What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

body work

kyle.rj133

kyle.rj133

1/2 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Jun 22, 2009
Posts
564
Reaction score
18
Location
Hooper, UT
I want to start doing body work on my blazer to see if i can get it painted this summer. is there anygood books/dvds you would recommend for me to get? I really dont know where to start. Im going to go down to bar metal and start from there. Im willing to put forth the effort. I just dont know what im doing.
 
I'm really not sure if they were worth the money or not (I got it as a gift) but the Paintucation set from Kevin Tetz is pretty good. If you have never done anything like this before it would give you a lot of good tips on getting started. Plus, read just about anything Ryoken has ever posted on here and you should be good to go:thumb:
 
ok i have a few questions. I have learned a ton just from reading the "rust bullet" thread. Im going to get my doors and fenders sandblasted, there is a few dent that will need to be fixed but no rust so no welding/patch panels needed.

from what i understand is once sandblasted cover them with primer(which kind/brand any thought?) then find the dent, sand to bar metal, fix with bondo then reprime it? do i need to block sand the hole fender before applying a second coat?

Im getting my core support and my inner wheel wells sandblasted too. they are going to be painted black. cant decide if i want to get them powdered coated or paint them. im going for a clean stock semi restore so whats your guys opinion?

THANKS!
 
I really need to just put up a website and link to it.... eh, sounds like work...

if you have dents after blasting... hit em wide with 24 to 36 grit on a grinder thoroughly... do your mud work.. 36 and 80 cross blocked...

prime... you want something that etches on steel.. I'm big on the zinc chromate... you can shop your best price...

http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-CHROMATE-PRIMER-YELLOW-Reference/dp/B001PRYTEA


that's for raw metal.... than you want a fill primer over EVERYTHING... glazing putty over bondo areas, scratches, etc, wetsand putty.. reprime putty areas, wetsand with 320 to 400..... paint of your choice...


and yes, fill prime should be THOROUGHLY wet crossblocked for paint... everything should be dull.. shine is low spots.... funky areas can be hit with a scuff pad, but all main surfaces should be sanded with 320 or 400 (depending on paint) on a block to ensure it's flat, etc...
 
ryoken said:
I really need to just put up a website and link to it.... eh, sounds like work...

if you have dents after blasting... hit em wide with 24 to 36 grit on a grinder thoroughly... do your mud work.. 36 and 80 cross blocked...

prime... you want something that etches on steel.. I'm big on the zinc chromate... you can shop your best price...

http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-CHROMATE-PRIMER-YELLOW-Reference/dp/B001PRYTEA


that's for raw metal.... than you want a fill primer over EVERYTHING... glazing putty over bondo areas, scratches, etc, wetsand putty.. reprime putty areas, wetsand with 320 to 400..... paint of your choice...


and yes, fill prime should be THOROUGHLY wet crossblocked for paint... everything should be dull.. shine is low spots.... funky areas can be hit with a scuff pad, but all main surfaces should be sanded with 320 or 400 (depending on paint) on a block to ensure it's flat, etc...
Click to expand...

ryoken this is a huge help! i kept thinking the hole process was a confusing puzzle and i wasn't sure where to begain but now i do. one last question for now. on the fillers what would you recommend? I have read the fillers 101 you posted in the rust bullet forum. so would you use the creamy fiberglass filler vs the rage gold filler for small dents to medium size dents? or is the fiberglass filler more for rusty/light pitting areas?



p.s. You should really consider making a website for all of the knowledge you have. I would be willing to pay money for it, so would others im sure! I have always wanted to learn how to do autobody and get the right techniques and process of what to do.
 
Im guessing that the rage gold filler would have less pin holes then fiberglass filler? but is it as strong as fiberglass filler?
 
if they are relatively shallow just get a standard filler like the rage gold.... it's WAY more user and am friendly....

glass tends to be for deep areas, seams of patching, weird stuff.... yes, I can bring it thru primer, but for the majority of society I don't recommend it.. it's not "standard operating procedure"


always remember, body work is only as good as the prep work on the last step... so be thorough before moving from step to step.. if you do the bondo right, you should need little to no putty on the primer...

do you have gun capability?
 
kylerj133 said:
Im guessing that the rage gold filler would have less pin holes then fiberglass filler? but is it as strong as fiberglass filler?
Click to expand...


if ya go back over that fillers 101 snore fest again, you'll see i get EXTENSIVE into the description on all.. yeah glass is stronger, hair dependent... but filler is much less pinholey...
 
wow that zinc stuff is pricey! :eek1:

Now i have more questions. I called around today to get quotes on sandblasting and most places said they cant do body panels because they will warp from the heat.

I have the "blast out of a bucket" abrasive gun from eastwood and its so slow! i was looking on harbor freight and came to find this one. http://www.harborfreight.com/110-lb-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-95014.html would this sand blaster do the job of blasting doors/fenders and not warp the metal if i take the time? also can you use this one for soda blasting or is there even a difference? and how long does blasting usually take?

as for gun capabilities, I will have one once I figure out which one to buy. I want to find a decent one cause eventually i want to paint it myself and make it look good. but not sure what one :dunno: (never really looked:whistle:)
 
kylerj133 said:
wow that zinc stuff is pricey! :eek1:

Now i have more questions. I called around today to get quotes on sandblasting and most places said they cant do body panels because they will warp from the heat.

I have the "blast out of a bucket" abrasive gun from eastwood and its so slow! i was looking on harbor freight and came to find this one. http://www.harborfreight.com/110-lb-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-95014.html would this sand blaster do the job of blasting doors/fenders and not warp the metal if i take the time? also can you use this one for soda blasting or is there even a difference? and how long does blasting usually take?

as for gun capabilities, I will have one once I figure out which one to buy. I want to find a decent one cause eventually i want to paint it myself and make it look good. but not sure what one :dunno: (never really looked:whistle:)
Click to expand...


sorry, missed this...


eh, it's not $2 a can walmart stuff thats for sure... i pay $6 a can at work, pretty good compared to all the cr@p primers they sell in cans these days at $5... not sure where the guys are getting their best deals these days, usually it's about 9, 10 a can...


anyway... yup, as I've talked about often here, ya need to be very careful blasting large flats... I've seen guys warp the sh*t out of stuff....

generally this is alleviated by using other media, walnuts, plastic, etc.. many guys/shops are not capable of that tho, or don't want to be bothered...

one thing to keep in mind, big flats are BY FAR the easiest to contend with.. where sandblasting is invaluable is for all the nooks and crannies.. where you have body lines, edges, etc to structurally keep it from warping....

often at the resto shop, we would chemical strip the large warp-prone areas, hoods, roofs and such... then bring em down back and blast everything else, than just lightly hit the large areas to put a blast etch to it... your not on it long enough to get it hot..


and sure that blaster works fine, heck I only run the 20 lb version of that.... yes, soda could be run though it with some adjusting.. tho I'm not a huge fan of soda, takes forever, overly smooth finishes and even more blinding to use.. tho it's definitely healthier for ya...


and guns.. you can get cheesier guns in the $30, 40 range from HF, etc... but don't expect long life or top of the line atomizing from em.... if you bump it up to the $75 to 125 range there are some good options.. lower line Sharpes, the Devilbiss Starting Line series is nice, few others...
 
after asking around and having people tell me to sand my fenders/doors with a DA sander or by hand, I think i will do chemical like what you said and sandblast the other areas and safe some money!

going to talk to a guy about buying a sandblaster like the one i linked, he wants 60 for it.

would the guns from hf be ok to use for primer than get a nice gun for color? or should i save the money to get a nice gun to do a nice primer/color job?


Just realized the zinc chromate is what everyone refers to as "ryoken green" lol :doah:
 
sure.. just get a 1.8 gun for primer... ya just have to be VERY careful and thorough cleaning them.. they are generally not rebuildable...

what kinda paint are you thinking? metallic or solid? base or single stage?
 
kylerj133 said:
after asking around and having people tell me to sand my fenders/doors with a DA sander or by hand, I think i will do chemical like what you said and sandblast the other areas and safe some money!
Click to expand...

I didn't have any trouble getting my doors blasted...he wouldn't blast the hood but he has blasted both doors and tailgate and various other parts. The doors are pretty stout...I didn't see any warping or damage from it...I still haven't got all the sand out but otherwise it was worth it to have somebody blast it especially for the inner side and edges ...my little 20Lb blaster would take forever on large pieces...and a good blasting reveals all...and man does it love to drink that Zinc Primer after a blasting!
 
ryoken said:
sure.. just get a 1.8 gun for primer... ya just have to be VERY careful and thorough cleaning them.. they are generally not rebuildable...

what kinda paint are you thinking? metallic or solid? base or single stage?
Click to expand...

Im going to go with solid, base/clear im going to pick up some body filler at a local paint store and post some pics.
 
cheif brody,
if you dont mind me asking, how much did they charge you for your doors to get blasted?

Im going to do chemical stripping like rykon suggested and blast the other areas that wont warp. I also got another idea from the 67-72 forum to get a heat gun and a vibrating puddy knife to peal the paint away. so i might have to try it out and let everyone know how it goes.
 
kylerj133 said:
cheif brody,
if you dont mind me asking, how much did they charge you for your doors to get blasted?

Im going to do chemical stripping like rykon suggested and blast the other areas that wont warp. I also got another idea from the 67-72 forum to get a heat gun and a vibrating puddy knife to peal the paint away. so i might have to try it out and let everyone know how it goes.
Click to expand...

I probably get a better price than most, but my blaster guy charged me $30 to blast the door, the front valance, and the transmission/transfer case converter plate thing...
I usually take one large piece and several small items...he's never charged me more than $40 and that's for at least three items...

He didn't charge me at all for the driver's side door because he missed a couple spots...I offered him the money and he wouldn't take it.

If you are young and not all "broke down" like me, you can save a lot by doing it yourself...with my back I can't stand in one position bent over for a long time or I really pay for it the next day...sandblasting for long periods kills me...so does sanding unless I am sitting down. So it's worth it for me to pay for the large pieces to be blasted.
 
By the way, I took the hood down to bare metal by sanding, per Ryoken, I think I used 60 grit...it took a while but was effective....I really like the electric DA that he suggested...it works good and doesn't sling oil all over the place like the pneumatic one I got...I still can't figure out how you are supposed to use it without grinding oil into your work...but the electric one is great. If you are going to sand paint off it blows away a regular orbital sander...

PORTER-CABLE 6" Variable-Speed Random Orbit Sander
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom