Bodylift?need to cut radiator housing?

[Espen88k5]

I know the radiator goes up with the body, and the engine stays on the frame causing the radiatorhousing to get in the way of the fan.
I remembered reading one guys post where he said he found a nice way to not cut the lower part of the shroud off.
Please help if you can. Also is there something with the tailgate springs I should be aware off?
Thank's for any advice.

http://sites.netscape.net/espensplace/homepage

 

[Grim-Reaper]

Cutting the shroud can possibly lead to some cooling issues. The shroud is a VERY important part of the coling system. If you take the fan shroud off completly you would loose about 40% of the fans cooling potential. By cutting the fan shroud you will not loose as much but you will loose some of it's capacity. If you do install a body lift I would recomend once it on to see if you can shift the shroud down verses cutting it or possibly using some aluminum sheet and make a filler peice where there is a gap and a new lip where you had to cut the shoud off.
Personaly I'm not a big fan of body lifts and this is one of the reasons. The other reason is if you do alot of off roading the lift can exert extra stress on the cab mounts. Issues with clearence on the shift linkages and wiring is another.
Yes a body lift is cheaper than a spring lift but with a spring lift you gain so much more. Most lifts if you choose the softer springs will actully improve the ride over stock. Most of the soft lifts also dramaticly improve the articulation of the suspension.
Yes there are instances when a body lift is needed. Using say the doubler is one instance because you have to get clearance on the tunnel. But they only reguire 1-2 inches. Personaly 1-2 inches is all I would ever put on my truck for ANY reason.
Since you didn't take the time to tell us what size tires your trying to clear I can't make any other recomendations.


Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
Grim-Reaper

 

[Thumper]

On my 85, the rad shroud was built in 2 pieces. The whole bottom half is held on by staples and comes off easily. I didnt run into any coolong problems with the shroud off until I built my motor. The stock motor was fine but the .060 over kinda heated her up really good. Then I went all the way and built a shroud and installed dual electrics so no probs any more. The rear gate springs will have to be removed, and either relocated or left off. That gate is one heavy ... thing... so its up to you. I left my springs off, but a lot of people have figured out how to relocate them.
BTW, I have a 3" body lift on mine but I dont do any extreme wheeling so have never had any trouble with body mounts.

Mike


<font color=blue>Thumper
85 Fullsize Jimmy

<font color=red>Lets Go Wheelin! </font color=red>

 

[Espen88k5]

Thanks guys. I am installing a bodylift from Warns and I am thinking about not cutting the lower shroud lip. You gave me an idea Thumper, how about slicing the shroud in half? Keeping the tunnel-lips on top, and at the bottom. Then filling in the gap with some plastic and a pop-gun. It is a 6,2diesel by the way so it needs a lot of air. The radiator is new. I am doing this as a first step towards getting maybe 7" total lift. The tires for now are 32.11,5. When the Blazer grows up it wants 35's.
Any help with the rear gatesprings and other advice on the shroud would be great.( I know this isn't everyones favorite lift,and have been warned off the hazzles with it)
Espen

http://sites.netscape.net/espensplace/homepage

 

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I used some 1/4" steel and cut it to fit up to the frame and the stock bumper brackets, then used one of the bolts as the stud for the gate spring(3" higher) Just look at what you have when you get the body lift on and go for it. It was quick and easy.

<font color=red>BigBurb

<font color=purple>IF YOU'RE SCARED, SAY YOU'RE SCARED !!