cameronsaddress
1/2 ton status
Does anyone have any experience removing a body lift?
can you point me towards any articles or how to's?
Thanks!
can you point me towards any articles or how to's?
Thanks!
CK5
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Body Lift Removal?
- Thread starter cameronsaddress
- Start date
my suggestion would probably be to replace the 3", with a 1" from ORD... you WILL need/want to do the mounts too... most swap out to poly mounts to replace rubber... ORD (offroad design) can hook you up with everything including the new length bolts you'd need....
there are a few things you'll need to check out prior to dropping it that may have been changed to add the bl in the first place.. things like fan shroud, etc.... but we can walk you thru that, including doing the job...
generally, you'll take all the bolts out of the ds, loosen the ones on the passenger side, jack up and remove driverside mounts, replace, puts bolts in loose... repeat on other side...
there are a few things you'll need to check out prior to dropping it that may have been changed to add the bl in the first place.. things like fan shroud, etc.... but we can walk you thru that, including doing the job...
generally, you'll take all the bolts out of the ds, loosen the ones on the passenger side, jack up and remove driverside mounts, replace, puts bolts in loose... repeat on other side...
cameronsaddress
1/2 ton status
Does this look like the right kit?
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/oneinchlift.htm
Also, do I need the body mounts? ( what are body mounts...)
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/bodymounts.htm
Here is a pic of my current body lift:
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/oneinchlift.htm
Also, do I need the body mounts? ( what are body mounts...)
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/bodymounts.htm
Here is a pic of my current body lift:
yep i would do 1" body like you linked .
also those rubber mounts are lookin sick . time for new like you linked.
and those brake line drops are scarry. time for some new correct drop / longer brake line hoses to make it safe. unsecured lines vibrate and snap over time.
also those rubber mounts are lookin sick . time for new like you linked.
and those brake line drops are scarry. time for some new correct drop / longer brake line hoses to make it safe. unsecured lines vibrate and snap over time.
cameronsaddress
1/2 ton status
Thanks for the heads up on the brake lines. You are talking about this right?
I definately want to fix it if it isnt safe. As this is my first lifted truck, I'm just not sure how it is suppose to look. Does anyone have any photos of it done the right way to put me on the right track?
I definately want to fix it if it isnt safe. As this is my first lifted truck, I'm just not sure how it is suppose to look. Does anyone have any photos of it done the right way to put me on the right track?
yeah, that hard line will rub on the frame and eventually make a hole.
how its supposed to look is that part where the hard line connects to the rubber line is supposed to bolt through the frame and hold it there. you'll need longer flexible lines in order to make that happen.
how its supposed to look is that part where the hard line connects to the rubber line is supposed to bolt through the frame and hold it there. you'll need longer flexible lines in order to make that happen.
cameronsaddress
1/2 ton status
Hey guys,
Tonight I am going to buy the 1" lift kit and body mount kits that you recommended. I have asked a local lifting shop if they would install them because after buying the kits, I will be too tapped out to purchase a jack and any necessary tools to cut off the rusted crappy bolts and bushings. They are only gonna charge me 100 bucks to do it. ...to tell you the truth, my wife is a bit concerned about me doing it without someone showing me how as well...
Anyways, what types of things should I look out for while talking to the shop that will be doing the work next week?
Thanks again,
Cam
Tonight I am going to buy the 1" lift kit and body mount kits that you recommended. I have asked a local lifting shop if they would install them because after buying the kits, I will be too tapped out to purchase a jack and any necessary tools to cut off the rusted crappy bolts and bushings. They are only gonna charge me 100 bucks to do it. ...to tell you the truth, my wife is a bit concerned about me doing it without someone showing me how as well...
Anyways, what types of things should I look out for while talking to the shop that will be doing the work next week?
Thanks again,
Cam
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I bet you can find a decent jack and grinder with a cutoff wheel for $100.00. Even a monkey could change the body lift out with those two items and I bet your 1000 times smarter than a monkey. Hint hint... 
All you need to do is undo the nuts on the carriage bolts (or cut them off if needed) and then pull the bolt out from the top. You won't need to cut any bushings or anything else. Just out a block of wood under the body near the bushing and lift it 1/2" to pull the bushing out with your fingers. Reinstall the new bushing/bolt/nut, then repeat 9 more times.
-Brian
All you need to do is undo the nuts on the carriage bolts (or cut them off if needed) and then pull the bolt out from the top. You won't need to cut any bushings or anything else. Just out a block of wood under the body near the bushing and lift it 1/2" to pull the bushing out with your fingers. Reinstall the new bushing/bolt/nut, then repeat 9 more times.
-Brian
how anyone can make money charging $100 to do that is beyond me.. it'll be a couple hrs minimum...
as you've learned from your throttle cable, things move when a bodylift is installed... you'll have to determine if any issues will arise from it moving back lower..
the areas that are usually modified, or are affected by a bodylift are...
fan to fan shroud... often times people either cut the bottom off a shroud, or mod it in some way so the fan can sit lower with the bodylift... check to make sure that the fan moving upwards 2" wont cause any clearance issues with a shroud, if it has one..
shift linkage... if it's a factory column shift auto, and not cable operated floor shifter, they may have extended or adjusted the linkage... make sure the trans operates correctly when done.. if it's a 4 spd, clutch Z-bar geometry should be checked...
gas fill and vent.... make sure the hose that attaches the metal fill tube under the truck that goes to the tank will not be kinked, pinched, etc once the body is dropped a bit...
steering column.... I'm not a first gen guy, so they'll have to come in and correct any misinfo here... but the column would be extended, telescoped out for the 3".. they will need to check that..
valve covers.... if it's a small block this shouldn't be an issue, but if someone has installed a BB or tall valve covers on the SB, you can have interference issues sometimes between the covers and the brake booster...
I would have a quick list so these things can be checked/mentioned to them... I would make sure they know that associated issues like these will need to be looked at too.. not just rip the pucks and mounts out and throw the new stuff in without checking these out..
also the brake lines from the master cylinder to proportioning valve should be looked at...
this is standard stuff for anyone who has done this a few times, but ya never know what clown could be working on your rig.. at $100, after fighting/cutting the old stuff out and installing new stuff, they would probably just give these items a cursory look, if that.. cuz they'll probably already have too much time in it..
I would make it a point to say if it costs $200 total to correct any these possible issues, your willing and you want it done right...
just go around the truck and look at it knowing the body is dropping 2" and what it will do to various areas.... I assume you've already taken tire clearance into account..
hopefully I'm not forgeting anything...
as you've learned from your throttle cable, things move when a bodylift is installed... you'll have to determine if any issues will arise from it moving back lower..
the areas that are usually modified, or are affected by a bodylift are...
fan to fan shroud... often times people either cut the bottom off a shroud, or mod it in some way so the fan can sit lower with the bodylift... check to make sure that the fan moving upwards 2" wont cause any clearance issues with a shroud, if it has one..
shift linkage... if it's a factory column shift auto, and not cable operated floor shifter, they may have extended or adjusted the linkage... make sure the trans operates correctly when done.. if it's a 4 spd, clutch Z-bar geometry should be checked...
gas fill and vent.... make sure the hose that attaches the metal fill tube under the truck that goes to the tank will not be kinked, pinched, etc once the body is dropped a bit...
steering column.... I'm not a first gen guy, so they'll have to come in and correct any misinfo here... but the column would be extended, telescoped out for the 3".. they will need to check that..
valve covers.... if it's a small block this shouldn't be an issue, but if someone has installed a BB or tall valve covers on the SB, you can have interference issues sometimes between the covers and the brake booster...
I would have a quick list so these things can be checked/mentioned to them... I would make sure they know that associated issues like these will need to be looked at too.. not just rip the pucks and mounts out and throw the new stuff in without checking these out..
also the brake lines from the master cylinder to proportioning valve should be looked at...
this is standard stuff for anyone who has done this a few times, but ya never know what clown could be working on your rig.. at $100, after fighting/cutting the old stuff out and installing new stuff, they would probably just give these items a cursory look, if that.. cuz they'll probably already have too much time in it..
I would make it a point to say if it costs $200 total to correct any these possible issues, your willing and you want it done right...
just go around the truck and look at it knowing the body is dropping 2" and what it will do to various areas.... I assume you've already taken tire clearance into account..
hopefully I'm not forgeting anything...
also... just a word of warning... farming work out on old vehicles like this can, can, lead to nightmares.... I've seen it.. I had a bud who bought a 70 convertable Chevelle, didn't want to learn anything about it, and it would go from one shop to the next to get all kinds of things done, and just turned into a mess cuz he didn't know what and how the work was being done, etc, etc..
it can also get very, very pricey in a hurry!
it can also get very, very pricey in a hurry!
cameronsaddress
1/2 ton status
That's very helpful Ryoken. Thanks!
Here is a shot of the steering:
Should this concern me?
Here is a shot of the steering:
Should this concern me?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
It looks like whoever did the body lift jammed some junk above the steering column to seal it. Your going to need to remove that and then reattach that half-round bracket to support the column. Eesh... Previous owners suck.
Also probably need to adjust the trans shifter link that's visible in that first pic. Were you also having issues shifting the trans in and out of gear?
-Brian
Also probably need to adjust the trans shifter link that's visible in that first pic. Were you also having issues shifting the trans in and out of gear?
-Brian
cameronsaddress
1/2 ton status
The trans shift link will shift fine, it just will not engage into drive or reverse from park after it is warm. If I wait for 30 seconds or so it will engage.
I would wait until you save some cash for whatever tools you need or borrow what you can and try the Body Lift removal yourself. It is a pretty good project for the begginer mechanic and will help get your familiar with your truck.
Just my thought though.
Just my thought though.
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Yes the very very first thing I did on my 69 and learned and yes struggled thru was body mount replacement. There has to be someone you could even borrow a floor jack and maybe even a grinder. Some neighbor perhaps or somebody from work. Heck if you drove to Dana Point I would let you borrow mine for a week.
cameronsaddress
1/2 ton status
Alright guys,
I am going to attempt the body lift and bushings myself
Couple of questions. When I get a jack, what type do I need to look for? How will it reach all of the way up to the body?
Also, where on the body will I place the jack after the bolts are loose? ...dont want to damage anything.
Some of the body mount bolts do not go all the way into the cab (I cant find the bolt head). What do I do with those?
Any idea how I might go about reducing the steering column if it has in fact been extended to fit the current lift?
I am going to attempt the body lift and bushings myself
Couple of questions. When I get a jack, what type do I need to look for? How will it reach all of the way up to the body?
Also, where on the body will I place the jack after the bolts are loose? ...dont want to damage anything.
Some of the body mount bolts do not go all the way into the cab (I cant find the bolt head). What do I do with those?
Any idea how I might go about reducing the steering column if it has in fact been extended to fit the current lift?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Nice choice!
I usually use a floor jack with a 12-14" long piece of 4x4 piece of lumber. That way it doesn't have to extend so far.
They all come up through the floor. They are carriage bolts so there is no socket head on them. Just undo the nut from underneath the truck.
I highly doubt they did anything like that. The rag joint bar is collapsible though so it may be able to take up some slack.
-Brian
I usually use a floor jack with a 12-14" long piece of 4x4 piece of lumber. That way it doesn't have to extend so far.
If you use the wood lumber, anyplace right near the mount will work, you don't want to lift it a lot, just enough to slide out the rubber.
They all come up through the floor. They are carriage bolts so there is no socket head on them. Just undo the nut from underneath the truck.
I highly doubt they did anything like that. The rag joint bar is collapsible though so it may be able to take up some slack.
-Brian
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Look under the truck at where the mounts are and hose the areas kinda clean then spray some WD-40 on the nuts a day or so before you start it will help. I had tons of dirt falling in my eyes as I did mine the first time, so don't forget your safety glasses.
On a stock vehicle the carriage bolts may have tack welds on the heads, But seeing as how your has a body lift i highly doubt that they were re-welded. So just take off the nut on the bottom then tap it with a hammer and you should be able to pull it right up.
