Love the kiddos helping their Dad! 
CK5
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Black Betty - Formerly Blaze the Monster Machine
- Thread starter centexk5
- Start date
1984 K5 Project for Dad and kids
She’s helped a lot. She helped tear down the engine that got rebuilt and are getting ready to install this week. She’s helped clean up. She’s taken a few bolts out here and there.
Typing that out, Wednesday is her last day of summer and I’m going to make sure she’s there to help me drop the new engine in place. Only fitting right?
Typing that out, Wednesday is her last day of summer and I’m going to make sure she’s there to help me drop the new engine in place. Only fitting right?
In like Flynn. Now to buy flex plate bolts, converter bolts, bell housing bolts, starter bolts, starter, water pump, fans, gas tank, sending unit, fuel line, trans cooler lines, trans cooler fittings, vss sensors, shifter, radiator, radiator hoses, air filter, valve cover spreaders, valve cover bolts, thermostat, thermostat housing, spark plugs, transmission mount, redo both driveshafts, hook up brake lines, commence wiring, and then maybe by Christmas try to start it.
Alright! A big step in the right direction....
I’m just glad it’s one more thing out of the shop and in its final place. Tired of stepping over drivetrain parts haha.
Not to be a jerk, but didn’t you just scrap all of those same bolts?
Martin
Martin
Going to ready for BB22 right
I am hoping the valve covers are on after the picture was taken.
I don’t like reusing 36yr old rusty and nasty bolts. Especially on clean shiny new objects. And the labor it would take to clean them up and run a die down them to freshen up the threads isn’t worth the $50 it costs me to buy new bolts.
No. Wrapped it back up in plastic. Gotta buy spreader bars and bolts and for some reason I’m being ridiculously undecided on what I want to do. Tall or short bolts. With or without Chevy emblems. Gloss or flat black. Only been looking for a year
I find that aftermarket stater bolts are not created equal. I like to use GM bolts for that.
Glad it's sealed up.
The tall T handle valve cover stud nuts always vibrate loose. I got a set of used ones floating around.
Glad it's sealed up.
The tall T handle valve cover stud nuts always vibrate loose. I got a set of used ones floating around.
Been doing some research on starter bolts.
For flexplate bolts I recommend ARP because that is a high stress area with the small pattern and not quick to get to.
For converter and bellhousing bolts I just use Grade 8 (or 12.9 for metric).
For starter bolts I use the GM if I can. Some aftermarket starters come with the bolts.
For things like water pump, valve covers, fuel pump plate, intake, etc, I just use stainless steel hex bolts or SS socket cap screws. They are a clean install, don't rust, and work fine. In fact I started carrying them in intake bolt kits I put together.
For the headers, if you want stainless on headers or collectors it's too hot for regular stainless, it will seize, you need ARP or Grade 8 there.
Those were my exact thoughts and plans Heath.
I thought you were undecided? Or is that just the valve cover bolts?
Just the valve cover bolts.
Bell housing bolts, flex plate bolts, and transmission bushing showed up today. With some luck I’ll have the transmission in this week.
Flex plate is in. Put a quart of fluid in the converter. Tomorrow I’m gonna clean up the crossmember and get the new bushing bolted on. Trying to locate a better transmission jack than my cheap hf one to lift this beast of a trans. Don’t want it falling on me.
Crossmember has seen some stuff.
Few other things. Bump stops were put on and got the front brake hard lines routed properly. PO had pulled them from their spot in the frame and had them pointed straight down. Also got the old calipers off. I tried to touch up that crossmember with the welder but it’s been worn so thin it’s blowing through so I’m gonna pick up some steel this week and cut and splice.
Got the transmission bolted to the engine. The right jack makes it so easy to do.
Unfortunately it looks like I’m gonna have to build a crossmember unless I can find one for sale. I’d read a few places that the 4L80 should bolt right in place of the 700r4. Doesn’t look like it will though.
Unfortunately it looks like I’m gonna have to build a crossmember unless I can find one for sale. I’d read a few places that the 4L80 should bolt right in place of the 700r4. Doesn’t look like it will though.
