brakein brakes

[tacomuncher]

I got issues with my brakes! i have a 84 army blazer with a 6.2

super soggyness is the problem i did a 14 bolt rear swap new wheel cylenders, new lines and i still have the crap 10 bolt frount however the breaks are soggy as hell. I think that it has power brakes cause of the lines runin to the steerin pump. master cylendrer is pukein up and the steerin box is bleedin all over. what i want to know is what dose every else run. i want to go with 40s in the future but i would like to upgrade brakes and also look at hydro steer on a dana 60... but the same old problem money money money. i by no means want a cheep fix. this rig is not my daily driver so i can wait to do it right. please post up any insight you have on break system ,hydo, pics, websites, storys ect

thanks a lot good buddys

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

You have hydroboost (power) brakes because you have a diesel.

If you want to do hydro assist you will have to get your hydroboost unit ported or run a second pump. If you don't you will have difficulty steering and braking at the same time.

How did you bleed the brakes?

 

[tacomuncher]

i thought the brake booster was a large round thing behind the master cylinder? i dont know. i bleed it with a buddy in the drivers seet 10 pumps hold the pedel open bleed screw maybe 3 times each wheel passanger rear driver rear passanger frount driver frount.

 

[habitatxskate]

you need the proprtioning valve i think..do a search on pirate they explain it.

 

[tacomuncher]

no i dident what dose this valve do?

 

[tacomuncher]

any more help?

 

[habitatxskate]

look on pirate..

proportioning valve.

 

[dremu]

Gas Blazers have vacuum assisted ("power") brakes; the diesels, including your M1009, have hydraulically assisted ("power") brakes. The hydraulic power comes from the power steering pump.

That said, note that some M1009's had DOT5 (silicone) brake fluid. If I were you, I would flush the system entirely with, say, a gallon of the regular stuff (DOT3). Read up on pressure bleeders made from garden sprayers, or take it to a shop and have the brake system entirely flushed, not just bled. You want to get all the old fluid out.

The proportioning valve is not likely to be your problem; they very rarely go bad, and fiddling with it will likely only make things worse.

If the master cylinder is leaking, replace it -- bench-bleeding the new one -- and then pressure bleed/flush the system. If it's just spitting fluid up with the cap off when you press the pedal, that's normal.

If the steering box or hoses are leaking, replace them as appropriate.

Note that hydraulic *assisted* steering, aka "hydro", does not always play well with the hydraulically assisted brakes, aka hydroboost, so before you go changing the steering, keep it stock and fix the brakes first.

-- A

 

[tacomuncher]

Thanks for ur 2 cents im looking into a new steering box and master cylender. the whole thing is a mess. im still runing dot 5 i also do have a hand held pump bleeder deal their was no luck getting a solid peddel their. im thinkin the master has to go.

 

[dremu]

Thanks for ur 2 cents im looking into a new steering box and master cylender. the whole thing is a mess. im still runing dot 5 i also do have a hand held pump bleeder deal their was no luck getting a solid peddel their. im thinkin the master has to go.

DOT5 ain't cheap... for what you're spending, I'd get two or three gallons of DOT3 and go to town. After you replace the other components, though.

Note that some folks say that when switching fluids, you should replace rubber-sealed components, like hoses and especially the master and maybe calipers and wheel cylinders.

Point being that now might be a good time to switch... BEFORE you put the new master, etc in.

-- A