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Body lift brands/kits to avoid?

U

urbex

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 16, 2014
Posts
386
Reaction score
150
Location
Glendale, AZ
First off, I am NOT looking to debate the merits of a body lift vs suspension lift, nor the merits of a 1 vs 2 vs 3 inch body lift...I'm already running a 6" full suspension lift, I'm happy with the way it works and don't want to go further on driveline and steering angles, nor do I want to start cutting up the body. I'm running a cable trans shifter, will be going to a cable t-case shifter soon, already running electric fans, and will be starting bumper fab myself shortly so I can build around the BL.

Considering putting in a 3" body lift to accommodate the 37s on my '86...been searching for a while, and getting lost in the "I love my BL/body lift suck!!!" threads. Are there particular BL brands that should be avoided, or do I just grab the $100 Performance Accessories kit and call it a day?
 
Most of the folks here are only using the DIY4x or ORD 1" Aluminum pucks(myself included). That's going to be some long ass bolts on a 3" body lift.
 
my buddy use to run 38x12.50x15 tsl swampers on 4"+3" combo .

body lifts anymore there is no real difference for your level of kit as all you basicly need by the sounds of it is pucks and bolts . the rest you have already figured out with electric fans / cable shifters .

search ebay i think they sell block / pucks as individual items . then you would just need hardware and NOT grade 2 .

dont forget the condition of your body mounts tho .
 
sweetk30 said:
search ebay i think they sell block / pucks as individual items . then you would just need hardware and NOT grade 2 .
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Yeah...$50 for just the pucks. I live out in the middle of nowhere, and going into town for hardware is an adventure in itself. At $100 for the whole kit, I'd probably come close to breaking even by piecing it together myself. Hell, I even have a lathe in the garage, and could easily cut pucks myself, but at these prices, it's not even worth my time to do it.
 
urbex said:
Yeah...$50 for just the pucks. I live out in the middle of nowhere, and going into town for hardware is an adventure in itself. At $100 for the whole kit, I'd probably come close to breaking even by piecing it together myself. Hell, I even have a lathe in the garage, and could easily cut pucks myself, but at these prices, it's not even worth my time to do it.
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Exactly!
 
that 37" tire dont look like the correct gap for a 6" lift .

you better check that suspension out . you sure its a 6" kit ? ?

time for more pics and a tape measure test . that trailer test pic you showed the springs dont have that much arch at all .
 
sweetk30 said:
that 37" tire dont look like the correct gap for a 6" lift .

you better check that suspension out . you sure its a 6" kit ? ?

time for more pics and a tape measure test . that trailer test pic you showed the springs dont have that much arch at all .
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Those are all flexed pics. Doesn't matter though...1" lift, or 24"...I'm not going higher on the suspension to clear these tires.
 
TreeFarm said:
Moving your axle forward with a zero rate would fix that rubbing. Just saying
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And affects other things too, such as steering and shock angles. The is locked in hard on the passenger side, it's not just a slight rub. Drivers side is currently without the inner fender.
 
urbex said:
And affects other things too, such as steering and shock angles. The is locked in hard on the passenger side, it's not just a slight rub. Drivers side is currently without the inner fender.
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Ok, its obvious you are set on lifting it rather than just fixing the problem. I can tell you for a fact you can run those tires with 1" of lift as I have personally done it with a zero rate and my axle moved forward 1"

So buy whatever lift blocks you want as long as they come with bolts. I recommend getting new body mounts too.

full
 
No ****ing shit... Like I said in the very first sentence, I'm not here to debate merits. I have my reasons for doing what I'm doing, and thought I made it pretty ****ing simple.

Mods, just delete the damn thread already.
 
urbex said:
No ****ing shit... Like I said in the very first sentence, I'm not here to debate merits. I have my reasons for doing what I'm doing, and thought I made it pretty ****ing simple.

Mods, just delete the damn thread already.
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calm down there buddy . . . . :surepal:

were trying to get you the best bang for the buck is all and make sure you know exactly what you have .

and i have first hand experience with moving the axle ahead it make a HUGE difference .

but as we said early on there is not much difference to a body lift brand for the level of parts you said you need .
 
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