Brakes

[aceroth]

Brakes are the one thing on my 73 that I haven't touched in the 3 years I have had it. Drums, shoes, rotors, pads were all good when I got it (though like the rest of the truck, they had some rust) so I put them low on the list. Stopped at a buddy's house over the weekend and he said he saw a drip (around front drivers side fender) as I pulled to a stop and today, the pedal went almost to the floor. I checked the master cylinder and the rear reservoir was almost empty and the front was more brown than I have ever seen brake fluid.

I was pretty sure I had a bad master cylinder maybe 6 months ago but fluid was staying more or less full then and I noticed it less recently (probably because the truck has been sitting less and being driven more recently).

My one-year plan includes switching to tons so I don't really want to replace a bunch of stuff now just to replace it again when I swap axles but brakes have obviously got to work in the short term and even though this has been a one step at a time build, I got into it expecting to rebuild or replace just about everything and I have been pleasantly surprised that the brakes gave me as much time as they did.

Any suggestions for what to look at first to make it safe in the short term and also follow my ton swap plan in a more or less efficient way?

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

I'd just replace the master cylinder, they're cheap. You don't necessarily need to go to a bigger master cylinder with the bigger axles anyway.

 

[rampage]

First you need to determine where the leak is coming from, obviously. It maybe MC or lines. Flush all the lines with new fluid, is use a homemade power bleeder from a garden sprayer (plans are readily available using Google). Your plan of one year for tons may take a little longer than expected (ask Greg ) so don’t worry about buying inexpensive brake parts to fix your problem now.

 

[diesel4me]

New wheel cylinders for my pickup cost $12.99 at Autozone,had to replace one I put in 3 years ago that started leaking already--I noticed the first one I bought was only $9.99 and had a one year warranty,now they cost more,and only have a 90 day warranty!..
I would hope brake parts lasted more than 3 months....

Calipers are now about $20 exchanged,they used to be $11.99 up until a few years ago..I bought a new master cylinder (rebuilt was what it was listed as,but it looks like a new casting to me)--that was about $20 exchanged too..rubber hoses aren't that costly either--short money compared to what not being able to stop could cost..
Of all the brake failures,I hate rotted steel lines the most..though installing wheel cylinders isn't much fun either..

 

[mechted]

A) Its brakes... which means your safety and the safety of others on the road around you. So fix it now, and fix it correctly. Find what is leaking and replace the appropriate parts.
B) If there is any question about the brake booster needing replacement, look at upgrading to a 3/4 ton unit or a hydroboost unit now. Either should work fine with existing brakes (at the wheels/ a new master will probably be required) and you will see the full benefit when you axle swap.

Pedal to the floor could just be a symptom of no fluid in the reservoir. Find the leak, fix the leak, flush/bleed everything and see if the master behaves.
I really like my https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produ...ican&qid=1557260129&s=gateway&sr=8-4-fkmrnull for brake bleeding. Just have to use a couple big C clamps to get it to seal up on the MC.