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Big Axles!!!!!!

SierraClassic said:
a midly built Ford 9 inch will outlast a stock 14 bolt FF, while being a lot lighter with more ground clearance (smaller pumpkin) :)
Pure opinion. Though... not my opinion.
 
sta500666 said:
Hey, thanks for all the tips. By the way Dana 60 fronts arn't that expensive. I fouund some cheep ones on Ebay.
Typically the prices look low until near the auction end when all the sniping happens...

Average price for a complete D60 front that needs freshening up is still about a grand. Then the upgrades begin.

Rene
 
sta500666 said:
I have an 86' K-5, and I'm tired of my pussy half ton axles. I am thinking of getting a Dana 60 front, and a GM corporate 14 bolt rear. I am planning on making my Blazer into a mean indistrucktable off-road machine. I was just wondering if those big axles are the way to go, because I have been watching the Trucks T.V. marathon, and he is using a lot of Dana 44 fronts, and Dana 60 rears, or 9 inch rears. I guess all I want to know is will those axles work good for some heavy duty off-road abuse?
About the TV show TRUCKS. I also have noticed them useing Dana 44's. I keep asking myself why. Only reason I can come up with is that is what the sponcers are giving them for free. Personally I'd like too see them pull in a K30 for a donor truck, strip it for parts, rebuild the axles,...ect.
 
Are the 14bff and 60's from CUCV M1008's a "bolt in" or is there a significant amount of work to be done. I have seen those entire trucks sell, in non running condition, for around $1000 which would be great if you can steal both axles and anythig else.
 
Yes, those axles are as "bolt in" as they get. Minor stuff here and there but very easy. The rear 14bff should have a Detroit locker in it already and the gear ratio is usually 4.56. $1000 is a score for a 1 ton M1008.

Harley
 
Not the CUCV blazer, the CUCV K30. I forget the numbering on them. The K30 axles are 1 ton with 4.56's and a detroit in the back the blazer axles are 1/2 ton with 3.08 gears.

Harley
 
SierraClassic said:
a midly built Ford 9 inch will outlast a stock 14 bolt FF, :)
Put down the crack pipe. What will that "mildly built furd 9 inch cost vers the stock GM 14 bolt FF ??? That's something too think about also. So a mildly built 9", huh ?? What about a mildly built 14 bolt FF ??
 
Hossbaby50 said:
Not the CUCV blazer, the CUCV K30. I forget the numbering on them. The K30 axles are 1 ton with 4.56's and a detroit in the back the blazer axles are 1/2 ton with 3.08 gears.

Harley
than it wouldent really be a straight swap, you have to cut/reweld the perches on the 14ff:xmas:
 
That would be sweet if they did a show where they stripped a K30 and built a bad ass blazer, and it would be cool if they showed them boxing the fram and ****. I wish I had more money I would get so much **** for my truck.
 
I bought axles out of a CUCV truck for 1500, with 4.56s and a detroit in the rear and usually low miles. It is really pretty cheap. I just swapped mine right in. On the 14 you will have to cut and reweld spring perches and shock mounts, really easy. I just bolted mine up, I didn't go through anything even brakes. I figured that I might rebuild them in a while and switch to lower gears, but I have not had any problems. IF you go through them or not I would put 35 spline outers on the 60 either way, but definetly do the 35 spline if you rebulid the 60.
 
Back when I was in highschool I had a 87 K5 with 10 bolts and 35s. Went through a couple of axle shafts and bearings. Back then I did not have the money to upgrade. I just recently got myself another K5 (84) and the 1 ton axles was the first thing I upgraded to (D60 and 14BoltFF).

Just my opinion, but if you are going to spend the coin to get new axles, might as well get the D60 and 14Bolt. However, it all comes down to your budget and what you want to do. D44 in the front should be fine, but my D60 gives me piece of mind. Also, while you are doing all the work, put a rear disc conversion on the 14 bolt. Good luck with your project.
 
I have delt with some real serious 9" rear ends ( I'm not talking about anything that Henry offered -I am talking about all high dollar afternarket equipment like MW's Strange , etc..... ) and not one of them would withstand the weight capability's and tall tire strain that a GM issued 14FF can take.

Just compare the carrier bearings on the biggest 40 spline diff. 9" that can be found and the O.E.M. 14 bolt stuff. I fully understand the benefit of light weight strong rear ends but lets talk durrability - Take a stock CUCV 14FF and a built after market 9" and put them under trail truck with 38" plus size tires and beat on them for the next fifeteen years and see which axle needs attention first.
There are strong 9" rear ends out there but they all have a shorter service life in a demanding application.
JMHO , Tom
 
Look around... find what you can...
there are boneyards around here that sell 14bolt ff's for $35-$50 in working order.. if you look hard enough you can even find ones with 4.56's

years ago I bought a truck, rusted to all hell for $500
d44/350 4bolt/smc465/np205/14bolt ff - Camper special.. 4.56's factory

also bought a truck to where I got my front d60
parts truck fully running on 38's, rollbar, tube bumper, stock tach, dual tanks, TONS O PARTS
d60/305/turbo 350/np203/14bolt - 7" lift (3 body 4 susp) with 38" gumbo mudders (and a mismatch in there too)
I sold my d44 front and the 14bolt for $250 so basically I paid $250 for this
http://rootbreaker.no-ip.com/PROJECT_NJLEGAL/9_20_2003/partstruck.htm

side.jpg



from what I have found on 14bolts... a 3/4 ton is a drop in replacement on another 3/4 ton and a 1 ton is the same... put a 1 ton 14bolt into a 3/4 ton is where you experience the need to swap spring perches.... now this is only from what I have seen...

example... I was going to junk the parts truck but another friend is re-building it.. he has a 3/4 ton 14bolt and it doesnt fit.. however he is going to trade the guy that I sold mine to so neither of them have to re-weld the perches....
 
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Hossbaby50 said:
Yes, those axles are as "bolt in" as they get. Minor stuff here and there but very easy. The rear 14bff should have a Detroit locker in it already and the gear ratio is usually 4.56. $1000 is a score for a 1 ton M1008.

Harley
The military sells them cheap if they are not running. You can find them beat up with stuff missing (engine and interior components usually) on the cheap if you buy direct. I don't need the diesel engine or interior anyway.
 
Quit half-assing. Go for the 5-ton military axles. :D


Sure, you'll have to run 44s but is that really a bad thing??
 
sta500666 said:
Hey whats the big difference between 4.56 and 4.10?
About .46 :D

4.56 will give you more grunt but you'll lose some top end. Reverse that for a 4.10. What size tires are you running? There was a chart somewhere that has a correlation between tire size, axle ratio and type of driving. Damned if I can find it now, though. :mad:

Edit: here's one but not the one I'm looking for-
http://www.summitracing.com/landing/mustang/article_pages/tz_02torque_converter2.htm

Edit 2: Found it- http://www.superlift.com/information/gearing_up.asp
 

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