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Brakes still wont bleed...

BIGCHEVYTRUCKDRIVER

BIGCHEVYTRUCKDRIVER

1/2 ton status
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Mar 31, 2008
Posts
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Location
The hills of Oroville,CA
Gotta be missing something. I bench bled the master cylinder i just picked up from Kragen put it on and still no brakes. Had this problem since I let my system drain while replacing the axles. Is there any way to bench bleed or prime the calipers? Any other input would be great. Back brakes apply at the bottom of the pedal. Never get any pressure from the fronts. These are the same calipers I had on my other axle so I know they work????? :confused:
 
Do still have the proportioning valve? If so you need to bleed it too.
 
I am not real sure if I have one or not i know on my old 2x4 it was straight off the master and there is nithing off the master on this truck. Is it mounted anywhere else.:thinking: Are the brake lights ran off pressure in the porportioning valve cause ever since I did this swap I have had intermittent brake lights.
 
The prop valve is located on the engine crossmember.

There should be a brake switch under the dash for the lights, there is a warning light going to the prop valve for when ya loose your brake fluid.
 
Sounds like you need to push the reset button on the proportioning valve. Like was already said the proportioning valve on these trucks is located on the engine side of the front crossmember (just follow the master cylinder lines down and you'll find it).
 
I bought a MC one time and bench bled it, then installed in into the truck and could not get it to bleed for nothing. Ended up being a bas MC. Bought a NEW one and it bench bled and bled fine in the truck.
 
I let mine drain while replacing the rear brakes a while back. it took forever to bleed the brakes. How are trying to bleed? I had to disconnect the lines and keep filling the MC till fluid showed up at the lines, then hooked the lines back up and bled them normally.
 
Gonna try vaccuum bleeding them now tried the pump it up and let it fly method no good. Also tried the tube in fluid open the bleeder and pump til no air coming before i replaced the MC. Also gonna check the proportioning valve. When you say reset is there a button or wtf never heard of this?
 
^^^^
Beat me to it.

Reset the prop valve and try using a vacuum pump to suck the fluid through the system. Once you do it with a pump, you'll never go back to the old way.

There is a small button under a rubber cover on the prop valve. Sometimes they are seiezed up.

Here is a picture

Combo.jpg


If that doesn't show up...here is the link.
http://people.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/Tech/Combo.jpg
 
BIGCHEVYTRUCKDRIVER said:
Gonna try vaccuum bleeding them now tried the pump it up and let it fly method no good. Also tried the tube in fluid open the bleeder and pump til no air coming before i replaced the MC. Also gonna check the proportioning valve. When you say reset is there a button or wtf never heard of this?
Click to expand...

There is a button (usually has a black rubber cover over it) that needs to be pressed in to reset. This is located on one end of the proportioning valve.
 
When vacuum bleeding it, be sure to put some thread sealer on the threads of the bleeder screws. Otherwise you will just pull air past the threads and it will never bleed... still.
 
496truck said:
When vacuum bleeding it, be sure to put some thread sealer on the threads of the bleeder screws. Otherwise you will just pull air past the threads and it will never bleed... still.
Click to expand...




Thats a good idea.
 
Any chance you got the left and right calipers swapped during that axle change? If you do, the bleeder will not be on the high part of the caliper and will keep air trapped no matter what you do.
 
yup that explains it **** i cant believe this **** good eye bro just saved me a ton more hassle i feel like an idiot. kept on wondering how the air could get out of the caliper with the bleeder so low never even put 2 and 2 together thank you brother :bow:
 
BIGCHEVYTRUCKDRIVER said:
yup that explains it **** i cant believe this **** good eye bro just saved me a ton more hassle i feel like an idiot. kept on wondering how the air could get out of the caliper with the bleeder so low never even put 2 and 2 together thank you brother :bow:
Click to expand...


I don't want to talk about how I learned that one. It was pre-internet and I was buying brake fluid in gallon jugs...:D
 
K so swapped the calipers to the right sides have pedal now but brakes still suck real bad. Tried to push the button in the end of the porportioning valve and seems stuck is there any specific method to pushing this. Anything else anyone can think? Also i didnt see a bleeder on the porp valve.
 
BIGCHEVYTRUCKDRIVER said:
Forgot to mention the idiot light still on even though pedal feels good and brakes suck.
Click to expand...

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but that button did nothing for me either. One of the tricks I did find once was open the bleeders for rear (or the side you are getting good pressure to) and stomp on the brakes to reset the proportioning valve. Once the pressure evens out on both sides theoretically the switch in the valve will center out and the light should turn off. Also.. if you replaced any lines make sure they are not blocked. That ended up being my problem. I bought brand new lines and they were defective.
 
mlaux said:
I don't want to talk about how I learned that one. It was pre-internet and I was buying brake fluid in gallon jugs...:D
Click to expand...


Memories!..my friend had a CJ-7 that we put a new master cylinder on,around 1992,and we pumped the pedal for no less than 3 nights after bench bleding the master,and went through a couple of gallons of brake fluid,trying to bleed them the usual way..we would get a nice pedal,but after letting your foot off it for a few sconds,it went right back to the floor and took 5-10 pumps to get the pedal to pump up..

We were not dummies,we'd had fixed our own vehicles for decades and were both stumped,he even returned the master and got another one (new instead of rebuilt this time),yet nothing changed..

Disgusted,we started blaming anything we thought was the least bit responsible..his calipers were rusted and old,so we got 2 rebuilts,matched them up at the parts counter to ensure they were the right ones,and had marked them "left" and "right" too...put them on,bled the brakes--same deal,no change!..

We finally admitted defeat,and I ended up taking it to a brake shop ran by a guy I often sold parts too when I worked at a parts store..

He drives it in and puts it on the lift--takes one look at the calipers,smiles,then snickers a bit..he takes off both front wheels and calipers,swaps the calipers from side to side,bleeds the brakes,and five minutes later I am driving it back with a perfect pedal..as he handed me the bill and said "50 bucks please".I said "WHY didn't WE think to check the position of the bleeders??"...

"I dont know,I guess you were just burned out after trying every other possible thing!"...he said he sees a lot of Jeeps come factory with calipers on the "wrong" side,or some that the bleeders simply are too low to bleed ON the vehicle,he's had to take em off and shove a 2x4 block in them and holt the bleeder UP in order to get them to bleed!...then he grins and says "I love Jeeps!--easiest 50 bucks I'll make this week!--Thanks!"..:
 
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