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Body Lift Questions

B

BigTex

1/2 ton status
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Guys, I will be installing a body lift (hopefully this weekend) on my '79. For you guys that have done this your own:

1) What have you used to hold the body up with the jackstands in order to not cause damage to the body? I am thinking about putting a 4X4 block between the stands and body to evenly spread the weight.

2) What is the easiest way to get the jack up on the body that high? I was thinking about taking all my tires and wheels off to lower the truck. I know this will be extra work, but I don't have a forklift laying around the house.

3) I will have to extend the tranny linkage 3", what material should I use to weld on the linkage?

What have you guys done to make this job easier? Any tips and pointers you can offer? Any suggestions will be very much appreciated. Please help!

"Constipated people don't give a crap!"
 
1) What have you used to hold the body up with the jackstands in order to not cause damage to the body? I am thinking about putting a 4X4 block between the stands and body to evenly spread the weight.
Yeah, place a piece of wood under the body, even a 2x4 will work. that helps spread the weight

2) What is the easiest way to get the jack up on the body that high? I was thinking about taking all my tires and wheels off to lower the truck. I know this will be extra work, but I don't have a forklift laying around the house.
No need to remove the tire or anything. Use stacks of wood and place the bottle jack on that....preferably 12x12" pieces for sturdyness

3) I will have to extend the tranny linkage 3", what material should I use to weld on the linkage?
Yes, your kit should come with the piece you need to weld on.

What have you guys done to make this job easier? Any tips and pointers you can offer? Any suggestions will be very much appreciated. Please help!
Start spraying the bolts now with some sort of lubricant like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench, spray them daily till the day you do this. Loosen all the body bolts (10) first. Then proceed to put the lift on. Do one side of the body at a time (ie, do driver side first, then pass; NOT the front two and then the next two, etc.). OH, and your Fan shroud will need to be cut or the bottom half needs to be removed.

Good luck
Boss

Pic of my truck Before N' After
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BeforeNAfter>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/BeforeNAfter</a>
 
Oh, one more question:

What about my steering column? Do I have to loosen any of the bolts to free it up a bit?

"Constipated people don't give a crap!"
 
I am installing my ORD body lift next weekend. I got some pointers from Steve about it. First, he recommended using a 2x6 to spread the pressure against the bottom of the tub. I am using a large (very heavy) floor jack to lift mine, so I can't elevate the jack. He recommeded using a 4x4 cut to fit between the jack and the 2x6 (I plan to nail them together like a T. Then, lift the jack. It will press the 4x4 up agianst the 2x6 lifting the body.

Since I am only doing the 1" lift, I can't help you on the linkage issue. I also believe you will have to loosen some of the bolts on the steering column for a 3" lift.

Finally, be sure and roll down your rear window when doing this. You will get some flex in the body. If the window is up tight, you could break it upon body flex. And double check all your wires, fuel lines, etc. when lifting the body to make sure you are breaking or stretching anything.

Espen88K5 has a pretty good write-up on his website about installing a 3" body lift. He has some good pics including details about the mods he did to raise his bumpers. Check it out. My 85 Jimmy
Who put a stop payment on my reality check?!?
 
Thanks, Brian. How will you get your jack up that high? You are using a hydraulic jack, right? Are you putting it on top of anything to get it that high up?

"Constipated people don't give a crap!"
 
My floor jack is a 3 1/2 ton Craftsman. It weighs about 50-60 lbs. I plan on keeping it square on the ground. It also has a lift height of 20". I plan to take a 4x4 and cut it to 2' long. I will nail it to a piece of 2x6. The length of the 2x6 and where I nail the 4x4 to it depends on where I think the center of the lifting force should be. Now I will have a T. I will place the bottom of the 4x4 (bottom of the T) in the jack cradle with the jack lowered on the ground. I will make sure that with it lowered the 2x6 (top of the T) will be about 3-4 inches from the bottom of the body. As I raise the jack, it will lift teh 2x6 up against the tub and lift the tub. The 4x4 basically becomes an extension of the jack cradle. I plan to nail the two together to keep the T from sliding or coming apart.

Does this make sense?

Brian
Click to see <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com> My 85 Jimmy </a>
Who put a stop payment on my reality check?!?
 
Yeah, Brian, that makes a lot of sense. I am just worried about my jack not being able to go that high up with my 36" tires and 4" lift. Good tips, though. Thanks.

"Constipated people don't give a crap!"
 
If you stand the 4x4 on its end, just cut it to whatever length you need to reach the jack. I have 35" tires with 4" of lift. If I cut the 4x4 to 2' feet or so, nail the end of the 4x4 to the 2x6, the jack will only need to lift a few inches before it will reach the 4x4. Then, it only needs to lift the body a little bit. If you are installing a 3" lift, I wouldn't think you need to lift the body more than 4 inches total.

If you stand the 4x4 on end and cut it to the necessary length to use it as an extension to your jack, then your jack should have to lift but 6-7" total.

Brian
Click to see <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com> My 85 Jimmy </a>
Who put a stop payment on my reality check?!?
 
GOOD IDEA! Hey, you have been a great help, Brian. Thanks a million. I'll let you know how it goes. My body bolts don't look too bad so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I won't break any. Did you also buy new body mounts from ORD along with your lift? I just got mine yesterday.

"Constipated people don't give a crap!"
 
Thats what i did, 4x4 on its end, do one side at a time like the insructions said, for the shroud i made a spacer plate to drop it 2" then notched the bottom so i'd fit flat against the Rad, as for the shifter link, what i did was this, i cut the linkage then threaded it, then i used a threaded coupler and a long hex bolt, this was primarily because i didn't have a welder and all my friends were out of town, and i couldn't wait, but it worked really well, the steering shaft just needs to be heated till the plastic plugs melt then it'll slide apart. Just watch out for the brake lines, ground straps, the filler tube, evap hose, tail wiring, etc. make sure you don't pull anything to tightly, oh and the ebrake cable.

Leland aka RaisedK5

"Of all the things I've lost, I think I miss my mind the most!"
"Are the voices in my head bothering you?
 
<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

Finally, be sure and roll down your rear window when doing this. You will get some flex in the body. If the window is up tight, you could break it upon body flex

<hr></blockquote>
This is not a concern. If you do have that much flex in the body a body lift is the last thing you need. I get my Jimmy so flexed out that the hood and fenders get all misaligned and I've never left the glass down 'Just in case'.

Rene

<font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
 
Thanks, Leland. I know the instructions state to watch for any tightly pulled wires and so forth, but has anyone had to make any changes because wires were pulled too tight?

"Constipated people don't give a crap!"
 
I helped one for a ford truck ( I have washed my hands since then to get the ferd germs off
wink.gif
). It was a 2" and the only thing was the shift linkage which they should provide you the extention for it. I think he took the linkage to a welder and had it welded. We did find out that the truck had been wrecked on the front end before. It was a mother to line back up. Normally, it shouldn't have been that hard.
All trucks are different, so you'll just have to keep an eye out while you're doing it. Good luck!

It's been lovely, but I have to scream now.

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/muddin4fun79blazer>My wonderful site</a>
 
You will at least one time during the install wish you never started it
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To jack it upp high enough you will soon get creative with whatever lies near you. The springs decompress forever and ever and ever before the body slowly starts to lift.... You should leave two bolts in the bodymounts at the oposite side your lifting. The reason for lifting the driversside first i guess is because you'l have to go farther here than on the pass-side when you lift it upp to the allready finished level....(make sence?) and the fuel filler hose and other fuel sender goodies are pretty tight from the factory.

Fuelsending wire's and hoses, fuel lines going upp into the carborator, brakelines going from resorvar stretch a litle, wire harnesses, battery cables, radiator hoses, tranny-cooler lines. All in all you'l maybe have to loosen some zip-ties, and the axle breather-hoses, and you get the picture.... Just take your time and walk around alitle inbetween to calm your nerves, the chassie REALLY gets bent, scared me anyway.

The steering coulumn on my 88 had to be loosened by turning loose two bolts where the coulumn enters the firewall from the engine side. And two bolts in a sliding mechanism behind the smal accespanel just under your steeringwheel. Then shake it hard so it is loose and free to pull forewards while you lift. When your done it will have moved forewards and down a litle.

Transfercase shifter will probably not stay in 4 hi because the angle on the shift.rod is wrong. I tried to lengthen it on the adjusting treads but for a permanent fix I need to cut larger openings in the floor around the shifter so the floor-controll will travel longer to fully engage.

For pic's and more info check out my page under bodylift.

Good luck and get spraying with rust-blaster if you havent allready.

<font color=red><a target="_blank" href=http://www.espen88k5.alloffroad.com>www.espen88k5.alloffroad.com</a></font color=red>
 
I have done quite a few body lifts in my day. The hardest by far being on my Nissan. The auto tranny linkage is pretty easy to remove. Simply scribe a line on itm cut it and weld in the spacer with the lines lined up. Most kits come with front bumper relocator brackets and lowering the fan shroud is worth the trouble...

I will install a 3in body to mine once I get tired of 35s....Usually takes about a year or two...

"If it aint broke don't fix it" is like a 4 letter word.
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.phatboy.alloffroad.com>PhatBoy.AllOffRoad.com </a>
 
Thanks, Espen. I did check out your site several times already. And you got me cracking up on the wishing I hadn't started it part. Somehow it always works out like that. The main problem I was facing was the lack of creativity on how to raise the body but Brian set me straight on this. Thanks for your ideas.

"Constipated people don't give a crap!"
 
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