What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Bilstein Woes.

fidelity101

fidelity101

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 23, 2012
Posts
272
Reaction score
118
Location
Watertucky, MI
So I ordered some shocks from summit and after reading a lot of reviews on here that I should just spring for the bilsteins since its stock height and I don't really plan on doing any lifts and etc. I also just want to do this job once.

I ordered front and back (obviously) but the front set doesn't appear to be correct, the rear's looked good though.

Here is the stock shock and all its 26 year old glory:

a0p6.jpg


This is what I got in...

qxis.jpg


The long part number on the shock matches the longer part number written on the box
m2kp.jpg


The rears have the part number 24-009331 written in black on the shock itself, this shock does not have 24-009232 written on it anywhere but F4-B46-2093-H0 is listed on the sticker and on the shock.

it also came with 2 bags of these:
10js.jpg


Still not sure how its supposed to bolt up, this is the image that the website shows ( and it looks like the correct one with the eye lid mounting position)

bsn-24-009232_xl.jpg

The picture shows -H1 which is puzzling why did I get -H0 in...

Are these in the wrong box? is this some sort of weird superceeded part number confusion? Has anyone had any experience with these 4600 series? I'm about to call Summit, they are usually good at sorting things out but I wanted to make sure that I wasn't crazy.
 
So I called summit and got it straightened out they are sending me replacement shocks, but the ones they are sending are part number 24-010269

Bilstein's catalog online shows this to be a rear shock for a G20 van and other sources ID as an auxiliary shock... (maybe part of the quad shock setup?) Their catalog also shows that the 24-009232 is the right part # for our trucks and it also has a picture that matches what looks like would actually go on the vehicle.
I have a feeling this ordeal is not over yet...
 
If your not going offroad a lot, then why use a hydraulic shock? My daily drivers get gas shocks, way better handling on pavement. I would just go down to Napa and get your shocks, easier to exchange and warranty. If your building an offroad truck then get Bilstein.
 
maxgforce said:
If your not going offroad a lot, then why use a hydraulic shock? My daily drivers get gas shocks, way better handling on pavement. I would just go down to Napa and get your shocks, easier to exchange and warranty. If your building an offroad truck then get Bilstein.
Click to expand...


All shocks are hydraulic....? (unless your getting high-end air spring/shocks) The gas just helps keep foaming and cavitation down.

No reason not to get nitrogen shocks for any application.
 
metalneverdies said:
All shocks are hydraulic....? (unless your getting high-end air spring/shocks) The gas just helps keep foaming and cavitation down.

No reason not to get nitrogen shocks for any application.
Click to expand...

I agree, all shocks are hydraulic. I also agree that gas shocks use compressed nitrogen to stop foaming. But, 90% of the vehicles come out of the factory with gas shocks, because they work better for everyday driving. If you collapse a shock and it lengthens out on it's own, it's a gas shock. Collapse a regular hydraulic shock and it stays collapsed. Gas shocks due better with quick consistent movement because they won't foam up. Put regular hydraulic shocks on a vehicle for everyday use will result in poor handling because it will foam up.
 
maxgforce said:
I agree, all shocks are hydraulic. I also agree that gas shocks use compressed nitrogen to stop foaming. But, 90% of the vehicles come out of the factory with gas shocks, because they work better for everyday driving. If you collapse a shock and it lengthens out on it's own, it's a gas shock. Collapse a regular hydraulic shock and it stays collapsed. Gas shocks due better with quick consistent movement because they won't foam up. Put regular hydraulic shocks on a vehicle for everyday use will result in poor handling because it will foam up.
Click to expand...
Apples and Oranges here. While adding a nitrogen charge is an improvement to a twin-tube shock, going to the Bilstein monotube design is a much bigger improvement. It's like he bought a CD player and you told him to get a cassette player instead - because they sound better than 8-tracks.
 
Blue85 said:
Apples and Oranges here. While adding a nitrogen charge is an improvement to a twin-tube shock, going to the Bilstein monotube design is a much bigger improvement. It's like he bought a CD player and you told him to get a cassette player instead - because they sound better than 8-tracks.
Click to expand...


I went and took a good look at Bilstein, and ok, I stand corrected.
 
They have a variety of shocks but for my stock height and application, gas HD 4600 is the way to go.

Tried to install the rears last night and I need to remove upper the shock mount but I need a 15/16" socket and more daylight. I wish it just slid right over the stock hardware but noooo it has to be all fancy...
 
fidelity101 said:
They have a variety of shocks but for my stock height and application, gas HD 4600 is the way to go.

Tried to install the rears last night and I need to remove upper the shock mount but I need a 15/16" socket and more daylight. I wish it just slid right over the stock hardware but noooo it has to be all fancy...
Click to expand...


Tip: Don't throw out your factory hardware. Keep it. If you ever switch shocks (i did when i needed longer), you need the old hardware.

You will LOVE the 4600's. Best shock i've ever used. Wish i was still able to run mine...but need something longer.
 
noted!

but I'm not sure i'm going to be able to get the upper part of the rear shock without a sawsall. No wrench fits between the washer and the frame there to hold onto the stud while you loosen the large nut from the other side.

If I sawsall 2 parallel sections off the washer I can fit a wrench in there.

So far aside from all this mishaps I'm pretty impressed with these shocks, may have to get a set for the rx7 too one of these days.
 
Without pics it's hard to know exactly what you're dealing with, but I have installed various shocks over the years without ever removing the stock upper mount in the rear. Can you press out the bushing that comes in the Bilstein and press in the one off your old shock (or something similar)?
 
fidelity101 said:
noted!

but I'm not sure i'm going to be able to get the upper part of the rear shock without a sawsall. No wrench fits between the washer and the frame there to hold onto the stud while you loosen the large nut from the other side.

If I sawsall 2 parallel sections off the washer I can fit a wrench in there.

So far aside from all this mishaps I'm pretty impressed with these shocks, may have to get a set for the rx7 too one of these days.
Click to expand...


I run their sport's in my BMW.

That being said, in my 91 burb, i didn't have to cut anything. Don't remember it being easy, but i WAS able to get it out.
 
Blue85 said:
Without pics it's hard to know exactly what you're dealing with, but I have installed various shocks over the years without ever removing the stock upper mount in the rear. Can you press out the bushing that comes in the Bilstein and press in the one off your old shock (or something similar)?
Click to expand...

Understandable, I can snap a photo later for reference, I could likely get it if I had a thinner wrench. I really don't want to press out the nice new hardware and bushing, I fear if I try and press the hardware out the bushing will come out with it. Also, I lack a press.

Also isn't your burb from CA? Granted mine is in Michigan now but its been in texas 95% of its life.
 
You don't necessarily need a press - just a some sockets and a hammer or figure something out with a bench vise or C-clamp. You can do whatever you want, of course, but you may not always want to buy the same replacement shock. Once you booger up the stock mount you're committed.

My K5 was an Arizona truck, but I've had it in MI about 14 years and I even drove it daily for several winters. Yes, at first every single bolt came out like the truck was brand new. Now, not so much...
 
This is the bolt I was talking about
tq4p.jpg

its a 15/16ths size nut on the inside of the frame and on the outside there is a provision to put a wrench in but no wrench that diameter is that thin to fit inbetween there. I got the one side off but the passenger side is loosened part of a turn but still need more work, real pain in the ass.

Blue85 said:
My K5 was an Arizona truck, but I've had it in MI about 14 years and I even drove it daily for several winters. Yes, at first every single bolt came out like the truck was brand new. Now, not so much...
Click to expand...

That is exactly why I'm doing the underneath stuff now. Its never been driven in winter yet but this winter it may see some towing. After shocks are done the only thing left underneath that needs replacing is body mounts and possibly leaf spring bushings, but the rubber in those looks good.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom