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Broke driveshaft, rrr :)

dyeager535

dyeager535

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Broke driveshaft, rrr :) No, wait, its not that. *update*

OK, here's the update for those that are forum members. As if anyone cares lol.

http://coloradok5.com/photos/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/1569

Well, thats what I get for exercising my truck I guess. :)

Made a couple of full throttle pulls in 1st gear to clean out everything, last time I got on it, sounded/felt like the rear 8.5" had let go.

Nope, driveshaft twisted in half. Guess I just had too much traction on the pavement and not enough give, so the driveshaft gave. Lucky for me only half a block from the house, so not a big deal to get home. (besides I could have just unbolted the rear shaft and gone with 4wd)

Anyways, now I'm at a crossroads where I probably need slapped for not paying attention. Any one best place to get a shaft built? Any particulars that make a stronger than stock shaft? Is shipping prohibitive enough on these that it's just as good to go local?

I don't abuse this thing but on the street, so the only concern I guess is brute strength. Stock angles on everything, so thats not a concern.

When I put the newer 465/205 in (1991 1 ton donor for the 205) I know the shaft will need to be 3" shorter than now, since the newer adapter is 3" longer. IIRC, the one ton 205 uses a larger u-joint than the 1/2 ton(?) 205 I have in there now...so I would need a driveshaft with the corresponding size joint. (no need to spend money for an adapter joint if its being built new)

On top of that, at some point I will probably find the 8.5 to be the weak link, and at that time, a 14SF will likely find it's way in there. I can handle an adapter joint in the back in expectation of a better rear axle, so what size does the 14SF use? Same as...?

Thanks for ideas/thoughts on this. I didn't expect to keep from breaking parts forever. :)
 
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ive heard alot of good things about aukeem drivelines in auburn....smurfy has one of theres and is happy..and my co-worker also uses them as well in street rods...
 
Yeah thats kind of what I was thinking, I'd love to support a forum member.

I know of Aukeem, I just have no idea what new shafts are going for.
 
For a stockish truck I'd say if you get a new shaft and go with a thicker wall thickness that should take care of it. I don't see a single reason to upgrade to a high dollar CV bomb proof shaft in your case.


Stock wall thickness is .083" or less, so if I were you I'd step up to .120" wall. The one ton 205 and SF14 should both have 1350 yokes.

Shouldn't run you more than $300 for a complete shaft.

Rene
 
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I guess I'm just cheap, $300 seems like a lot of money lol. :)

Buddy seems to think that maybe leaving the driveshaft as the "weak link" is a good idea. Any thoughts on that? I mean for all I know, this shaft could have been slightly dented in its likely 30 year existence, and it finally let go.

Is it common for stock shafts to twist up like this, or is this pretty abnormal? I have no experience with newer trucks, I suspect with their power output being so much greater than when (for example) my driveshaft was made, they are stronger? It's not often I hear of driveshafts on new vehicles coming apart like this.

I'm not one to use weak stuff that I KNOW will fail, hence the 465/205, but if the feeling is this was just a fluke, maybe I should stick with a stock shaft, and if I break another (I may be able to get another stock one free/cheap from a friend) THEN look at something stronger?

I dunno, just rambling here...since I will have to have a shorter shaft with bigger joints when the new 465/205 go in, perhaps a whole new shaft a that time (assuming friend has a spare one that will work for now) just makes sense. It's not like I don't have the money to pay for one, just hate spending it when it's not absolutely necessary.

Not like this is impressive carnage, but just so folks don't think I'm making this up :)

1569121_2170.JPG
 
I'd run another stocker for a while. I suspect your driveshaft did have a small dent.

I pretzeled a driveshaft in Moab...bumped a rock ledge with the tube, and when I 'got on it' a few seconds later it failed.

It doesn't take much of a dent to take the strength out of the shaft.

Rene
 
Once again, Jesse @ High Angle is a long time sponsor of the board. :D

No reason to go CV in my opinion. (I hate CV's anyway, but I run one due to no other options for me)
 
84_Chevy_K10 said:
Once again, Jesse @ High Angle is a long time sponsor of the board. :D

No reason to go CV in my opinion. (I hate CV's anyway, but I run one due to no other options for me)
Click to expand...
why no other options?:hack:
 
I snapped a shaft a few months ago coming back from a Patriot's game. I thought I was being cool by showing off the new Eaton posi unit in my half ton (unfortuneately due to the SBC 350 and 3.08's gears, I had to put the converted 203 into low gear). After making a few strips, I put it back into high range and went to pull away and I snapped the shaft. The tube itself was fine, but a yoke on the end of the front tube portion let go and wiped out a u-joint and yoke on the t-case.

Being around truck pulls I can say a tube twist is fairly uncommon. Usually it's a mis-maintained u-joint that lets go, a bad yoke, or stripped splines. I rarely see a twisted tube especially on stock rigs. I would have to say that at some point in the last 20-30 years the tube became weakened and it let go.

What I did: I had a spare 1350 series shaft that was longer than what I needed. I called the local driveline shop and asked them if they could shorten it for me and if they could sell me yokes to convert my t-case and rear pinion over to 1350 series. The shop said the shaft was no problem but could not help me on the yokes. I called High Angle and Jesse hooked me up with new yokes to hook up my new driveline and it worked out slick.

I found that the cost of a driveshaft varies little from series to series (1310, 1330, 1350, 1410, etc.). It is also easier to shorten a driveshaft than it is to lengthen it. If you plan on keeping this truck, I would go with a 1350 series shaft and contact Jesse to get the proper yokes. When you swap in the new 465/205 combo all you have to do is have the shaft shortened and rebalanced ($80 locally in this area). If you decide to swap in a different rear end (you may or may not have to buy a yoke $50-60).

You can expect to pay 500 for the shaft, yokes, u-joints, labor, etc (but you won't have to worry about it). To save a substantial amount of coin, you could try to locate a single piece driveshaft out of a vehicle using 1350 series u-joints and have it shortened.

FWIW
 
Give Jess a call he wont try to sell you anything you dont need. Retube your old shaft if the splines and yokes are good (cheapest and shouldnt be more than $150) or get your 14 bolt and have Jess build you a new one.

Ive had both mine retubed at least once but wont need either one after I finally put the doubler in, Jess built the rear and will be building the front :wink1:

4846Picture_555.jpg



4846Picture_534.jpg
 
Made a couple of full throttle pulls in 1st gear to clean out everything, last time I got on it, sounded/felt like the rear 8.5" had let go.
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1569ouch2.JPG


Looks like you were right, and might explain the driveshaft carnage...:blush:

Gonna upgrade or??

Rene
 
Yes, definite upgrade. Since I've become more K5 educated, I've said that if the 8.5" ever lets go, I'd go with a 14SF.

Got one lined up, 6 lug, 3.42, gov-lock (lol) already been under a K5, so it will bolt right up with no hassles so I believe. Now having to buy conversion u-joints to mate up with the 205 won't be an issue!
 
Well, everyone else was posting up driveline carnage pics and I was feeling left out, so I went and found this pic of when my junk was 1/2 ton still about 3 years ago... and to top it off, I did this after I broke the front shaft earlier in the day, and we were still a LONG way into the trail... good stuff!

poohbusted.jpg
 
Leadfoot said:
You can expect to pay 500 for the shaft, yokes, u-joints, labor, etc (but you won't have to worry about it). To save a substantial amount of coin, you could try to locate a single piece driveshaft out of a vehicle using 1350 series u-joints and have it shortened.
Click to expand...

I call nonsense on that.

I sold Poohbair his front driveshaft which was nearly as long as a rear shaft for a Blazer. He went 1410, got all the hardware, Spicer cold forged joints (non greasable) heavy duty long slip spline, 3" tube, yokes for both ends...........




























































































































































































































And even with shipping he had it in hand for less than $500.:grin:

That's once again.....1410, yokes, HD tube, long slip, Spicer joints, to the door, for less than $500.
 
I have mine on the shed wall.
I been thinking of powdercoating it and putting stickers and such on it.
That thing is about as big around as my 9 year olds arm.
The only problem I had with it is after wheeling TSF the diff u-joint let go in my driveway on my way to work the next day.
I put in a new u-joint but the yoke was egged out, I limped into work and at lunch welded the caps to the yoke.
Ran it that way for a year with a welded diff.
Going to work rig too, 36 miles down I5 @70 mph.

When I converted my slip yoke to a fixed I grabbed the shafts too.
It cost $145 to have the shaft shortened and balanced with Spicer u-joints.
1330 shaft, hybrid joint in the rear.
Not the optimum but the shaft was free and the slip splines are like new.
$145 aint bad for a new shaft.
Got 50 miles on it so far in a year.. it's held up great.
 
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