What was?
CK5
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Broke my frame
- Thread starter LAZYMON
- Start date
What was?
your weld-in brace.. it's not supposed to be welded around the whole perimeter..
Burbdood 74
Giver of not a single damn...
Just curious but what are the advantages of stitch welding that brace to the frame vs. running a solid bead around it? I've heard of people stitch welding their frame braces on but I've never heard why they recommend doing so.
Seems to me that it would add significant strength to the brace if it were welded all around.
if anyone would actually read the instructions, that is what is recommended... you are much more likely to have a stress riser crack when it's fully welded...
Burbdood 74
Giver of not a single damn...
I wasn't doubting anyones knowledge. It's just that I've never had to do this to any of my trucks before, (knock on wood). I'm going to do this on my Sub in a few weeks when I install my lift to prevent a cracked frame and I was planning on having it stitch welded, but I never actually heard why that would be better than a solid weld. Makes sense though.
frame = soft metal
welding = harder metal
so if it tryes to flex with frame can pop and break faster. so min welds to hold and support = best as directions say .
welding = harder metal
so if it tryes to flex with frame can pop and break faster. so min welds to hold and support = best as directions say .
What happens if you TIG weld the plate completely around?
this is from another thread:
and a little snip from the link:
A couple years back my roommate was at another friends property up north. This friend has lots of Chevy trucks in various states of parted-outedness, and they decided one day to start measuring the thickness of the different frames. Here's what they came up with:
1988 1/2 ton 2wd suburban -- .162
1981 4wd Blazer ------------- .164
1987 3/4 ton 4wd suburban --- .190
1988 3/4 ton 4wd suburban --- .203
1970's unknown longbed frame- .196
1977 2wd 3/4 ton suburban --- .208
1986 3/4 4wd DIESEL longbed- .231
1979 1 ton reg cab & chasis -- .236
1984 2wd 1ton crewcab dually- .224
1982 3/4 ton reg cab longbed-- .230
I wasn't implying anything with that comment, it's just this has come up so many times.... I'm not gonna get into a stress riser argument with 1/2 the forum over it... but with this product/app, I do agree with the line of thinking.. and apparently Stephen at ORD does too, and felt it important enough to put it in the instructions...
will it automatically fail if fully welded? probably not, but it does increase the chance of it failing imo...
now where'd that vertical key lime pie crust go again....
I guess we'll wait and see after the hydraulic assist is installed. Honestly, I don't think having full welds on my steering box repair kit is going to crack it. I'm not going to stress over it for 1 second.
yeah, I'm just talking out my arse.....
If it ever does break, you will be the first to know
Back on topic...
I also think your frame can be fixed. Did you plan on DIY or have a shop do it?
I wasn't implying anything with that comment, it's just this has come up so many times.... I'm not gonna get into a stress riser argument with 1/2 the forum over it... but with this product/app, I do agree with the line of thinking.. and apparently Stephen at ORD does too, and felt it important enough to put it in the instructions...
will it automatically fail if fully welded? probably not, but it does increase the chance of it failing imo...
now where'd that vertical key lime pie crust go again....
That key lime pie is gonna be used forever after that other thread!
78 Bonanza
1/2 ton status
No sense arguing over the solid to spot weld debate. Thing is that metal is metal and the good Lord made it the way He did and there is no changing it's composition. I'm not even going to give a comment on which I think is right or wrong cause I don't have the time to argue and don't want to. I have been restoring cars for years and have also been a bladesmith and understand steel very well! No matter how we think we can change it's composition or do some magic trick to change it we can not. I can build a sword that you could take into battle and fight with. Am I going to guarantee that it won't break? No way! If the blade is not handled properly then it will break! Same with a knife, etc. Steel is amazingly strong and at the same time amazingly weak. It is much like the human body. The best advice I can give is read a few books on steel and iron and find out why certain things should or shouldn't be welded solid. Steel works on a crystaline structure and any change to that is either going to enhance it or destroy it. Thinking that heating a piece of steel and banging it out into the shape of a sword and putting an edge on it is making a good weapon is a falsety, same as simply welding it and thinking you have made strength. Certain temperatures and standards must be adhered to to keep the structure sound. I used to test each of my swords against a tempered piece of steel. If I strike it and it does not break then I know I did a fine job. If it breaks I screwed up the process at one point or another and will have to start over again and that is a bitter pill to swallow. So think of that when you are welding on your rig! A sword breaking in this day and age is no big deal but if your frame decides to cut loose at 60 plus mph you have a real situation on your hands! And as always this is just my opinion and you can take it as you will.
Fixed. Bought the ORD weld on braces, found a local guy on Craigslist to come and weld the frame and the braces on as well as strengthen. All back on and wheeling again. Handles much better now that there is no crack.
Ready for the next issue now. People ask me why I keep fixing it, I say it only gets stronger and better everytime it breaks.
Thanks for all the input.
Ready for the next issue now. People ask me why I keep fixing it, I say it only gets stronger and better everytime it breaks.
Thanks for all the input.
DrkZide
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Just move everything over to a K30 frame :P
