVJimmy

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I need to remove a bunch of surface rust. What’s the current best product to do it. Truck will be repainted in the very near future and I don’t want the rust to visit again.
 
I need to remove a bunch of surface rust. What’s the current best product to do it. Truck will be repainted in the very near future and I don’t want the rust to visit again.
I have used a couple of different styles, if you want clean steel use the evaporust now in gel form.
If you want to paint eventually it is easier to use a rust converter, it will also form a coating against rust and also paintable
 
Thanks. I have used Por 15 in the past just figured after 20 years there might be something better
 
I have used OSPHO with pretty good results. if I remember right, its about $30/gallon. 12 hour cure time before painting. Its alot like the POR15. Disclaimer though, I have not used it on body panels yet, just to stop the rust on the frame. makes it a paintable surface.
 
Most rust removers like Naval Jelly are phosphoric acid based,and Coca-Cola has quite a bit of it in it..

Vinegar works good too,there are some that are more acidic than others--white vinegar is best and cheap at the grocery store and though most of it is only 5% acetic acid,there are some as high as 10%("double strength") or as high as 30% for industrial uses..might not find those in stock there though..
 
Surface rust? Vinegar and a shop towel.

Just go to You Tube and search D.I.Y. AUTO SCHOOL. Pete has a video on using vinegar to remove rust and it treats the metal so it doesn't come back. I'll try to post a link but I'm a 'puter dummy!
??? Don't be surprised if that's not the right one...first time I've tried it. I typed in Pete the body shop vinegar.

Dang! It worked! Miracles DO happen!

ETA: The guy has a video where he does an entire roof and trunk area of a car as well.
 
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If its just surface rust, a metal cleaner/rust neutralizer would be fine...vinegar, evaporust, naval jelly, mild acid etching type cleaner, etc. But be sure to clean the metal good afterward, with a metal prep cleaner or some dawn dish soap. Thoroughly dry w air and epoxy prime. Using something like POR might not get along with other topcoats, depending on brand compatibility.
 
POR-15 needs rust to activate it and work properly..
"P-O-R" = "paint over rust"..
I used it after sandblasting some frame sections and floor patches and it didn't stay on long,a few months later it peeled up like saran wrap..

Other things I simply wire brushed the loose rust off of and painted with it held up nice for years ,provided it wasn't left "bare" with no top coat ,exposed to the sun's UV rays..it loses its gloss and fades bad ..they make UV resistant type now too..some paints may not adhere to it because of the gloss,and its tough to sand !..
 
It doesn't NEED rust, but you do need to prep the metal with an etching wash...per their instructions.
POR is an encapsulator, which is easy to use and looks good, which is why its popular. But if the seal is broken oxygen and moisture will work its way under the coating without much visible sign until you can flake it off in sheets, exposing the rust underneath again. Its somewhat flexible shell hides things well, unlike most painted surfaces where it is quicker to detect damage underneath.
 
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