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Bobbielift users... what problems have you experienced

camiswelding

camiswelding

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I was playing around on the lathe today and I made some aluminum body pucks... 2.5 inch... Im going to stick them in my parts box as a "maybe use" for the cummins conversion on my 1989 v3500... some people use them for cummins conversions to get the motor in a sweet spot.. other people trim stuff ( I prefer not trimming unless I have to)

I know the following things will need to be addressed...

radiator shroud... (fabbing it wider) ( In the cummins conversion with a crysuukler radiator it all changes anyway)

the steering shaft (needs to be lengthened) Im going to do the u-joint conversion/no rag so I can address this then....

check for wiring pulls... battery cables etc etc etc...

automatic shift linkage (lengthen)

Are there any problems associated with these kits used on a crewcab (with poly mounts in new condition) that anyone has run across... truck is a dd/ puller...wont ever be used in any extreme off road stuff...

thanks

cam
 
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Transfer case shifter. Since the shifter is mounted on the body, it severely affects it. You can adjust the shifter rod, but I still had problems. I think your truck has a 205, in which case you'll be fine but with 208 and 241 body mounted shifters, if you dont lengthen the rod the shifter will be pulling on the shift fork all the time and ware out the pads on the fork. Bad juju.
 
You will have to disconnect all of your wiring harness hangers...when you install the body lift. I am sure when you actually install the 2.5" body lift, you will be lifting the body higher than 2.5" to install the pucks under the body. If you do not disconnect the wiring harness hangers, then you could shred some of your wiring. Not to mention anything else that has some kind of hanger or routing type hook.
 
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I agree... excellent suggestion... make everything loose...

does anyone know for sure about the steering shaft... can the original one with the rag joint be used until I do the u joint conversion?

thanks
 
so what's the trick with the shifter for a NP208 t-case, when you do a 3" lift??:confused: I would like to do this lift soon but want no bad issues...I want to do it right the first time...a 3'' body lift was a piece of cake on my 83 'yota, wish it was this simple on my 79 K10:laugh:
 
surpip said:
Boby lift huh?
you gettin some british guy to help you?:whistle:
Click to expand...

No no no ... not a BOBBY lift, that's a typo for a BOOBY LIFT ... which means this post should be in the Pig Pen. :haha:

-- A
 
does anyone know for sure about the steering shaft... can the original one with the rag joint be used until I do the u joint conversion?
Click to expand...

I think there is supposed to be some kind of steel pin in a GM steering shaft that you can drill out to allow more length in the shaft. Do a search on Google and Pirate 4x4 on it because I remember reading some type of body lift tech article on this.
 
The steering shaft will have 2 plastic pins that you drill out. It will probably be siezed together and require heat and hammer to get to slide out. You drill a new hole to put a screw or pin or whatever. The brakelines will stretch enough to not worry about.
 
Once agian the CK5 anti-body lift association is gathered!!! Every time same stuff. I have been running a 3 inch BL for four years, and love it. Never broke anything never had a problem and it has not been babied.

2883479119315wgXBom_ph.jpg


2883May01_07.JPG
 
Cam, off topic: can you make more of these body lifts to sell? I'm looking to have a set of them made from 6061-T6 billet and would gladly pay to have some blocks made.
 
yeah me too. i love ord aluminum ones but no one makes any bigger
 
actually dale ,, I meant to say boobie lift... thats oklahomelian for body lift... and from the way you talk about women there some of them need cranes for their boobie lifts!!!!

:-)


As to the spacers
Wes..et al
Let me post up some pics of my finished ones before you all want some from me

I dont know if I am good enough to make it pay for itself other than the one offs Im doing...I have a new appreciation for machine work... I think by the end of doing them I could probably do one in 15 minutes if I was organized and hustled
I think that ORD selling them for like 5 bucks each is really fair...if thats what they are,,I havent priced them in awhile

I made mine from 6061 t6... I bought a 39" 2.5 in diameter slug rem for roughly 55.00.... you need roughly 1/8 to 1/4 inch for machining them true and square...if anyone could buy it cheaper then it might pay.,,,
this is how I did it,,, and Im no machinist so Im sure there may be more efficient ways

1) Cut them to about 2 3/4 in lengths on a carbide tipped chop saw... I was amazed that it did it but it wasnt hard at all,,,I just went slow... I decided to use this over a vertical bandsaw or horizontal bandsaw or using a parting tool on the lathe... this got them dimensionally pretty close

2) Chucked them up.. center drilled them, drilled them for nice fit

3) faced one side, used a file to get a nice lip radius, turned them around and using the shortest one of the 8 made all the others the same dimension... within a couple of thousandths,,, definately good enough for application

now a machinist would laugh at me... but since this was my first shot using my friends lathe and its obvious you can get hurt really quickly if you arent careful I took my time... add in cleaning his shop as a thankyou and I had a couple of hours into them
Honestly guys,,, even if I got good at it and sold them for like ten bucks I would still be losing money....

Suggestion ...find a friend with a lathe and have him teach you on one then make them yourself

pics later

Sapper... nice looking rig... did you have any steering shaft issues you dealt with..install tips for us virgins....

cam
 
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A picture of my first machinist project,,, machinists can laugh...

Im wondering what steering shaft mods people have had to do... anyone?

thanks

cam

2.75 in T6061 body blocks.JPG
 
afroman006 said:
The steering shaft will have 2 plastic pins that you drill out. It will probably be siezed together and require heat and hammer to get to slide out. You drill a new hole to put a screw or pin or whatever. The brakelines will stretch enough to not worry about.
Click to expand...
As I said, drill the plastic pins out, slide it out to the needed length, drill a new hole or two and put a smal machine screw in it.
 
is there enough length in the factory shaft to do this? without any safety issues?

thanks

I got what you said the first time I just needed some "mo explain'in"

cam
 
The plastic (nylon actually) "pins" are cast into the shaft to allow for it to compress in an accident and not fall apart on assembly. No need to put anything in there if you don't want to, except to keep it from falling apart if you need to take it out. The shaft itself is "keyed" to keep it from twisting inside the other half as you steer. The nylon adds no strength.

One thing about the 205 shifter. You might want to double check your body clearance with the case in low as it is now. With my 205 swap, in low its real close to the tranny tunnel, essentially moving the pivot point of the shifter further below the body means you'll get more throw closer to the cab floor. In my case I'd have to cut the body there, if that's no problem for you, don't worry about that. :)
 
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