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Broke the U-Joint Bolt in the Pinion Yoke....

Alright the reason that some rears dont matter and some rears you need to take apart or count the threads is because of whats known as a crush collar or crush sleeve.

What a crush sleeve does is set how much pressure is on the pinion bearings much like when you do wheel bearings and tighten the nut down.

The pressure or "preload" on the crush sleeve is set based on how tight the pinion nut/yoke is tightened. So when you remove the pinion nut and yoke to replace the seal you basically remove all the preload from the sleeve completely loosening the pre-load on the pinion bearings.

Now in order to fully understand this you would have to research the procedure for setting the pinion bearing preload. You would then understand why you cant "properly" set the preload again without installing a new crush collar and going through the proper procedure.

Now the incorrect or "shade tree" way to do it is to count the threads and mark the nut. That way when you re-install the yoke and nut you line it up with the proper thread count and give it another 1/8 o a turn and you're done.

The reason for this is because if you over crush the collar your bearings will be super loose and fail within miles.

Some rears, most danas, 14bolts I believe and some others have a solid spacer instead of a crush collar. You can easily tear the yoke off and retighten it down to a torque spec because the spacer is solid and uses shims much like setting up pinion depth or backlash to get the correct pinion bearing preload. Because of this the preload goes back to the same measurement everytime you torque the nut.


If I was vague on anything or you dont get it feel free to ask.



14 bolts use a crush sleeve, NOT shims. I wouldn't assume that Dana axles use shims, there are LOTS out there that use crush sleeves. GM D60's always use shims, however.
 
14 bolts use a crush sleeve, NOT shims. I wouldn't assume that Dana axles use shims, there are LOTS out there that use crush sleeves. GM D60's always use shims, however.

I know my dana 44 front also used shims. Like I said I wasnt sure on 14bs and after thinking about it further they sell a shim retrofit kit to eliminate the crush collar.

My buddys jeep dana 35 rear was a crush collar.
 
I don't know anyone nearby...dang.

Unless I can put it in 4wd and drive with the front axle, I may be out of luck.
I did this once in a pinch with a slip-yoke transfer case. After cleaning the "cone" pretty well, I slipped a plastic cup on there and wrapped it up with electrical tape.

EDIT: Oh yeah, I just realized that this plan requires you to take the yoke off and replace in the shop parking lot...

I bet if you get it to the right shop, they can salvage that yoke. But if it is loose and doesn't hold the U-joint on center perfectly anymore, you might as well replace it now.

Reusing the same yoke, I wouldn't hesitate to use the thread count method (this has been discussed numerous times with no real consensus if you search). If you buy a new yoke, you don't really know if it's the same depth -some decades have gone by since the original was machined...
 
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I did this once in a pinch with a slip-yoke transfer case. After cleaning the "cone" pretty well, I slipped a plastic cup on there and wrapped it up with electrical tape.

I bet if you get it to the right shop, they can salvage that yoke. But if it is loose and doesn't hold the U-joint on center perfectly anymore, you might as well replace it now.

Reusing the same yoke, I wouldn't hesitate to use the thread count method (this has been discussed numerous times with no real consensus if you search). If you buy a new yoke, you don't really know if it's the same depth -some decades have gone by since the original was machined...

I did run out to the junkyard at lunch and pulled a yoke off of a mid 80's truck. It looks to be in good condition. I also took the bolts and straps because I assume I already stretched my original bolts. I don't know if I'll replace the yoke yet or not.......still thinking about it. But for $10, I thought at least I have it.
 
Finally got some time last night to do all the work. Actually, taking the old yoke off and installing the new one was a pretty easy task. While I was in there, I changed out the pinion seal as well.

I also picked up some new axle seals and bearings along with some sweet rental tools. Pulled the old ones out and installed new ones without a hitch. Also cleaned out the diff and put in some new gear oil. Man was that old stuff black and nasty smelling!

Finally, changed the transfer case oil to round out all of the fluids. Now, everything is new except the tranny (but had a receipt from the PO it had been done recently).

Just took the truck out for a spin....gentle around the block. Then main streets, to Walmart and then the freeway. Everything works great and very please with everything so far. I didn't hear any strange noises so hopefully....that's good.

When I installed the yoke, the O'reilly guy told me to be sure that the old and new one have the same diameter. He said there was a difference between heavy duty ones and standard one (I think). Anyways, before installing, I used my micro thingy and they both were identical diameters. Gave me piece of mind for sure. I also marked the nut and bolt to be sure I got it back in the same place. I did take the drums off before removing the old one to get a "feel" of the resistance. Once I installed the new one, I made sure I got the same "feel" again. Just a double check.

Torqued the driveline bolts to 15 ft-lbs this time and all is good!

Thanks for all the help! Glad to get it back on the road again.....
 
You did a better job than I did on an old 10 bolt I used to own. Just hammered it off with the impact, slapped a new yolk on, and hammered it back on with the impact, haha!

Never did break that rear axle again either...
 
14 bolts use a crush sleeve, NOT shims. I wouldn't assume that Dana axles use shims, there are LOTS out there that use crush sleeves. GM D60's always use shims, however.

subscribed!:eek1: that exlpains the destruction of my rear end and i just slaped a rear yoke on my 14bff and used a impact gun!!!
!!!!!!!buddy did rear end, didnt set pinion right, bearing work its way into gears, destroyed whold rear end!!!!
i just had to replace the yoke on my 14bff and used a impact gun!:doah:...heres my rant why if anybody wants to read.... that probly explains why my pinion bearing worked its way into the pinion gear when i had a buddy do my gears. it did take a while when it happen...couldnt even tell it was ****ed up til it seized up....ended up destroying everything except main housing.... so i had a shop rebuild my entire rear end:angry1:. and i had to replace a pinion carrier housing. got one used froma buddy and it had a pinion and yoke still in it...so when i got it back and after i while of driving i realizd it devoped a noticable vibration...check the ujoint and it was sliding back and foward. ended up yoke was worn, so bought a new yoke and put it on with a impacj gun......good thing i havtn drove it much...:sign29:
 
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