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Blower motor mod

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GalDemSuga

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I'm wondering if it is possible to modify my blower motor so that it may spin faster in all speed settings. My entire AC system is new but it doesnt circulate around the truck as I'd like it to. Any ideas folks:D?
 
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GalDemSuga said:
I'm wondering if it is possible to modify my blower motor so that it may spin faster in all speed settings. My entire AC system is new but it doesnt circulate around the truck as I'd like it to. Any ideas folks:D?
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I am interested too. My fan isn't that great. Only 1/2 of the top vent blows air? :doah:

Like, literally, the left half has no air flow out of it. Something must be caught in the tube. Just haven't pulled it apart yet.

But it rocks to have A/C again!
 
The problem with moving the air too fast over the cooling/heating coils is that it won't be in contact with said coils long enough to effectively change the temperature. You'll move more air, but the temperature won't be as cool or warm as you'd like.

You say the whole system is new... does that include all the vent hoses/pipes? Make sure there aren't any major leaks (there's some leaks from the factory, but I mean check to see if anything was disconnected).

Edit: Is it a K5 or pickup, Sub?? That's one thing that sucks. The same heat/air system is used for all three. Given that the interior space on each is progressively bigger, the system will have to work much harder on a K5 than a single cab pickup.
 
jonrpick said:
The problem with moving the air too fast over the cooling/heating coils is that it won't be in contact with said coils long enough to effectively change the temperature. You'll move more air, but the temperature won't be as cool or warm as you'd like.

You say the whole system is new... does that include all the vent hoses/pipes? Make sure there aren't any major leaks (there's some leaks from the factory, but I mean check to see if anything was disconnected).
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The new parts are the compressor, evaporator, condensor,blower motor relay, ac selector switch and receiver/dryer.

I see what you mean about the air moving too fast over the evaporator. With the truck at an idle I'm getting 40degrees at the vent. I believe it may get cooler as I drive. I just want to move more air. It just isnt getting around the entire cab. My dog is overheating when he's behind the rear seat.
 
GalDemSuga said:
The new parts are the compressor, evaporator, condensor,blower motor relay, ac selector switch and receiver/dryer.

I see what you mean about the air moving too fast over the evaporator. With the truck at an idle I'm getting 40degrees at the vent. I believe it may get cooler as I drive. I just want to move more air. It just isnt getting around the entire cab. My dog is overheating when he's behind the rear seat.
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One thing that may help... crack the vent window open, just a little.

In my work van, I've noticed the A/C works MUCH better when I crack the window a hair. It lets the hot air escape. You want to have the selector switch set to A/C, and not "Max". Max recirculates the air in the cab. If you don't set it to recirculate, it'll just draw in fresh, cold air, and simultaneously push out the hot air.

This works on my van (2008 Chevy Express) even when I'm sitting still. It's quite noticeable.

You said "rear seat", so I assume it's a Blazer... Do you have sliding rear windows on the top? You could slightly crack one open to help draw the hot air out the back as the cold air comes in through the front.
 
GalDemSuga said:
The new parts are the compressor, evaporator, condensor,blower motor relay, ac selector switch and receiver/dryer.

I see what you mean about the air moving too fast over the evaporator. With the truck at an idle I'm getting 40degrees at the vent. I believe it may get cooler as I drive. I just want to move more air. It just isnt getting around the entire cab. My dog is overheating when he's behind the rear seat.
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you know... i had a 89 s10 blazer with your desribed issues and i found that the vacumm doors were not opening all the way and sealing enough when open and i had a air leak at the motor housing and my ducting inside the dash had a bunch of small leaks ..... i would try using a/c tape at the duct seams just like they do in houses and check all your flap doors ... you should notice a big difference and i will second the comment on contact time with the coils ... ever notice how when your fan is on low the air at the fan is fridgid and its just cold when blowing at a high speed ...
 
75GmcJimmy4x4 said:
you know... i had a 89 s10 blazer with your desribed issues and i found that the vacumm doors were not opening all the way and sealing enough when open and i had a air leak at the motor housing and my ducting inside the dash had a bunch of small leaks ..... i would try using a/c tape at the duct seams just like they do in houses and check all your flap doors ... you should notice a big difference and i will second the comment on contact time with the coils ... ever notice how when your fan is on low the air at the fan is fridgid and its just cold when blowing at a high speed ...
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i disassembled the box on the firewall that houses the evaporator and examined the vent door movement between hot and cold. it all works great. i couldn'd find any air leaks under the dash.

as suggested in the previous post i will crack open the sliding windows on the top.
 
GalDemSuga said:
i disassembled the box on the firewall that houses the evaporator and examined the vent door movement between hot and cold. it all works great. i couldn'd find any air leaks under the dash.

as suggested in the previous post i will crack open the sliding windows on the top.
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another major help would be tinting the windows with good quality window tint with the highest heat rejection rating you can find.....
 
GalDemSuga said:
I wonder if a blower motor and relay from a newer Chevy would improve volume?
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you know you may be on to something here with the newer motor anyway .. but the one in my 75 puts out hella volume .. have you inspected the blower impeller for broken fins?
 
GM obviously made different motors, since AC/HD heat moves more air than the non-AC setups.

I'd be surprised if the trucks didn't get the most powerful motors though, as noise was less a concern, and the interior volume on a Suburban or K5 is much larger than any car I can think of, short of maybe the later Caprice wagons.

I would assume the motor theory is no different than any other electric motor, they can be designed to turn faster or slower, just not sure if you can modify these easily. I bet someone does.
 
dyeager535 said:
GM obviously made different motors, since AC/HD heat moves more air than the non-AC setups.

I'd be surprised if the trucks didn't get the most powerful motors though, as noise was less a concern, and the interior volume on a Suburban or K5 is much larger than any car I can think of, short of maybe the later Caprice wagons.

I would assume the motor theory is no different than any other electric motor, they can be designed to turn faster or slower, just not sure if you can modify these easily. I bet someone does.
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I'd sure like to find someone who has modified this stock setup:)
 
First things first. Pull the blower out and make sure the plenum isn't full of pine needles or something. Make sure the motor turns freely and the blower is attached correctly to the motor shaft. Then look at your blend and recirc doors and make sure they move correctly and seal correctly. If some vents work and other don't you either have foreign objects in the system or one of the parts isn't working right.

Check the voltage at the motor on high speed. There could be a wiring issue preventing full voltage from reaching it. Once that's done it might be worth looking at the motor itself. You might find a bigger one on another vehicle or need to replace it.

And if the A/C itself isn't very cold, that's another issue...

Oh, BTW, I don't buy that line that more air flow will not provide better cooling.
 
dyeager535 said:
I would assume the motor theory is no different than any other electric motor, they can be designed to turn faster or slower, just not sure if you can modify these easily. I bet someone does.
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Winding motors is not easy. I would just look for a different one that can be made to work. The resistors for speed control wouldn't work right anymore though (every speed would be slower than before, except for HI). This would have to be re-worked or another sort of motor speed controller would have to be retrofitted.
 
kind of a crazy idea but, what if you spliced off one of your a/c vents and ran another one to the back of the cab. use some tubing or your roll cage if you have one...haha sounds like something i would do.


and as far as the moving the air too fast to cool it. its possible. the easiest explaination is to light a candle and run your hand over the flame fast and you will feel little to no heat. run it slow and you might have to goto the doctor after. its the same case with the A/C cooling the air. it has to remain there long enough to cool down. thermodynamics 101
 
ScottMH said:
and as far as the moving the air too fast to cool it. its possible. the easiest explaination is to light a candle and run your hand over the flame fast and you will feel little to no heat. run it slow and you might have to goto the doctor after. its the same case with the A/C cooling the air. it has to remain there long enough to cool down. thermodynamics 101
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Is heat output from the candle any different regardless of how long anything is in contact with it? More, warmer air, or less, colder air?
 
ScottMH said:
kind of a crazy idea but, what if you spliced off one of your a/c vents and ran another one to the back of the cab. use some tubing or your roll cage if you have one...haha sounds like something i would do.
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Tapping into an ac duct with another vent willl lower the output pressure.....
 
dyeager535 said:
Is heat output from the candle any different regardless of how long anything is in contact with it? More, warmer air, or less, colder air?
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no the heat output is the same. however, what we are discussing is the transfer of the thermal energy. no doubt the area around the coil is very cold. but, A/C system work by having a coil that is very cold and passing air through it. as the air passes through it cold is transfered to the air. thus cooling it. if you increase the rate at which the air passes through the coils then the air will move too quickly for the cold to be transfered effeciently. it may have cooled it some but not as much as it had at the slower speed.

dhcomp said:
Tapping into an ac duct with another vent willl lower the output pressure.....
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very true. modern yukons have some kind of rear a/c system. i dont know exactly how it works. it may have two coils. but thats where i got the idea from. it would be interesting to dissect one of those systems and retrofit it to our old school trucks and suvs
 
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