bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Good point, I forgot about the tack welds. I they did happen to reweld them, an angle grinder with a small cutoff wheel can be used to slice the tack off.
-Brian
-Brian
CK5
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Body Lift Removal?
- Thread starter cameronsaddress
- Start date
cameronsaddress
1/2 ton status
Hey guys,
The Off Road Design 1" kit and body mount kit came in yesterday. Going to tackle this tomorrow!
Anything that I am missing?
The Off Road Design 1" kit and body mount kit came in yesterday. Going to tackle this tomorrow!
Anything that I am missing?
You'll find out tomorrow!
There's always a tool or part that you realize you need once youre halfway through the project.... Give yourself at least TWICE the time you think it should take, and take lots of photos as you go. You may need them later for reassembly.
There's always a tool or part that you realize you need once youre halfway through the project.... Give yourself at least TWICE the time you think it should take, and take lots of photos as you go. You may need them later for reassembly.
Do you have beer to celebrate when you're done? 
Do you have beer to celebrate when you're done?
Or to drink after you say "**** it, I will finish tommorow"
- Joined
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cameronsaddress
1/2 ton status
9:00am
...cutting... More cutting... More cutting...
6:00 pm
F***
POs suck.
Need to remove top to remove roll bar to remove diamond plate to get to 2 body mount bolts...
I'm Gonna drink now...
...cutting... More cutting... More cutting...
6:00 pm
F***
POs suck.
Need to remove top to remove roll bar to remove diamond plate to get to 2 body mount bolts...
I'm Gonna drink now...
Sombich. That sucks. Good luck tomorrow.
Bet the end of the day looked better than this though
ahahahaha
damn this hobby
damn this hobby
no ****!
You DO realize that you're going to have to drain and pull the radiator to get to the forwardmost mounts, right?
Unfortunately, unless you have studied this site A LOT you are bound to get surprised by issues and setbacks. Embrace it now as part of the "fun"....because its going to be happening all the time when you work on a 40-year old truck.
I didn't know that about first gen supports.... all the later ones you can leave the rad in....
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I was able to snake the bolts up on mine without removing the radiator. Not sure how a body lift might change that ability or not.
-Brian
-Brian
- Joined
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Nope not me. I had to remove the rad cuz that square washer thingie was rust welded to the carriage head. So what did I do when I put it back, I for real welded it so now I always get to take the rad out Good luck and just take your time
Good luck and just take your time
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
If you slide the metal tube bushing that the bolt slides through along with the lower rubber mount, it makes it easier for the bolt to move out of the way of the radiator if you can spin the square retainer out of the way. I have no body lift so my bolt is much shorter than it would be with a 3" body lift. I can see how a longer bolt might not be able to do that. Oh well! 
-Brian
-Brian
cameronsaddress
1/2 ton status
Round 2 
Ok,
I got every rusted bolt and puck out, and all new hardware in.
Before:
After:
I have a bit of an issue.
After mounting the last set of hardware, the back of the truck is still high... It is not caught on anything (no tubes or hardware is in the way). Is the back of the truck body bent upwards a bit maybe?
Also... My doors do not seat correctly... driver is sealed shut, passenger side wont shut.
Should I just try to torque it back down by tightening the bolts good?
Any ideas?
Ok,
I got every rusted bolt and puck out, and all new hardware in.
Before:
After:
I have a bit of an issue.
After mounting the last set of hardware, the back of the truck is still high... It is not caught on anything (no tubes or hardware is in the way). Is the back of the truck body bent upwards a bit maybe?
Also... My doors do not seat correctly... driver is sealed shut, passenger side wont shut.
Should I just try to torque it back down by tightening the bolts good?
Any ideas?
My guess is...And I have been wrong before, But...
Most people will have to add a shim here or there to certain body mount positions to get things straight. With the mounts not tightend down like that then the body is obviuosly twisted some and the doors probably will be off. I would give them a tighten...not tourqued, but just tighten them down and then check the doors.
Even with my hardtop on, when i did some light wheeling, The doors will rub or get stuck depending on how the frame and body flex around.
Most people will have to add a shim here or there to certain body mount positions to get things straight. With the mounts not tightend down like that then the body is obviuosly twisted some and the doors probably will be off. I would give them a tighten...not tourqued, but just tighten them down and then check the doors.
Even with my hardtop on, when i did some light wheeling, The doors will rub or get stuck depending on how the frame and body flex around.
