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Broke my 12 bolt rear carrier bearing

LAZYMON

LAZYMON

1/2 ton status
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I was offroading near home the other day and suddenly had a chattering coming from my driver side rear that came and went. Stopped wheelin and was able to limp it home. Downhill and flat. Jacked it up and had axle play, back and forth. Pulled the diff cover and saw that the driver side bearing was gone. Pulled it all apart and inspected. No damage anywhere but the bearing. So my question is, can just the bearing be replaced? Or is it time to put a locker in?
 
Not sure about where you are but around here a 14 bolt can be had for under $100, and it's bolt In. I wouldn't wast your money on the 12 bolt locker, but if it's just a bearing, replace it and wheel it til it breaks:thumb:
 
Hmmm, a $30 bearing or....

$100 14b
$? if it needs brakes
$? upgrade to 8 lug wheels
$? cause the 14b will support larger tires
$? larger tires need a lift

It's a downward spiral. Once you start, it doesn't stop.

:D
 
Yeah, if I had taken it apart and found damage everywhere I may have started to sink $ into a 14b FF. Then there's the age old debate 12b vs 14b. So I think I will just replace the bearings and drive it until I really break it. The race is broken too, are these pressed in? It looks like the carrier lip is larger than the race, so how does it get on there? Been searching.
 
Chances are that if the carrier bearing is broke along with the race that the carrier itself is also bad (won't allow a new bearing to press on tight).
 
I was mistaken, the race was fine, it was actually the inner part of the bearing that was cracked in half. This is the drivers side. I bought a new bearing and it slid right on and sits kind of loose. Is that the way it is suppose to be? The passenger side sits on there much tighter. Maybe I will have to take a picture, just doesn't seem right.
 
all most all bearings are press fit on 1/2 or both halfs.

so in the carrier bearing problem you have its to be pressed on the carrier.

if the innner race the cage and needles went on that cracked then it could have spun and chewed down the carrier to the point of trashed now.
 
If it's loose you can always peen it with a center punch all over, that will make it tight fit again but really might as well start the axle swap procedure now.
 
LAZYMON said:
I was mistaken, the race was fine, it was actually the inner part of the bearing that was cracked in half. This is the drivers side. I bought a new bearing and it slid right on and sits kind of loose. Is that the way it is suppose to be? The passenger side sits on there much tighter. Maybe I will have to take a picture, just doesn't seem right.
Click to expand...

That is exactly what I was saying would probably happen. The bearing should not slide on, it should have to be pressed on. The carrier is bad and you'll need to find another one or now's the time to swap for the 14ff. Other than having to buy some new wheels the axle itself will cost you less than trying to repair your current axle.
 
What about a 14sf with 6 lugs?? Then you can still run all the same wheels and still have a better axle correct:dunno:
 
Deuling said:
What about a 14sf with 6 lugs?? Then you can still run all the same wheels and still have a better axle correct:dunno:
Click to expand...

Yes but the perches will need to be moved (they only came in '88 and newer light duty 3/4 ton trucks that used a much wider spring pad spacing), they aren't super easy to find and the gear ratio would need to match.


LAZYMON, the bearing ABSOLUTELY needs to be pressed on. If it went on without a press you need a new carrier, that bearing won't last for even a short while if it isn't a press fit.

Your cheapest/easiest option is likely to find another rear end (10 bolt/12 bolt) that has the same gears and put that in.
 
A 1 ton axle will require that you move the spring perches AND the shock mounts if it's going into a 73-91 blazer. A 3/4 ton axle is a direct swap into a 73-91 blazer.
 
1/2 ton and 3/4 ton '73-87 trucks use the same spring pad spacing, the 1 ton trucks of the same era use a 2" narrower spring pad spacing to accommodate the dually rear ends (even if they are single wheel trucks). As mentioned, the 1 ton shock mounts are unique as well and would need to be cut/modified as well.

The easy swap is a 3/4 ton 14 bolt, it basically bolts right in. The only advantage to a 1 ton rear end is the bigger brakes, though many people swap to discs anyway.
 
I just thought about the 12 bolt the guy is selling with the detroit locker in it. I could just take the locker out of that and put it in mine right? keeping my current gears. It replaces my carrier right? Then I would have some spare parts. Keep my wheels and be back on the trail in a couple days.
 
yep but still a weak 10/12 bolt and will require a full gear setup as its a diffrent carrier.

and also the detroit is it the correct carrier for the gear split ? if not still no good to you.
 
I didnt think you can just "take the carrier out and throw it in the other" im pretty sure it would require shimming and such :dunno:
 
Carrier definetly shot, I took the good bearing off to compare it to the other side and no bueno. So now I will have to look around for the 3/4 14b FF from the correct years so I can just bolt it in and also find some 8 bolt wheels for the rear.
Looks like I will be grounded for a bit:frown1: unless I can find a junkyard carrier and put it in to get me by.
Thanks for the help guys.
Later.
 
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