Man what a nice blazer to blow some snow. Couldnt you have boughten a rusty one
Should be cool though
Should be cool though
CK5
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Blower Blazer Build
- Thread starter Maverick4x4
- Start date
Maverick4x4
Registered Member
Man what a nice blazer to blow some snow. Couldnt you have boughten a rusty one
Should be cool though
I was looking for rusty when I found this one for the same price due to the mismatched axles. I hope it will be ok driving around on the mountain.
I'll trade you mine, already got the lift and 35's lol
magik235
Still Alive
I will be following your build. I have debated converting to a blower setup. This is a portion of what I plow.
Maverick4x4
Registered Member
Haha, I know you have salt; I just wasnt sure of the way in which the DOT treated the roads.. For that matter, what are your plowing practices? The reason I ask is because you mentioned flotation tires which "usually" isnt synonymous with plowing at least in the north east. The classic plow truck is like a 70 some odd ford f250 w co-op grip spurs or something like that.. Not knowing any better I guess I'd vote for, maybe if they still make them, some classic buckshot Q78s; I think they have stud holes. I know you said you run chains but the addition of studs cant hurt... We ice race up in the mid coast region where I'm from and we use to get some "take off" winter rally tires but then we found these tires called "black rockets" which are a narrow, deep, radical ice tire; they work boss in most race conditions...Anyway.....A little long winded sorry.... We sourced some studs like the ones that came in the black rockets but longer and they DIG like sum-bitches
Maybe a combination of narrow buckshot type tire and long studs would work like
We usually drive 100-150 miles on bare tar (stud heat) carefully to seat the studs to the rubber, this way they have less of a tendency to pull while spinning...
Pic; Black Rocktes and "special" unlimmited class tires.....
Those are sick tires! Unfortunately, I think that would leave me with 4 narrow holes (based on how quick and easily I dug 4 holes several times the last couple years with "flotation" tires). To be fair, that was usually in 1 of 3 situations: 1- churning through crusted/compacted snow with or without a layer of fluffy "dry" snow, 2- trying to push the plow, getting stopped and digging down, or 3- waiting too long between/after storms and it's just too much for the jeep. Jeep just wasn't heavy enough, not enough momentum. It would be interesting to try the jeep on skinnies; maybe the flotation killed it's forward traction.
I don't really have any plowing practices, other than the last couple years in my driveway with the lightweight jeep (mentioned above), but do have a bit of snow-wheelin' experience in many different vehicles. And yes, out here skinnies are also the preferred plow tire.
The problem up on the mountain is that there is no bottom. On the cleared, main roads, with packed snow, those ice tires would rock, as do the blizzaks, AT KO's and of course, anything with chains on it. Anywhere the snow is a few inches deep, big tires and chains have done better, for me anyway. I'm gonna be doing my driveway (gravel over clay), my road, shown a couple posts above, and another similar road, both of which have a wanna-be base over clay. On very few occasions have I been able to completely clear the drive without spending HOURS, with either the plow or walk behind blower. A couple times I just paid one of the blowers to come over and blow it out. $50 later we could drive in and out without needing chains.
If my road and driveway haven't been cleared for a few days since a storm, the road is just steep enough that even with chains on my eXcursion (305/70r16) or Stupercrew (275/65r18) it's a pretty good workout to get up the hill...and then turning into the drive is a gamble, cuz the snow can drift and or melt/compact unevenly and suddenly you're draggin' bottom and it's a quick decision between Hammer Down and Cut Your Losses. The big jeep with chained up 39's doesn't much care.
How does this translate to running a blower? I don't know. In theory, you're cuttin' a clear path and the tires should have good traction. In reality, you sometimes have to turn around and get situated and/or go up a section before you can blow coming back down.
Everyone on the mountain that already has a blower is either running it on a skidsteer (chained up) or a big tractor (monster tires, chained up). Nobody has a truck mounted blower. There are a couple guys with pickups and plows (exactly the F250 you described above) running all sorts of different tires. Big to small.
I love the old Grip Spurs and have looked at the Q78 buckshots and super swampers. Seems like a good size. I just scored some 17" rims though...maybe I could just sell them for some 16's. Dunno yet. Interested in others experiences in similar situations.
Attached pic is near the bottom of my road after the eX spent the night in the ditch. I'd slid into it before, but could always back down and pop out at the bottom. What I didn't know, is that the blower tractor had slid into the ditch a few days earlier, and churned his way back down, his 40+" tires making it a lot deeper than my little 33's could handle. I found that out when he came over and pulled me out.
Maverick4x4
Registered Member
I will be following your build. I have debated converting to a blower setup. This is a portion of what I plow.
That's a nice looking set up! Love the ol' 5! Looks like it does a pretty good job.
Maverick4x4
Registered Member
Ok, here's what I came online to post tonight before I got into the tire thing.
Spent some time on Saturday cleaning off the axles and installing the lockright in the sf14. Stupid passenger side c-clip gave me a fit.
The plow mount arrived today, packed tighter than Fort Knox. Burned two pocket knives and a box cutter getting it open. Still need to go find some Western Ultramount wiring kits.
Spent some time on Saturday cleaning off the axles and installing the lockright in the sf14. Stupid passenger side c-clip gave me a fit.
The plow mount arrived today, packed tighter than Fort Knox. Burned two pocket knives and a box cutter getting it open. Still need to go find some Western Ultramount wiring kits.
Maverick4x4
Registered Member
Oh ya, I snapped a pic yesterday while the sun was still shining. The presence of the blazer brightened what is typically a sad moment for our family each fall: the installation of the jeep soft top. Ah well, hopefully many happy snowmobiling and snow-wheeling memories will be made before the top is again removed, folded in flannel sheets and tucked away for another glorious, topless fun in the sun summertime. Sigh.
Anyway, the blaze has a non-typical tail high stance, in spite of having a 3-leaf front (Snowplow package? Stock in '90?). I can't tell if the rear pack has an add-a-leaf or not (2nd spring looks different, but still stock).
Anyway, the blaze has a non-typical tail high stance, in spite of having a 3-leaf front (Snowplow package? Stock in '90?). I can't tell if the rear pack has an add-a-leaf or not (2nd spring looks different, but still stock).
Maverick4x4
Registered Member
No progress this week, too busy at work. Haven't even been able to websurf.
Got some snow on the mountain already, it will melt but more is coming...so I'm a little nervous about getting this all together by the end of November. Right now I'm leaning towards Tuff Country HD front springs and a rear shackle flip and rear CV shaft, though it seems the t-case lowering spacer might have to be used due to time constraints.
What is typically done on the front? Spacer?
Or not...I may just end up with no lift at all this season, and simply running a 31" or 32" tire with chains.
The weird thing is that it already sits a little higher than stock. Gonna get some underneath pics and post them up.
Got some snow on the mountain already, it will melt but more is coming...so I'm a little nervous about getting this all together by the end of November. Right now I'm leaning towards Tuff Country HD front springs and a rear shackle flip and rear CV shaft, though it seems the t-case lowering spacer might have to be used due to time constraints.
What is typically done on the front? Spacer?
Or not...I may just end up with no lift at all this season, and simply running a 31" or 32" tire with chains.
The weird thing is that it already sits a little higher than stock. Gonna get some underneath pics and post them up.
Maverick4x4
Registered Member
Some pics of the underside.
I'm trying to figure out if the rear has an add-a-leaf added, or if, suddenly, in 1990, after 20 years of making tail-dragging half-ton trucks, Chevy suddenly decided to fix the problem. Doubt it.
The 2nd leaf seems to be an add-a-leaf, making 5 leaves plus overload.
Moving to the front, I know that some "heavy" 1/2ton pickups came with a 3-leaf front; I didn't know that blazers did. Is there a plow package? RPO VYU? I'll have to check the codes. The 3pack doesn't seem to be doing much. I added a 3rd leaf to my '74 and it sat pretty flat, even holding up a 396.
There's no obvious evidence that this formerly had a plow on it, but I could take a closer look.
Also, the pic of the transfercase output shows the slipyoke to be a little extended, indicating to me that it's not at stock height.
I think that this weekend will be "install axles time", whether or not I lift it.
I'm trying to figure out if the rear has an add-a-leaf added, or if, suddenly, in 1990, after 20 years of making tail-dragging half-ton trucks, Chevy suddenly decided to fix the problem. Doubt it.
The 2nd leaf seems to be an add-a-leaf, making 5 leaves plus overload.
Moving to the front, I know that some "heavy" 1/2ton pickups came with a 3-leaf front; I didn't know that blazers did. Is there a plow package? RPO VYU? I'll have to check the codes. The 3pack doesn't seem to be doing much. I added a 3rd leaf to my '74 and it sat pretty flat, even holding up a 396.
There's no obvious evidence that this formerly had a plow on it, but I could take a closer look.
Also, the pic of the transfercase output shows the slipyoke to be a little extended, indicating to me that it's not at stock height.
I think that this weekend will be "install axles time", whether or not I lift it.
magik235
Still Alive
What you're seeing is the 'travel' of the slip yoke in and out through the 'bumps' the suspension sees. 5 plus O/L in the rear is stock, three up front is common enough too, although a lot came with just two. My 90 had a three leaf pack up front too.
Maverick4x4
Registered Member
Huh, maybe Chevy DID figure it out.
Just found a 6" lift kit and a 4" kit in the local ads. Both include front and rear springs. The 4" is $500 and includes U-bolts and shocks. The 6" is a lot less, front and rear springs, but no shocks...and may be too tall for me.
Sheee-it, for $500 you could get a new "kit" with shocks in a 4-6" flavor. I paid $200 for a 4", front springs, rear blocks, all new U-bolts. Shackle flip can be done for 'free' in the rear, if you're 'inclined'.
Maverick4x4
Registered Member
I'd love to find such a kit for $200, or even $300. Best price locally is around $650, which is why I was lookin' used. I figure shocks will be $150 to $200. Steering arm, brake lines, etc. It adds up pretty fast.
lectric80
3/4 ton status
Keep your eyes on the classifieds here, you may find a lift that someone else is removing for less than what the kit you are looking at is. 6" is going to require driveshaft modifications, while a 4" varies as to whether you will have to do it.
By the way, nice Blazer, loving the look so far and the work you are doing.
By the way, nice Blazer, loving the look so far and the work you are doing.
Maverick4x4
Registered Member
Good points, and thanks!
By a stroke of luck, the guy I bought the axles from sent me a text today asking if I wanted to buy the 4" lift that was with the axles (springs, blocks, arm, etc) for $150. Score!!! Just need to find some shocks and U-bolts.
Brett
4" lift shocks cheep and easy http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255835&highlight=super+duty
ubolts from local spring shop made to order . or try offroad design .
p.s. how did you like that otherguy on the other site blowin smoke on wrong info. and he thinks he is still correct after i proved him wrog with pics ?
ubolts from local spring shop made to order . or try offroad design .
p.s. how did you like that otherguy on the other site blowin smoke on wrong info. and he thinks he is still correct after i proved him wrog with pics ?
Maverick4x4
Registered Member
Ya, that was nice. Pics tell the tale.
I thought about it a bunch last night, carefully considering the difference between getting around up there on 31's vs 35's, which is what is driving the decision on the lift kit. I just think about the ease and confidence I have in the scrambler vs ANY other vehicle I've been in. In the scrambler (chained up 39's) it's like, "what snow?"
If I can find some 9-16's that would rock, but even old school mud-terrains or swampers would work. The chains take care of the ice/packed snow issues, and the tire size/diameter will help keep me from getting buried.
Found 4" shocks at Autozone for $34 and U-bolts at a local place that sells lift kits. And not much more than if I go get them made to order at the local spring shop. btdt too many times. By the time I take all the measurements, drive out there, wait around, drive back, I could have made some easy money at work listening to tunes.
Looks like an axle swapping, blaza-liftin' weekend. Hope the snow holds off 'til Sunday. Maybe I'll have to play hooky on Friday.
My neighbor with the blower called me last night, she's taking it to the shop to fix the high-idle switch, won't let me pay her 'til it's running perfect. Sweet!
I thought about it a bunch last night, carefully considering the difference between getting around up there on 31's vs 35's, which is what is driving the decision on the lift kit. I just think about the ease and confidence I have in the scrambler vs ANY other vehicle I've been in. In the scrambler (chained up 39's) it's like, "what snow?"
If I can find some 9-16's that would rock, but even old school mud-terrains or swampers would work. The chains take care of the ice/packed snow issues, and the tire size/diameter will help keep me from getting buried.
Found 4" shocks at Autozone for $34 and U-bolts at a local place that sells lift kits. And not much more than if I go get them made to order at the local spring shop. btdt too many times. By the time I take all the measurements, drive out there, wait around, drive back, I could have made some easy money at work listening to tunes.
Looks like an axle swapping, blaza-liftin' weekend. Hope the snow holds off 'til Sunday. Maybe I'll have to play hooky on Friday.
My neighbor with the blower called me last night, she's taking it to the shop to fix the high-idle switch, won't let me pay her 'til it's running perfect. Sweet!
lectric80
3/4 ton status
Not sure where you are, but I know the last I saw the Wasatch was supposed to get hit Saturday and more on Sunday afternoon.
