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Brake question - 14 bolt DIscs with an "RWAL"???????

combatmatt

1/2 ton status
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Jun 18, 2007
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Crawlorado Springs or Afghanaraq
Im in the middle of my 60 and 14 bolt (with discs) swap on my 91 k5. Before i hook everything back up and bleed the brake system i was either going to put in a summit proportioning valve or Do the '99 3500 master cylinder swap to get the brakes dialed in.

Fast forward to my actual question.

As i was sitting in the "man room" reading the haynes manual on the back of the can, i come across the brake section and flip through it for giggles. as im flipping through i learn about a RWAL (rear wheel anti lock system). Since i know D**k about this RWAL i keep reading about how it electronically controls the rear brakes to keep them from "locking up thus improving handling" bla bla bla.

So here it is-------with a 14 Bolt disc swap will this RWAL gizmo preclude the need for a proportioning valve or master cylinder mod?

And if anyone can school me on what this thing does (other than cause the brake light to blink) or what it does instead of what its supposed to do id really appreciate it.
 
Anti-lock brakes are "supposed" to pulse the brakes between sides to prevent the wheels from locking up. For the most part they work BUT i'm not for all of that crap myself. I want to have FULL control over what my vehicle is doing when I apply the brakes. I've been driving for 27 years and i'm pretty confident that i can control my vehicle when i apply the brakes, i don't need some computer trying to help me. Not sure what your laws are in Colorado but here in California you CANNOT disable the system otherwise it will automatically fail an emissions test (not sure how or why an anti-lock brake system is in anyway related to an emissions test).
 
In short, the RWAL system on these trucks is archaic to say the least.... I'm not sure mine ever worked. The "computer" will not compensate for any mods you make to the brake system
 
The old style ABS on these trucks are prone to freezing up. Most people take them off because of the problems. Driving old stuff you learn how much pressure to apply to the pedal and when to let off.
 
I kind of figured it didnt work (even if it is working), my rears lock up if i slam the pedal even with the 10 bolt and the drums.

So whats the better "Plan A";
After market adjustable proportioning valve
Or
New Master Cylinder?

Ive read up on both being sucessful, i guess im just looking for a consensus on which would be preferred. Sorry, other than replacing pads/rotors, shoes/drums, im pretty much a noob at brakes.
 
A new prop valve, all the way. I know if you call inline tube and tell them what your situation is they can get you exactly what you need and it'll bolt in no problem
 
After what happened to me once I will always disconnect the system on the older trucks. I was in a parking lot and pulled into a parking space. The front locked on the ice and the rear just pushed because of the abs. I was lucky there was a snow pile in front of me and not another car.
 
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