Sheared Grade 8 says a lot about the problem. That in its self says the shock is stronger at shear than the single shear point grade 8. Shock is over extended and trying to stop the downward force of the front or rear axle.
CK5
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Bilstein shock failure. What is wrong?
- Thread starter Magikal
- Start date
Isn't it possible the damage happened on compression the side loading of the single-shear bolt cracked the side out of the threaded eye section? It seems like if droop had enough force to shear the bolt it would rip the shock apart. In either case, multiple smaller impacts could have been bending the bolt back and forth until it broke off, once the angle got wonky enough that could crack the threads out instead of bending the shaft.
I have a junk 5125 I can send you if you need.
Magikal
1/2 ton status
Can you unscrew just the eye piece from the shock rod? My shock seems fine other then no eye on the bottom. No need to ship the rest just to throw it out anyways...
I am convinced
that the damage occurred from either bottoming out the compression or over extending the droop. Opinions on which it is? Fyi, I am installing bump stops and limit straps now.....live and learn...LOL. What stroke shocks is everyone else use with the 52's up front and 7" shackles?
Magikal
1/2 ton status
Update: came home today and the new shock I ordered had arrived. Here are a couple pics of it new for comparison. It looks like the last 1/8" of the rod as it enters into the threads has seen some heat. I tried to unscrew the eye but I cannot get a good enough grip on the rod and I don't want to damage the new one. Thoughts?
Cycle your suspension?
Those are lock tighted on there. I agree with @blazinzuk
Magikal
1/2 ton status
Yeah. Easier said then done at the moment. Already compressed with shock off and came up with a bumpstop length. What is the best way to cycle it the other direction? Keep in mind I have no shop at the moment, barely even a flat spot (don't ask :-)), and the high temp in the next couple days is forecasted to be below 20°F... What size limit straps is everyone else using with 52's (stock rears moved to the front) and 7in shackles??
Articulate it by backing up on something with the back, the front will flex harder that way and strap it just before the leafs start to fan out. If you go past that it will bend springs.
Engine hoist is probably the easiest way to do it.
I'll expand a bit on what Steve said.
To compress the driver front. Put the engine hoist on the passenger rear. This will also allow you to check rebound (droop) on the passenger front. Switch to the driver rear to check rebound on the driver front, and compression on the passenger front.
If you don't have an engine hoist, find something to drive on.
I've done it some pretty sketchy ways. Stacked concrete blocks, stacked tires, stacked whatever I had around really.
It's best to take off all your shocks when doing this
I'll expand a bit on what Steve said.
To compress the driver front. Put the engine hoist on the passenger rear. This will also allow you to check rebound (droop) on the passenger front. Switch to the driver rear to check rebound on the driver front, and compression on the passenger front.
If you don't have an engine hoist, find something to drive on.
I've done it some pretty sketchy ways. Stacked concrete blocks, stacked tires, stacked whatever I had around really.
It's best to take off all your shocks when doing this
Magikal
1/2 ton status
I have a engine hoist but it's in storage. And I have no flat spot at my house (rental) as it's waterfront and sloped. Really makes it difficult to work on anything. I don't see how raising the back will get me droop in the front....wouldn't it all be compression in the front? 
I have a engine hoist but it's in storage. And I have no flat spot at my house (rental) as it's waterfront and sloped. Really makes it difficult to work on anything. I don't see how raising the back will get me droop in the front....wouldn't it all be compression in the front?
Only raise one wheel.
I have a engine hoist but it's in storage. And I have no flat spot at my house (rental) as it's waterfront and sloped. Really makes it difficult to work on anything. I don't see how raising the back will get me droop in the front....wouldn't it all be compression in the front?
Trust me call a buddy with a driveway, this is something others like to participate in.
I usually use a strap or chain hooked to a wheel
Magikal
1/2 ton status
Ok. As I have been waiting for the weather to warm up enough to do something outside I have been thinking. Shouldn't I just be able to install a limit strap that stops just short of full shock extension without having to cycle it? We already know it cycles past the shock limits, hence this thread. I just want to order parts and make progress. Without having a shop, loads of snow, and bone chilling temperatures cycling the suspension is not an easy operation at the moment without waiting another two or three months.
God I need to find a shop. This is pathetic.
God I need to find a shop. This is pathetic.
Take the shock off and measure it. Put the limit strap on both shock bolts 1/2 shorter than full extention.
Magikal
1/2 ton status
That's smart thinking there!!
Ok, so according to Bilstein I have 29.7" extended length eye to eye so if I went with a 28" strap (come in 2" increments) I should be fine I would think. This sound right to everyone?
Ought to work. You can maybe make 1" extensions.
