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Blower Blazer Build

Maverick4x4 said:
No tires yet, so I went and borrowed some 8-lug rollers from a friend this morning. Also noticed that the blazer was running out of gas last time I drove it through the neighborhood, so I stopped and filled up 3 gas cans. Damn ethanol. Gotta find somewhere that doesn't sell it so I can start buying gas for the snowmobiles (99% of the reason I'm building this blazer)
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http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=UT

This is a good site to find "non-ethanol" gas in each state. I do believe that beginning Nov 1st, it is federally required to have ethanol for the winter months (at least here in the Rockies). So I'm thinking you are out of luck for the snowmobiles......

I found a station in Denver and thought I would fill up the boat before winterizing. Missed it by about 2 days! The owner did tell me though that he see a LOT of really nice cars! Porsche, Ferrari, etc...
 
Hi Jeff,

Thanks for the link. Looks like the one in SLC is iffy, changes week by week. I usually keep 3-4 jugs in the back of the truck, I'll just play it by ear.

35" tires and 2.5" of lift? Sounds like a good combination, I'm wondering if I should have done that. Mine is a little (lot) higher than planned. I need to measure to see if it will still fit through the garage door.

Brett
 
Actually the ethanol 10% mix has been required nationwide for more than a year. Each refiner must certify that 10% of the output is mixed with ethanol. This is not a state by state thing, it is a federal mandate, although I know some states sought waivers for it. I don't know if any state was successful in actually getting a waiver. It was phased in, but it was a nationwide requirement.

Maverick, you have probably seen the signs on nearly every gas pump in the state. It's the ones that say "This fuel may contain up to 10% ethanol". Unless I get a tank of true 10%, I usually don't see much of a difference. I do exclusively use Maverick for gas though, so it may just be luck. I have had a tank of 10% once in my Blazer, and I lost 5 MPG on that tank. Went from an average of 13.9 on that trip (5 of 6 tanks) to like 9. I do my best to avoid it, but the fed has made that very hard to do.
 
Maverick4x4 said:
Hi Jeff,

Thanks for the link. Looks like the one in SLC is iffy, changes week by week. I usually keep 3-4 jugs in the back of the truck, I'll just play it by ear.

35" tires and 2.5" of lift? Sounds like a good combination, I'm wondering if I should have done that. Mine is a little (lot) higher than planned. I need to measure to see if it will still fit through the garage door.

Brett
Click to expand...

I was actually surprised about the 2.5" too. When I got the truck, it had 37" tires on it and, what I thought, was a 4" or 6" lift.....just based on the tire size. I went to a local 4wd shop and his best guess was at least a 4". The 37's rubbed all the time so I went to 35's. Much better!

After rebuilding everything up front, I decided to get some new springs b/c I thought I could smooth out the ride a bit more. So I ordered up a pair of 2.5" BDS softride springs and 1" zero rates. I was thinking that 3.5" in front would be close to the 4" total lift. After installing everything, the front end sat up too high so I pulled out the zero rates.

So, after all that, I discovered I only had a 2.5" lift! I wouldn't want to go any higher...for sure!

Oh, and mine fit into my garage with 35's and 37's......Barely!

On the gas ethanol, it may be mandated federally for the winter blend but as far as I can tell from my conversation a month or two ago with the gas station owner, they do have 100% gas during the summer (no ethanol).
 
If there is ethanol in the fuel, it has to say it on the pump.

Martin
 
82355 said:
If there is ethanol in the fuel, it has to say it on the pump.

Martin
Click to expand...

That's the problem. Nearly ALL the pumps I see say "up to 10% ethanol". Found one the other day that didn't say it. Dunno if I trust it. It was a no brand station, which means it gets gas from the lowest bidder.

Back to the coca-blaza: I need longer front brake lines. And probably new calipers. The bleeds are frozen, so first I'll try and replace them with new ones and bleed the system. The front calipers and lines didn't get removed with the swap/lift so they should have been ok, but the brakes still mostly suck. Need to jack up the back and adjust the brakes by hand and see if that helps too. Rear brakes bled good, e-brake works.

Haven't had a chance to work on it. Spent the weekend at the cabin with family, many hours snowblowing 2' of settled snow (was like concrete). Broke multiple shear pins on the Troybilt 5.5hp 24" snowblower.

Had massive winds (90-100mph) here in the last 24 hours, here being a roughly 50 mile wide corridor running across the state, NE to SW, just north of SLC, and the cabin is in that corridor.

Hope to get some done this weekend (if the cabin is ok)
 
That's odd. In Nebraska every gas station has pumps with Ethanol, and without Ethanol.

Martin
 
As I said, some states did do work to do waivers, and there is the other part of that. Notice I said that 10% of the refineries output must be mixed with ethanol, some refineries have found that they can split their production. If they produce 10k gallons a day, only 1k have to be mixed with ethanol. Unfortunately here, with the possible exception of boat stations, the refiners just mix with everything but none of it tends to come out as true 10%.
 
Brake question time. 1990 blazer with 1990 burb 3/4ton axles (in case you just joined us)

I assumed that the calipers from the blazer 10bolt would work on the burb 10bolt. They bolt on just fine. The autoparts sites show them as different. I can see how the pads might be different with a larger diameter rotor, didn't know the calipers were.

Also seeing that the 3/4ton burbs of '90 had different master cylinders than the blazers of '90.

There are a few options for a master cylinder from a '90 burb. If my axles are 10bolt front, semi-floating 9.5" 14bolt rear (sf14 is what I call it), then is that the 8400gvwr 11-5/16" drum set up? What size bore? My blazer has the rear anti-lock, I believe.

As I mentioned above, I figured the blazer calipers should work on either 10-bolt, and the blazer master cylinder should work with the blazer calipers. Haven't bled the front and adjusted the brakes yet (post #66), the question came up when I was sourcing new calipers just in case I needed to replace them.
 
same pads front just bigger pistion dia in the true 3/4 ton calipers. and 1/2 and 3/4 ton calipers can bolt on each other .

rear wheel cylinders are a little bigger possibly over the 10 bolt 1/2 ton stuff.

the bigger master is for the more volume needed for true 3/4 ton calipers on the front and little on the rear also.

some guys need to swap some dont. test drive it and see what ya think of the brakes.
 
I know why the body is in such good shape, its because of the massive oil leaks :deal: :screwy:

I was kinda hoping for a big block and supercharger but the snow blower deal is pretty cool. How are the rotors powered? Is it off of a PTO or a separate engine?
 
Hahaha, ya it had a protective coating. The rear pinion had a massive leak...I wonder if there's any lube left inside? Only too happy to swap it out.

Sorry for the letdown on the thread title. Snowblowin' Blazer?

This thread is also on a couple other forums (more or less) but you guys are the only ones that login expecting to see an 8-71 strapped onto a stroked big block. (I think I just wet myself).
 
Need some quick help: Is there an OEM brake line that is longer than the stock front brake lines that I can use? The local 4x4 shops are gonna be closed before I can get there and I wanna work on this thing tomorrow.

Thanks!
 
88-up ifs style trucks and 2wd or 4wd is little longer. best to pull yours new at the store then ask for the 88-95ish in 2wd and 4wd and see what you need.

or years ago i did 6" lift and bump stops were gone for years. so i cut the frame bracket off by the 2 rivits for the hose. then bolted it to the bump stop area and redid the hard lines down to that. never had a problem .

but you and 4" lift and heavy blower i think longer = best . :thumb:
 
Thanks!

Longer also better cuz it'll be doin' Moab & other trails around Utah.

Brett
 
Excellent info, thanks guys! Exactly what I was hoping for.

Hoping to get the frame mount on today.
 
Pretty good day on the blazer. It will now pass inspection and drives 100% better.

Adjusted the brakes, got a battery hold down, new wipers, blinkers, etc.

After going back and forth on options, I embraced controversy and installed a spacer kit to lower the t-case. I know it's not the best, but it will work for now, and made an amazing difference. It appears that a CV will require cutting the perches and rotating the pumpkin, not something I can really do right now.

While my son was installing the spacers, I pulled the front tow hooks. They will not work with the plow mount, so they are for sale. Got a count on the bolts needed for the mount and went and bought them. Ran out of daylight to mock up the mount and drill the new holes.

Also have the list required for the Western/Fisher components required to attach and operate the Ultramount lift and lights, I'll pull the trigger on the parts purchase early next week.

Lastly, I need the bolts for the front driveshaft flange mount to the transfercase. What is the size? My plan was to head down to 6-States Disributors next week.

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