Any tips on removing the body mount bolts? Do I need to support the frame? What is the best way to remove the rubber mount?
CK5
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body mount bolt removal
- Thread starter wazzabie
- Start date
Interested.... 
CGT80
1/2 ton status
Use a really long handle 1/2" ratchet and socket. The mounts under the front of the cab, on my 79 pickup, have nuts that will twist back and forth a little, but will not spin (if they are in decent shape). I didn't realize this and ended up cutting my floor to get to the nut. I wasn't a happy camper when I realized I cut the floor for nothing. The rear cab bolts and nuts worked about the same. The front core support bolts had nuts that you could get to. I used an offset end wrench for the top and a ratchet and socket for the bottom. After they were all loose, I used a jack to lift the cab. You can put blocks of wood on the jack to spread out the load on the bottom of the cab. I had to go fairly high to get the rear bushings out. I only used one floor jack and lifted very carefully. My dad and I checked the body often to watch for any rubbing or stress. It is better if you have more than one jack.
I installed energy suspension poly mounts. I had to cut down the metal inserts for the rear mounts. The directions were included. The truck is better with new mounts. It doesn't ride as harsh over big bumps, but the poly seems to transmit vibrations more than the old worn out rubber.
I installed energy suspension poly mounts. I had to cut down the metal inserts for the rear mounts. The directions were included. The truck is better with new mounts. It doesn't ride as harsh over big bumps, but the poly seems to transmit vibrations more than the old worn out rubber.
I only need to take out the rubber mount for one mount. Could I just remove the bolt for this one or must all bolts be removed?
I say take them out however you can. I like to start with a long ratchet or breaker bar, but you might start with a impact. I don't see why you would support the frame, but I suggest a long board on a jack to lift the body so as to spread the load out on the metal. Don't try to do just one without loosening the others on that side. Back them off quite a ways. If I am not answering your questions, let me know. Or maybe someone else will have more info.
If you can get Aerokroil its THE best penetrating oil ever. Totally trumps pb blaster. Very expensive but damn its worth it.
If you only need to replace on mount, you will need to at least remove the bolts on the adjacent mounts on each side, or you would be putting too much pressure on the body twisting it to raise it enough to replace the mount
Maybe I'm mistaken about the location of the body mount. I need to replace the brace highlighted in red. Where I have circled is this a body mount?
yep, this is a body mount.
Is this the truck you are working on?
That is worse than the worst truck I scrapped.
Is this the truck you are working on?
That is worse than the worst truck I scrapped.
yep, this is a body mount.
Is this the truck you are working on?
That is worse than the worst truck I scrapped.
No I just grabbed some pics on the web but my floor support piece is so rotted I can put my hand into it. Here are some more pics I found on the web.
I need to remove the area in red.
When removing should I support the floor brace as I have shown in brown?
Here is a pic of what I'm working on below. There still is some structural support. It may be sagging a little.
CGT80
1/2 ton status
Those are the front cab mounts that you are trying to take apart. It wouldn't hurt to support the floor by a brace vs. just on the sheet metal. I lifted the cab with a block of wood from the back. I placed the board on the sheet metal where it started to curve. The area was stiffer than the middle of the floor. I had a lot of obstacles to work around. My truck has very little surface rust and no structural rust that I have seen. Your body may not be as strong, so you might have to be more careful.
I don't think you will have to lift the cab much to get the front mounts out, but you should probably loosen all the others so that it can be lifted rather than bent. I just jacked mine up very slowly. It doesn't take an enormous amount of force to lift the cab.
I don't think you will have to lift the cab much to get the front mounts out, but you should probably loosen all the others so that it can be lifted rather than bent. I just jacked mine up very slowly. It doesn't take an enormous amount of force to lift the cab.
To remove the floor support do I need to drill out any spot welds?
is your friend.....
454Sub
5/8 ton status
Well that body mount wont be tough to get to at all from any angle..... Mine had to be warmed up with a torch first, and still 2 of em spun the square threaded thing inside the floor pan, so my Sub doesnt have 2 of the original body mounts, but they are in the 3rd row seat and no one rides back there anyways.
And i have that airhammer, Gods gift to tearing sh*t apart witha quickness.
And i have that airhammer, Gods gift to tearing sh*t apart witha quickness.
Do I need to remove or loosen the other mounts 2-4 in the pic? How high should I lift it?
I just need to rebuilt mount 1 in the pic below. Also I started turning mount 1 and the rubber moved around.
I just need to rebuilt mount 1 in the pic below. Also I started turning mount 1 and the rubber moved around.
CGT80
1/2 ton status
You will likely have spot welds in the supports. I haven't taken one apart. No big deal if the rubber turns. It is probably smashed into the bolt from being tight for so many years. use lube, and turn with your ratchet. As long as you feel resistance as you are turning you should be ok. If it spins freely, the nut is either rounded off, or the bolt is really loose. When I tried an impact, it just rattled the nut. Impacts don't work when you cant hold one half still. An air ratchet would work, but probably won't have enough power. By hand, you can go slow with steady pressure and feel what is going on.
Try just loosening the mount you want to take apart. See if you can lift the cab at that mount by 1/4 inch or so. I don't think it will take much to get that one out (it's been a few months since I did mine, and mine was a pickup, not a blazer). The body should flex a little to allow a 1/4" of movement (my non professional opinion). If you want to play it safe, loosen all the bolts, but don't remove them. Then lift the corner you are working on.
Just jump in and take it slow. Sometimes you can hold yourself back by not getting your hands dirty and figuring it out as you go. I put off my body mounts for years, because I didn't know how hard it would be. I also never found out that the nuts will rock back and forth normally. That would have saved me from cutting the floor. I managed to get all 6 of my mounts done in one day, with cutting and repairing the floor included.
Try just loosening the mount you want to take apart. See if you can lift the cab at that mount by 1/4 inch or so. I don't think it will take much to get that one out (it's been a few months since I did mine, and mine was a pickup, not a blazer). The body should flex a little to allow a 1/4" of movement (my non professional opinion). If you want to play it safe, loosen all the bolts, but don't remove them. Then lift the corner you are working on.
Just jump in and take it slow. Sometimes you can hold yourself back by not getting your hands dirty and figuring it out as you go. I put off my body mounts for years, because I didn't know how hard it would be. I also never found out that the nuts will rock back and forth normally. That would have saved me from cutting the floor. I managed to get all 6 of my mounts done in one day, with cutting and repairing the floor included.
is your friend.....
Yes, they are...but if you are a noob like me, they are like a drunk, hungry friend that will eat everything around....I had trouble "aiming" the air hammer and keeping it on target....
I got all of the mounts off except for the rear body mount which is a pain to get to. I'm giving it a bath in PB blaster.
I'm debating however of not lifting the body and just welding to the good section of the front floor support in the photo below. Or I'm also debating just going in from the top rather then the bottom. I would remove the floor and then the metal brace and then replace the front floor support. I don't know which way is best top or bottom or just use what I have and splice into it.
If I go from the top I would have remove the metal rectangle brace.
I found some really good info on chucks chevy page. Here is a cross section of the front floor support.
I'm debating however of not lifting the body and just welding to the good section of the front floor support in the photo below. Or I'm also debating just going in from the top rather then the bottom. I would remove the floor and then the metal brace and then replace the front floor support. I don't know which way is best top or bottom or just use what I have and splice into it.
If I go from the top I would have remove the metal rectangle brace.
I found some really good info on chucks chevy page. Here is a cross section of the front floor support.
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After thinking more and more about this and seeing these photos I'm thinking the way to do remove the front floor support is from the top not bottom. I would need to cut into my floors. This would be alot easier then trying to raise the body and take out the floor support from the bottom. Thoughts?
