You just gave the reasons to do one thing at a time! Then check! Even a spark plug change can give issues or fix issues. I always use stock plugs for the motor even on retrofit. I have seen many issues with fancy expensive aftermarket spark plugs.
CK5
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Black Betty TBI swap
- Thread starter mrdrinksalil
- Start date
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
well the plugs in there now are just plain old split tip NGKs. The ones I was gonna swap in are some high dollar bosch ones I had sitting around.
I will re check the timing again and do the voltage checks again before I go messin with the plugs. They were just really black but there's prolly nothing wrong with them.
I will re check the timing again and do the voltage checks again before I go messin with the plugs. They were just really black but there's prolly nothing wrong with them.
See your not listening...
http://www.cfm-tech.com/GMtbituneup.htm
Replaced or even checked your Spark Plugs?
http://www.cfm-tech.com/GMtbituneup.htm
Replaced or even checked your Spark Plugs?
[FONT=Verdana,]READ THE FOLLOWING WORDS - Always purchase and install the recommended factory AC Delco spark plugs. Again, we can't tell you how many drivability problems or lack of power symptoms we see because of aftermarket replacements and expensive "Go Go gadget" split or multi electrode spark plugs. This is definitely a place where you can save your money! Why do we say this? Proper heat range is 5 billion times (exaggeration) more important than anything else a spark plug offers! [/FONT]
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
ahh. I see what you are trying to say. How do I know what plugs I should be using then!? I do have an MSD coil. The plugs always looked fine when I had the carb and HEI.
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
Timing was set correctly.
So my voltage checks are looking wierd. Wierdest thing to me is there is battery voltage at the park neutral wire coming from the ecu. I checked the whole length of the wire and it is not crossed with anything else. The park/neutral is not hooked up yet.
Can someone please take a look at these voltages.
EDIT.
Can't attach xls files. damn... .doc file was too big to attach too
So my voltage checks are looking wierd. Wierdest thing to me is there is battery voltage at the park neutral wire coming from the ecu. I checked the whole length of the wire and it is not crossed with anything else. The park/neutral is not hooked up yet.
Can someone please take a look at these voltages.
EDIT.
Can't attach xls files. damn... .doc file was too big to attach too
Last edited:
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
ok well I can't get the the file small enough as a pdf to upload or a .doc. WTF ck5. hahaha.
ANYWAY. I figured out that the voltage on the park neutral was normal with it not hooked up.
The other voltages that were wierd was the map sensor voltage never changed and the EST bypass (tan/black, pin d5 has 4.6 volts on it when engine running). d4, est control also has 1.2 volts at the ecu when engine running.
So I checked resistance on the temp sender and map sensor wires from sensor back to the ECU and that checked out good.
next i tested the resistance right at the temp sensor and compared to my cheap summit racing mechanical temp gauge.
875 ohms @ 120deg
754 ohms @ 130deg
420 ohms @ 170deg
360 ohms @ 180deg
All this looks normal but I did notice that the engine was running A LOT better with the temp sensor unplugged.
next I looked at the MAP sensor. had 4.42 volts no matter how much RPM i gave the engine. So I decided to swap the MAP sensor with another one I had on the bench. Got 4.8 volts key on and then ~ 1.7 volts an engine idling. According to the MAP sensor specs in the parts FAQ and the voltage checks I'm a little more on track now.
HOWEVER, the engine is running worse with the new MAP sensor. Will start running better when you disconnect the temp sender but gets really lean and will want to back fire.
Engine seemed to run the best with the original "faulty" MAP sensor and the temp sender disconnected.
ANYWAY. I figured out that the voltage on the park neutral was normal with it not hooked up.
The other voltages that were wierd was the map sensor voltage never changed and the EST bypass (tan/black, pin d5 has 4.6 volts on it when engine running). d4, est control also has 1.2 volts at the ecu when engine running.
So I checked resistance on the temp sender and map sensor wires from sensor back to the ECU and that checked out good.
next i tested the resistance right at the temp sensor and compared to my cheap summit racing mechanical temp gauge.
875 ohms @ 120deg
754 ohms @ 130deg
420 ohms @ 170deg
360 ohms @ 180deg
All this looks normal but I did notice that the engine was running A LOT better with the temp sensor unplugged.
next I looked at the MAP sensor. had 4.42 volts no matter how much RPM i gave the engine. So I decided to swap the MAP sensor with another one I had on the bench. Got 4.8 volts key on and then ~ 1.7 volts an engine idling. According to the MAP sensor specs in the parts FAQ and the voltage checks I'm a little more on track now.
HOWEVER, the engine is running worse with the new MAP sensor. Will start running better when you disconnect the temp sender but gets really lean and will want to back fire.
Engine seemed to run the best with the original "faulty" MAP sensor and the temp sender disconnected.
The ECU may need to unlearn its BLM stuff. Disconnect the ECU from all power for a few minutes. I think that is how you reset it, somebody who knows more may chime in.
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
I'm not sure how long the ECU needs to be disconnected to "reset" but I dont think it can learn. I think its only capable of slight adjustment to the fuel tables it allready knows. I could be completely wrong here.
Tonight I'm gonna put the fuel pressure gauge in and eliminate that possibility. The computer has been on the workbench all day so its for sure "reset". We'll see how she runs tonight.
Tonight I'm gonna put the fuel pressure gauge in and eliminate that possibility. The computer has been on the workbench all day so its for sure "reset". We'll see how she runs tonight.
dave w
1/2 ton status
The "Block Learn" function of the ECU will make minor adjustment to the fuel table. The Block Learn is mostly designed to adust for normal engine wear, and driving conditions ... hot / cold / wet / dry / altitude.
dave
dave
Just wondering if that is causing his lean condition.
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
Fuel pressure was only 10 psi. dropped to 7 under light throttle... 
It was a brand new E8153 pump that a few people on pirate said would work. I call BS on that one. Pump specs between 10-15psi. NOT Enough.
Got a E2000 pump on the way.
It was a brand new E8153 pump that a few people on pirate said would work. I call BS on that one. Pump specs between 10-15psi. NOT Enough.
Got a E2000 pump on the way.
dave w
1/2 ton status
I am wondering if maybe the fuel pressure regulator is bad?
dave w
dave w
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
its not. I took the pump off completely and tested it with no filters or nothin and it would still only make 10psi.
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
well, got the E2000 pump in there. STILL only 10 psi and will drop to 7-8 under throttle. BUT now if I pinch the return line the pressure climbs fast and pegs the 15psi gauge. I am thinking the regulator is faulty. ???
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
rebuilt the entire regulator with one of these kits
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_579522138___
and put new screen filters on the injectors. 10.5 psi. WTF. Cranked the regulator all the way up and had 12.5 psi. WTF. ran the engine and it still idled poorly at 12.5 psi. As soon as you give it light throttle the pressure dropped to as low as 5 psi.
If you pinch the return line off the pressure climbs high and fast.
I'm so confused...
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_579522138___
and put new screen filters on the injectors. 10.5 psi. WTF. Cranked the regulator all the way up and had 12.5 psi. WTF. ran the engine and it still idled poorly at 12.5 psi. As soon as you give it light throttle the pressure dropped to as low as 5 psi.
If you pinch the return line off the pressure climbs high and fast.
I'm so confused...
Could it be blockage in the fuel line?
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
well if it was it would have to be in the supply line and before the pump. Thats the only section I havn't checked. HOWEVER I have ran the pump and drained the tank right from the fitting on the TB and the pump flows fuel just fine.
Tonight I am going to take the tank, pump pre filter and return line out of the system and see what happens
Tonight I am going to take the tank, pump pre filter and return line out of the system and see what happens
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
it was something with the line/filter before the pump. Alternate fuel source got me a consistant 14psi and the truck would rev up with no lean backfire.
Didn't have much time to mess with it last night but tonight I hope to re run my tank to pump line with a new inline filter and see what happens. If that doesn't work I am going to be really disapointed with the priming capability of the E2000 pump. its mounted about mid tank level.
Didn't have much time to mess with it last night but tonight I hope to re run my tank to pump line with a new inline filter and see what happens. If that doesn't work I am going to be really disapointed with the priming capability of the E2000 pump. its mounted about mid tank level.
dave w
1/2 ton status
Nice work.
I use an alternate fuel source to trouble shoot with, and use for an engine test stand.
dave w
I bet the neighbors love that. 
