CK5
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Brake pedal pushes back??????
- Thread starter K85 Octane
- Start date
At this point anything is possible. But, before I lifted the truck, the brakes worked well. Far better in their K20 setup than in my K30 & disced current state. They all seem to bleed well also, or at the very least equal among corners. I still have 1 3/4 gallons of brake fluid. Could always pump till my legs give out
The only thing that isn't stock are the frame hardlines, which look great. I don't have X-ray vision though
The only thing that isn't stock are the frame hardlines, which look great. I don't have X-ray vision though
Rtull32
1/2 ton status
Maybe unhook you hard lines blow some compressed air through them and try again?
I'll give it a try. Going to pick up a plug for the rear line at the master. Also going to get an adapter for the prop valve. I ordered some trailer/car tie downs off Summit. Something new and nice to hold Bender down to the trailer 
It's official, God doesn't want my Blazer in Moab.
Was waiting for the pressure tester gauge from Summit. It had to be shipped from Ohio, instead of the NV warehouse, which meant a longer wait. UPS says it was delivered yesterday around 7pm but I was home and there's no box around my house. Called UPS and they want to open an investigation, called Summit blah blah blah. Lady on the phone told me it could take 8 days for there to be an answer.
This is bullsh1t. I'm calling Summit when I get into work. They better overnight that **** to me.
Was waiting for the pressure tester gauge from Summit. It had to be shipped from Ohio, instead of the NV warehouse, which meant a longer wait. UPS says it was delivered yesterday around 7pm but I was home and there's no box around my house. Called UPS and they want to open an investigation, called Summit blah blah blah. Lady on the phone told me it could take 8 days for there to be an answer.
This is bullsh1t. I'm calling Summit when I get into work. They better overnight that **** to me.
Usually UPS will tell you where they left it (front porch, back door etc.)
It's bad enough when the parts come from Ohio since we expect or stuff the next day from the Reno location.
Did you get the plug to try and isolate the circuits? Super interests. To see what the final solution here is as this problem is a stumper for sure.
UPS said it was left at front door. I live in a back house smaller than a two car garage lol. I've looked everywhere and around my neighbors homes too.
Picking up the adapter and plug now. Sneaking it in between work runs.
Picking up the adapter and plug now. Sneaking it in between work runs.
I think it's going to go alot easier once you block off the rears. Hell if you only get the fronts working it'll still be a 1000x's better than now..........
The two best shops in my area that would have a plug, don't. I just tried. I found a plug with the same threads but not a flare. It does have an O-ring and I'm hoping it will be strong enough to test things.
I did manage to find an adapter for that prop valve issue. I spoke with Summit and they are sending me another gauge kit while UPS jerks me around. Which was way cool of them. Going to start working on it when I can. Already pushing things the wrong way at work. No, I won't be fired 
I did manage to find an adapter for that prop valve issue. I spoke with Summit and they are sending me another gauge kit while UPS jerks me around. Which was way cool of them. Going to start working on it when I can. Already pushing things the wrong way at work.
No, I won't be fired 
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Don't need much of a plug if you drain the reservoir for the rears and it's only pumping air.
Wouldn't that cause issue with the fronts and pedal pressure?
Why not get s short piece of line that will screw into your rear port, cut short, flatten it weld it and use it as a plug.
Don't do this^
If you do it's dry F#$cking your master and will ruin the seals and make it to where you don't have the master bled again.
I used to have a short section of brake line that screwed into the port and just directed the fluid right up and back into the master cyl. for bench bleeding. Maybe just try this too.
I still stand by that it's a bleeding issue and that you need to heat the pads up and get them bedded in to the rotors.
Even if the brake pedal feels like diarrhea?
Low and behold, there's a box on my porch when I got home from work. Frocking UPS driver. So, when I get a hand, I'll get some pressure readings. I'll also plug the rears and try this prop valve at some point.
Man, it sure is getting darker sooner. Dammit
Man, it sure is getting darker sooner. Dammit
Work has been very stressful last couple days, mentally with my father and the future of this company. Don't have the patience or energy to work on the truck yet. I'm hoping Friday I take off and start back on this. Thanks to everyone that's shared ideas with me. I haven't wanted to struggle with this truck last couple days, if I fail again right now, I dunno what I'll do.
I have no stress right now............alcohol makes everything better 
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Nothing wrong with taking a pause. Sometimes doing nothing gets more done than trying to do something.
Ok, so I'll post up my rear caliper pressure results.
Using my hand to push on pedal, engine on.
Regular force 600psi
Sudden force 900 psi
Panic stop 1000 psi
But I noticed it doesn't hold the pressure. I don't have anyone helping so I'm recording the gauge with my phone. If I jam on the pedal and hold it there, it jumps to 1000 but within 6 seconds drops to 100 psi and zero psi around 10 seconds if that.
Haven't a clue what that means. Moving into the fronts now.
Using my hand to push on pedal, engine on.
Regular force 600psi
Sudden force 900 psi
Panic stop 1000 psi
But I noticed it doesn't hold the pressure. I don't have anyone helping so I'm recording the gauge with my phone. If I jam on the pedal and hold it there, it jumps to 1000 but within 6 seconds drops to 100 psi and zero psi around 10 seconds if that.
Haven't a clue what that means. Moving into the fronts now.
