bleeding hydro clutch - searched but diff q's??

[RootBreaker]

aight... so after searching I have come to the conclusion that you need to remove the slave cylinder from the bellhousing. now the only q I have is when I remove it and hold on an angle.... so bleeder is up.... break it open...

am I to expect the piston part to come out as it bleeds? just checking because I didnt see anything about that.... this week I will be bleeding it and I know that once you remove it that piece starts to come out some.... think that is how I got the air in there to begin with...

so got the truck back together.. just in time.. my patriot winch should ship today and be here this week... then bolt her in and go out and try and get my truck stuck


oh yeah.... took a while to get my tranny back in because this weekend was spent putting a 6" supercrap (superlift) lift on a 1998 chevy blazer (s10)
looks good... with 6" + 2" body + 1.5" shackle in rear.... just looks funny with 31's as he is going to do gears before the 34's go on....

http://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=75855

 

[readymix]

I just replaced my master last week and after going through a big bottle of DOT3 i searched here. Here is the answer you need.

First get a mity-vac.
put a piece of rubber hose on the slave bleeder and put the other end inside a new "full" bottle of DOT3.
Use the Mity-Vac to suck the fluid up to the resivior.

Took me about 5 minutes. Bleeding down did not work for me at all. Even with the slave removed. I even tried to gravity drain it for over an hour.

Whoever it was that posted that info originally....Thanks

 

[RootBreaker]

I just replaced my master last week and after going through a big bottle of DOT3 i searched here. Here is the answer you need.

First get a mity-vac.
put a piece of rubber hose on the slave bleeder and put the other end inside a new "full" bottle of DOT3.
Use the Mity-Vac to suck the fluid up to the resivior.

Took me about 5 minutes. Bleeding down did not work for me at all. Even with the slave removed. I even tried to gravity drain it for over an hour.

Whoever it was that posted that info originally....Thanks

sweet dude.. where do you get a mity-vac? local store? hmm time to search google......

 

[readymix]

Got mine at sears

 

[dyeager535]

Piston is held in with a snap ring, the "pushrod" is held in place with the rubber boot.

Try bleeding it normally without tools before buying anything for it IMO. I have done a couple now, and neither time have I needed anything more than to lay under the truck and do it by hand.

I know some people have problems, others don't.

 

[RootBreaker]

Got mine at sears

after looking at what he posted... I already have one....

anyhow... talking to a guy at work he said there is a better way...
goto parts store and they sell a large surringe....(sp?)
put a hose on the front.... and PUSH the fluid... so suck fluid out of the resivour, discard old fluid, fill surringe, crack bleeder and push fluid up. He said his dirtbike has a hydro clutch and hydro brake and this is the best way he has found.... quick, easy and great..... yes I know my truck aint no dirtbike but think ill give that a try....

 

[Burt4x4]

I just went thru this too.
With my setup I had to have someone push the pedal down and hold it. THen I cracked open the line at the Master, psssppspsssst air comes out..tighten...let foot off clutch pedal. Repeat until no more pppsssssssst. Make sure the resavour doesn't empty.
I did the same with the slave bleeder and finnaly got all the air out.

I first tried pumping the pedal but that didn't work..Just one push down then bleed..tighten...let go of pedal...push down one time and hold...crack-it..repeat...

I have a Mighty-Vac too but it just wasn't doing the trick...could have been me so who knows..

Anyway.. Just my 02c...
Burt

 

[RootBreaker]

I feel like an eyesss now.....

I had a friend over to help me bleed it last night... well I was told to bleed the master first.... so I got my friend to push the clutch in and I broke the hard line open.... we did that for a few pumps till I realized something...

when I put the new clutch pedal assembly in.. there is 2 rods.. that go down from the pedal assembly, through the firewall that the master bolts to.... well guess what.. I thought I tightened both up... got a wrench and it seemed a little tight but still turned... after about a few minutes of tightenting and it not getting tighter... I realized that the bolt that goes through the cab is turning... had my bud hold it with channel locks... then I tightened it all up and now we are good.. seems that when you push the clutch in the master was rocking on its side pushing about 1/4" away from the cab

feels much better now but didnt test drive it.... but I have a better pedal now.... now to get the 140 alt upgrade done so I can test it....


somethimes captain obvious needs a swift kick in the arse