What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

best way to tighten rocker arms?

B

BayouBlazer88

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 31, 2002
Posts
353
Reaction score
0
Location
Lafayette, LA
The reason I'm asking is that I did what the Haynes repair manual suggested which is to put the motor at TDC, tighten the listed rockers 3/4 to 1 turn after all play has been removed from the pushrod, rotate the crank 1 revolution and tighten the remaining rockers in the same fashion. Well it didn't work. I even did it twice to make sure and they still click like crazy. So does anyone have a better suggestion for tightening these things to where they don't click at all? Also, I have aluminum roller rockers in the motor. Thanks.
 
Tighten them all Down until they are as tight as you can possibly get them... no more clicking!! /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

Honestly now... go to your local parts store, get some oil deflector clips, install them on one bank of valves, fire the engine up and tighten each till it just stops clicking, then give it an additional 1/2 turn. Do the same on all the valves and you should be ok. Do the break in procedure on the engine and then go back and re-adjust any that have become noisy again (if any). Just make sure you do NOT overtighten any (real good way to flatten a lobe or trash a push rod or lifter) /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Does autozone or Oreilly sell these deflector clips (only 2 stores close by)? And will these clips work on roller rokers? Thanks.
 
15839CDefault-53.jpg


Yes they will work with roller rockers, they only clip on the back side of the rocker and just cover the oil hole to redirect the oil downward, instead of your face.
 
They should carry them but not sure if they would work on roller rockers. Do be aware that there will be some valve noise on any hydraulic lifter engine. Should sound like a sewing machine (kind of a soft clicking noise). Make sure that is not what you are hearing as opposed to a loud clattering sound which is a mis-adjusted valve.

[ QUOTE ]
Does autozone or Oreilly sell these deflector clips (only 2 stores close by)? And will these clips work on roller rokers? Thanks.

[/ QUOTE ]
 
But but Timmay says that is wrong and the world will come to an end if you do it the way everyone else does it. That method is NOT IN ANY BOOK so it must be wrong.

I have set many valves this way. Just get her fired up and start listening to the rocker. You will here when it quits then just run it down 3/4 turn and lock off.

We are assumeing that you have hydrolic lifters and not solid?
 
I'm sorry I couldn't resist. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
Tighten your rocker arms however you want but the running method works.
 
/forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
 
I think I'm going to go with the method recommended by Comp Cams. It'll take a little longer being that I need to remove all the spark plugs to rotate the engine easily but it seems like it's the most accurate way. Anyway, thanks for the help guys.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I think I'm going to go with the method recommended by Comp Cams. It'll take a little longer being that I need to remove all the spark plugs to rotate the engine easily but it seems like it's the most accurate way. Anyway, thanks for the help guys.

[/ QUOTE ]

I personally think this is easier than the top dead center method mentioned above, but with the TDC method you can adjust both valves on one cylinder at one time.

I still prefer the exhaust closing, intake opening method and so do most cam manufacturers, so I do them that way.

As to the running method /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif to each his own. I'm sure there are a number of things around the shop that I do that you guys would /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif at too though.
 
This may make the job a little faster for you...cleaner also.
Lash Adjustment for Chevy V8’s


Due to the adjustable rocker arms on Chevy V8 engines, it is necessary to set the lifter preload (hydraulic cams) or clearance (solid cams) when installing a new camshaft. While there are a number of methods of doing this, the following is the cleanest and fastest method found so far.

Rotate engine to top dead centre on cylinder No.1
Set exhaust valves #1-3-4-8
Set intake valves #1-2-5-7

Rotate engine 360° to top dead centre on cylinder No.6
Set exhaust valves #2-5-6-7
Set intake valves #3-4-6-8

Make sure the engine is rotated 360° (This is easy to forget)
 
This is what I do when I don't want to get messy. It is the common sense method for those who understand how a camshaft works. This best part is, you can knock out all 16 valves in 15 minutes. The exhaust closing, intake opening method takes to freaking long and is a pain in the ass by yourself.
 
I have been using this method which is also the one suggested in the Haynes repair manual but has never worked for me. Everytime I've done it I've gotten clicking valves so now I'll try Comp's method which takes longer, yes, but I think it's a little more thorough. I'll have help turning the crank (my little brother, haha) so it should go by fairly quickly.
 
There are several ways to adjust valves, everyone has a procedure that they are comfortable with.
Doing them with the engine running is one way and one I use if the cam has already been broken in.
On a new cam and lifter set up I always use the EOIC method.
For one I do not like to be screwing around with the lifters when the engine is supposed to be at 2000 rpms for 20 minutes.
As far as the lifters being pumped up..
I use a modified distibutor and a drill to spin the pump while rotating the engie a few times.
Once I have oil coming from all the push tubes I adjust the valves, after doing a couple spin the pump again.
I do this untill all valves are done.
I have never had a clackin lifter on start up and can run the engine at 2k for 20 minutes with no worrys about damaging the cam and lifters.
Yes it is kinda time consuming but considering that I usualy degree the cam and check valve train geometry before I even break in a cam it's just another step that I do .
Granted not everyone does this but that's just how I do it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom