CK5
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Black Betty - Formerly Blaze the Monster Machine

1984 K5 Project for Dad and kids
Got the transmission bolted to the engine. The right jack makes it so easy to do.


Unfortunately it looks like I’m gonna have to build a crossmember unless I can find one for sale. I’d read a few places that the 4L80 should bolt right in place of the 700r4. Doesn’t look like it will though.

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What cross member would you need?
 
I'd pull the bottom of the frame rails in a bit to see if it will work. I pulled the crossmember out of my Blazer to lower the tcase for shifter adjustments and when I went to bolt it back in the rails had spread about an inch. I put a long punch through a crossmember bolt hole then into the frame hole and was able to pull everything back in line (by hand) and bolt it back in.
 
Unsure. I just did more reading and everything says it just slides back ~1.5", drill new holes, and bolt the stock support back in.
 
I'd pull the bottom of the frame rails in a bit to see if it will work. I pulled the crossmember out of my Blazer to lower the tcase for shifter adjustments and when I went to bolt it back in the rails had spread about an inch. I put a long punch through a crossmember bolt hole then into the frame hole and was able to pull everything back in line (by hand) and bolt it back in.
Now there's a thought.
 
You shouldn't need a new crossmember, worst case you may need new holes length wise, but not width wise. Pull your frame in. I do happen to have a 4L80E and a 700R4 sitting in my shop currently, I could measure the length of both to the crossmember mount bolts.
 
Use a ratcheting cable winch with some axle straps or something around the frame to to pull it in. It will come back in.
 
I’ve got 3” wide ratchet straps we use to tie down hay bales and a 12k winch laying around with a spare battery. Turn this dang frame into a pretzel if I want haha.
 
K5 frames are tapered in the middle. Wider going towards the rear.
You may have to pull it in some, but I wouldn't go crazy. Drilling is probably going to be required for both directions. Be careful that you don't get too close to the edge of the flange.
 
I welded angle iron to the crossmember so it could reach the frame on both sides...it wasn't an issue in my old pickup, seems to be a Blazer thing.
 
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See that indent in the frame in the clouded parts? That's where mine is currently sitting. I'm going to try and mess with it more today.
 
Got the frame pulled in and mount installed. It’s kinda scary how easily the frame bends with a pair of ratchet straps. You can see how far back the whole mount had to slide. I went to put the t-case in and either I didn’t have it clocked right or I’m gonna have to run a 1” body lift to clear it which I really don’t wanna do. Floor might just need some loving from a sledge.

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Looking back, I wish I had kept the flat style from my previous one. I may end up building a flat one one day but for now this is fine.
 
I Was looking at the pictures and thinking doesn't that style go inside the frame? Might be wrong. Not alot of room above that trans
 
It came out from underneath and that’s how it went back in. It’s got holes for either direction. It definitely won’t fit over the frame.
 
ust thinking of all the high center abuse that cross member might get, the flat one might work out better.
 
It came out from underneath and that’s how it went back in. It’s got holes for either direction. It definitely won’t fit over the frame.
Was that crossmember out of a 1 ton?
The 1 ton frames are taller, and maybe the drop isn't correct for a K5?
Maybe the adapter isn't the correct height for a K5 frame too?
I always saw them bolted to the bottom as you did, with the long bolts and spacers on top, as Wes was talking about.
 
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