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Brake cylinder/ drum removel HELP PLZ!!!!!!!

Chrisblazzer89

Chrisblazzer89

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How hard is it to replace a brake cylinder on a 14BFF my bleeder screw thing broke and now i cant bleed my driver said rear drum and its full if air so it wont work. SO i know I need to pull the axle shaft, drum, shoes, springs and crap, then do I just unbolt the old cylinder and pop on the new?
 
basicly. and dont forget a new axle seal. hate to see a used one go back in and then puuke oil in a week or 2 on the shoes.
 
you don't need to pull the shoes off, hust take the top springs off, and slide them out of the way a bit.
 
Jason4x4 said:
you don't need to pull the shoes off, hust take the top springs off, and slide them out of the way a bit.
Click to expand...
Cool thanx I would of pulled them all the way out if some one didnt say something.
 
Is there a tool remove this? Do i need to remove this to remove the drums? Or are my brake shoes just loosely engaged? ANY advice on how to remove my drums?
 
Yes you need to remove that big nut.
If you don't have the tool, I've put a punch in one of the groves and hit the side of the punch with a hammer to start it off.
It usually doesn't take much.
Also, some parts store will rent/loan you the tool.
There are several variations to the 4 prong pattern, so if you go the parts store route make sure you get the right kind.
 
After you take the nut off you'll get to the outside wheel bearing. I usally fish it out so it doesn't fall off in the dirt when I pull the drum.
If the drum still won't come off, you may have to back off your brake drums.
That is done on the back side on the bottom. There will be a small oval hole you can slip a screw driver (or similar tool made for that) and turn the star wheel that adjusts brake tension. I can't remember which way it turns tho.
 
About the seal. It will be on the back inside of the brake drum. Just inside it is the inner wheel bearing. The seal comes out easy enough. Another large screw driver and gently pry it out.
Inspect both wheel bearings for pitting and other marks or discoloration.
The new seal goes in easy if you have something about the same diameter you can put over and use as a punch. I never do, so I put it in place nice and square and gently tap around it clockwise with a brass hammer. Be careful not to bend it all up. A little oil helps it go in straight.
 
I cheat!..

Sometimes you can get lucky and bleed a wheel cylinder with a busted bleeder screw by loosening the steel brake line at the wheel cylinder,instead of at the bleeder...

You may not get 100% of the air out this way,but I've been able to limp home with "so-so" brakes this way,when the bleeder on one of my rear wheel cylinders snapped off when attempting to bleed the brakes after replacing a rotted steel line in sub zero temps!..I later drilled out and removed the busted bleeder at home,in my warm garage!..:crazy:
 
diesel4me said:
Sometimes you can get lucky and bleed a wheel cylinder with a busted bleeder screw by loosening the steel brake line at the wheel cylinder,instead of at the bleeder...

You may not get 100% of the air out this way,but I've been able to limp home with "so-so" brakes this way,when the bleeder on one of my rear wheel cylinders snapped off when attempting to bleed the brakes after replacing a rotted steel line in sub zero temps!..I later drilled out and removed the busted bleeder at home,in my warm garage!..:crazy:
Click to expand...

I've done the same thing. Running my 14bff like that right now, in fact.

Chris, Autozone sells the 6-pin wheel nut socket for $15 plus tax.
 
Chrisblazzer89 said:
I got it all done I got the 6 pins nut off bye useing a punch
Click to expand...

Getting them off that way is fine. You should use the socket and a torque wrench to put it all back together, though.
 
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