what shape are the plugs in??
CK5
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Blazer keeps dying...fuel problem??
- Thread starter 90blzr
- Start date
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Plugs are in great shape. I also was looking at the injectors and they seem to providing fuel was I was revving it up. more fuel as I give it more throttle. What sucks is it just does it under load mainly, when I am in gear, runs fine while in the driveway...
Thunder
3/4 ton status
Soi have you ever checked for trouble codes. That should have been the first thing you did before you start throwing parts at it.
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
Is your timing set correctly after you took the dist out. You have to unplug a wire to get the timing to set correctly @ 0.
Harley
Harley
I cant really diag nething over the net and it sux lol How does it start? turns over a couple of times and then fires up? Ive had leaking injectors do what your discribing before too. Timing can also cause this. Do you have a timing light?
Check and test your EGR and EGR soleniod.
My 87 Blazer w/350 TBI would idle just fine, but when you put a load on it, it would sputter and die. And if I put it back in park it would idle back to normal.
I checked the EGR valve and it was full of carbon...Replaced it and now it runs fine.
There is a way to test and see if the EGR or solenoid is working.
My 87 Blazer w/350 TBI would idle just fine, but when you put a load on it, it would sputter and die. And if I put it back in park it would idle back to normal.
I checked the EGR valve and it was full of carbon...Replaced it and now it runs fine.
There is a way to test and see if the EGR or solenoid is working.
bowtiepower00
1/2 ton status
I know you've already done it once, but I'd change the FF again. One bad tank of fuel is enough to fill one up. I'd replace it with every oil change.
Thunder
3/4 ton status
GM trouble code info:http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/
The ALDL data link port is under the dash by the steering column.
After rereading this thread and the description of your problem I am going to guess your Throttle Position Sensor is bad (TPS). Or possibly a bad Dist module.
Check codes A bad module will either throw a code 42 or no codes at all except the normal code 12.
TPS will throw a 21 or 22.
The ALDL data link port is under the dash by the steering column.
After rereading this thread and the description of your problem I am going to guess your Throttle Position Sensor is bad (TPS). Or possibly a bad Dist module.
Check codes A bad module will either throw a code 42 or no codes at all except the normal code 12.
TPS will throw a 21 or 22.
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
Nope, code 12 is the standard code in the computer. It means you have no codes saved in the computer.
Harley
Harley
Thunder
3/4 ton status
Does your CEL come on and go off while driving or before it dies? If so I would suspect the Dist module. If there are no codes except a 12 it also points to a bad module.90blzr said:
A code 12 means No spark signal from the module. A code 12 comes up when you do a diagnostic test because the ignition is on but the engine is not running so there is no spark signal. It also indacates that the ECM is functioning and is in diagnostic mode. This usually indicates that the ECM is Ok also.
When you replaced the Dist module before did you coat the back with the white dielectric grease that came with it? Was it a AC delco module? It really is not that uncommon for other brand aftermarket modules to fail soon after install.
Thunder said:
Okay finally got my computer back up so I can reply.
I replaced the ignition module AGAIN. Yes I coated the back with the grease. STILL did the same thing. So friends were saying it could be the catalytic converter. So I cut that out and got a piece of pipe to put in place of the cat to still have an exhaust system. Ran fine for a few miles, now its doing the same thing again. Exact same thing. So far I've taken out the cat, new pick up coil, new ignition module, new fuel pump, new fuel filter. Gives a code 12 and thats all. Check engine light has never came on at all.
I am getting frustrated as hell with this thing.....whats next on the list?
Throttle position sensor? Would that always throw a code when its bad?I guess the upside of all of this is I have spares for all of these parts now....
Heya 90blzr, been there done that. 
I put in a new motor, new tranny, all new sensors. I have spares for the next time it goes down. It can be a PITA to find a problem, especially if the initial problem doesn't throw any codes.
Don't give up....there is a ton of help on this site. If it wasn't for the friends and members here, I wouldn't be driving my Blazer now.
It could be a bad ground connection, or not enough juice to the oil sendor, just something that could be causing the fuel pump to shut off.
I'm going to get the WinALDL put on my laptop to help me further on my quest to make my 4x4 the best it can be.
Keep asking and posting......someone will always be here for ya.
I put in a new motor, new tranny, all new sensors. I have spares for the next time it goes down. It can be a PITA to find a problem, especially if the initial problem doesn't throw any codes.
Don't give up....there is a ton of help on this site. If it wasn't for the friends and members here, I wouldn't be driving my Blazer now.
It could be a bad ground connection, or not enough juice to the oil sendor, just something that could be causing the fuel pump to shut off.
I'm going to get the WinALDL put on my laptop to help me further on my quest to make my 4x4 the best it can be.
Keep asking and posting......someone will always be here for ya.
Still having the issue. Replaced the Throttle Positioning Sensor now and still the same thing. Also pulled off the throttle body, cleaned everything REAL good, blew it all out, cleaned the filters around the injectors, etc. Went for a drive. Same thing. Can get up to speed gradually and by manually shifting and EASE into it. First gear up to about 3500 rpm. second the same, etc then once in od, cant get above 2800 and it spits and sputters at anything of decent speed. Sometimes at just a steady throttle it will surge and spit and sputter then come out of it, then back to surging, etc. Sometimes feels like I am driving with the brake on. If I mash down on the gas while I am already driving it will cut out then down shift hard and go for about 3 seconds then suge and cut out again until I come down off the throttle. And still when its sitting in the driveway in park it runs as smooth as can be reving it up/down, hammer down, ease into it, doesnt matter, runs great at any rpm when in park. What would make it run good in park and not when its under load (in drive)??? And still not throwing out any codes.
I am hoping something I've said will make a light bulb go on in someones head, cause it sure isnt coming on for me.
Replaced: fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition module, ignition pickup coil, pressure regulator diaphram, throttle positioning sensor, cleaned throttle body, catalytic converter. Plugs, cap, rotor, wires and coil are fairly new also.
I am hoping something I've said will make a light bulb go on in someones head, cause it sure isnt coming on for me.
Replaced: fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition module, ignition pickup coil, pressure regulator diaphram, throttle positioning sensor, cleaned throttle body, catalytic converter. Plugs, cap, rotor, wires and coil are fairly new also.
Thunder
3/4 ton status
The only thing I can think of by your description is the MAF sensor. But they will usually throw a code
If the maf is bad you will usually have a good idle and it will run bad under a load.
Do you have a scanner or win ALDL ? It sure would help. Having a scanner can save you a ton of money. They wont always tell you what is wrong but they will tell you if componets/sensors are working properly so you dont needlessly replace them.
If the maf is bad you will usually have a good idle and it will run bad under a load.
Do you have a scanner or win ALDL ? It sure would help. Having a scanner can save you a ton of money. They wont always tell you what is wrong but they will tell you if componets/sensors are working properly so you dont needlessly replace them.
Thunder said:
Does this thing have a MAF sensor?? (mass air flow, right?) I've seen MAT and MAP sensor, but not MAF.........
what type of scanner should I pick up? Would they have it at autozone? I assume you mean something other than this: http://www.autozone.com/R,NONAPP23579/store,5715/initialAction,accessoryProductDetail/shopping/accessoryProductDetail.htm
I may as well pick one up as I am running out of sensors to replace
Thanks!!!
Pull the vacuum line off the EGR that comes from the EGR solenoid, and plug it. Go for a short drive and see if the problem is gone under load. If so, the problem is either the EGR soleniod or the EGR.
wheels87k5 said:
Plug the port off of the EGR valve itself and leave the solenoid end open? OR leave the EGR valve open and plug the solenoid end?
Also, should I be able to feel vacuum from the solenoid end or the valve end when the engine is running?
