So I can rebuild it why I am there.
That's like there temp storage spot. Going to put them to use a week or so after the bash.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Blazer's 85 Suburban "Twinkie"
- Thread starter kgblazerfive
- Start date
So I can rebuild it why I am there.
That's like there temp storage spot. Going to put them to use a week or so after the bash.
Here's a picture of my tool box
Some pics of the carnage from Pritchet.
Basically got stuck going up rocker knocker and had to winch past my rocker that I was stuck on any about a foot. Had they been sliders it would not have been an issue.
The body had shifted so going to have to fix that. Then it would be time to cut.
Driver door does not open or shut right now very well. Slams shut and have to beat on it to get it open.
The body had shifted so going to have to fix that. Then it would be time to cut.
Driver door does not open or shut right now very well. Slams shut and have to beat on it to get it open.
Got some more things to show will get pics tomorrow.
Time for some sliders, what ended up fixing your engine issue?
The last busurban I took up Pritchet that didn't have issues with doing Rocker Knocker the "right way" had about 6 more inches of lift and barely touched the rockers. You need boat sides and narrowing like you were talking about. Then maybe some sort of front axle wrap control since I watched the pinion move up and down several inches as well.
Twinkie did pretty damn good on a hard trail though.
Twinkie did pretty damn good on a hard trail though.
Engine issues was the tune, that somehow changed, once I took it off the trailer. Really not sure why or how but it seems to be doing alot better now.
Was that front or back Brandon ?
I noticed the front, the rear didn't have much but it was sliding really easy and didn't have much traction so no wrap.
Pritchett took out my driver tail light last year at BB. It's a real tough long trail for sure.
I say you just go with a bigger tire for more ground clearance and then do some simple sliders....
I say you just go with a bigger tire for more ground clearance and then do some simple sliders....
I have 40's already. Going to need some serious axle shaft upgrades if I go bigger then that.
Plan is for boat siding with sliders. How much narrower then stock I go is a yet to be determined idea.
Guess I will have to figure out a traction bar for the front. Not sure what or how but who knows.
Plan is for boat siding with sliders. How much narrower then stock I go is a yet to be determined idea.
Guess I will have to figure out a traction bar for the front. Not sure what or how but who knows.
What's your front axle set up with right now? I only did the normal 35 spline upgrade (non-chromo, just replacement d70 stock shafts I bought off amazon), stock inner shafts and just stock replacement axle u-joints, and ORD's drive flanges, other than that I have stock knuckles and steering in the stock location with just a lunchbox Spartan locker in the front, and so far it's lasted over a year on 44" boggers. I've never wheeled with you so I don't know if you beat real hard on your rig or not, but I usually will just back down and try a different line and not intentionally beat on my rig for no reason, so that may help me too. All I'm saying is that d60 with just a few simple/cheaper upgrades can handle more than what people think.
I think this narrowed burban is just screaming for bigger meats is the only reason why I mentioned it
My brother came up with a pretty neat front traction aid on his 2.5 ton jimmy. Are you running B-52's in the front? Cause he is too and his setup is really simple and seems pretty effective to limit front axle wrap (it doesn't eliminate it all, but it reduced it quite a bit). Let me find his build thread and I'll link it here...give me a sec
Edit: Here is a link to my brothers thread (should be on the page linked, towards the bottom of the page he describes what he did):
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/a-low-slung-old-chevy-on-rockwells-it-can-be-done.321365/page-6
Exactly what he did may not work exactly for you, but hopefully it will give you an idea. Like I said, this worked pretty well for him and was really cheap and easy to do
Last edited:
Please post the link in the traction bar thread too.
Am I blind?....I can't seem to find that thread??
I am running 56's up front. Axle wrap in the front has been the issue, maybe a bit more that I am locked in the front now. I will have to do some looking and measuring to see if I can fit anything like that in the front. The back I already have the stuff to make it just never have because it hasn't been an issue.
Thanks, just updated that thread with the link, if anyone cares
Yeah, my brother's is just one example. I've seen a couple dudes over on pirate4x4 who have made a more "traditional" looking wrap bar for the front that seemed to work pretty well too. I will say, at first with my 56's in the rear I didn't think I really needed a wrap bar, but decided to build one and it made a pretty big difference with wheel hop on up-hill climbs. Though I wasn't getting axle wrap, it still made a difference on the overall performance of the rig. I think it's worth spending the time to get the rear wrap bar on, and then start doing some research and measurements on the front to see what will work for your setup
Someone should start a front traction bar thread. I'm going to berunning 56's and I'm looking for ideas.
