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Broken bleeder on a 10b caliper.

84CUCV

3/4 ton status
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Jul 1, 2002
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very rusted, twisted right off.
tried a ez out. Broke in 2 seconds. Truck has no rust at all. But this busts on me.
How can I get it out? Thanks
 
Calipers. They aren't expensive, replace both fronts.

You are bleeding anyways, so not really even more work.
 
very rusted, twisted right off.
tried a ez out. Broke in 2 seconds. Truck has no rust at all. But this busts on me.
How can I get it out? Thanks

I did this before when I need to run the truck and it was sunday no shops open, after I broke an easy out in the hole, I was able to take the easy out then I drilled the hole out with a drill bit just the size of the inside of the threads, so I don't ruin the threads on the caliper then I used a tap to clean out the remaining threads and used a bleeder screw from another caliper I had that was bad.
The next monday I went and got a new caliper just because they are cheap enough and they tend to start having problems when old, like leaking fluid and getting rusty.
If you are not in a hurry to use it, just buy a new caliper, not worth the hassle.
For me my time I spent on it plus the broken easy out is worth the money I spent on a new one.
You know some shops will change the calipers eveytime they change the pads and rotors. :rolleyes:
 
You know some shops will change the calipers eveytime they change the pads and rotors. :rolleyes:


For the cost of like $18 a caliper remanufactured, i woudl do this too if i wasn't so intimidated to bleed a brake system. One of these days....
 
For the cost of like $18 a caliper remanufactured, i woudl do this too if i wasn't so intimidated to bleed a brake system. One of these days....

I get the loaded calipers (including the pads) for $45 plus core.
I don't change them that often but when I start seing rust or fluid mist, I change them.
Had too much trouble from bad calipers and think it's a consumable just like rotors.
 
Sounds like the way to do it. I just paid $40ish for some top of the line pads from kragen i think, w/o calipers. Truthfully, ive had the wheels off the burb once.....so i need to check out the condition of the calipers/rotors/drums/cylinders, etc.
 
thanks any chance somoone has a part #? cant seem to find them around here.
 
Just put a little anti seize on the new bleeder screws and they won't break off next time.
Tarey
 
thanks for the link. that ones a 86 blazer. need them for a 91 3/4 ton suburban. are they the same? im not to sure
 
thanks for the link. that ones a 86 blazer. need them for a 91 3/4 ton suburban. are they the same? im not to sure


They are pretty mich the same from 79-91 and then the older ones will work but they have a slightly different casting where the banjo bolt goes.
 
How are you not able to find one locally? Call a parts store, and tell they the vehicle you have. It should be super easy....
 
This happens to me all the time, even though I put anti-sieze on the bleeders. I just warranty them out. I make it a point not to crack the bleeders open unless the store is open. I run the same calipers front and rear, too, so that makes it easier. I don't think you can get lifetime warranty calipers any more, though.

The last time I changed the calipers, I put some of those "speed bleeders" on. My hope is that they are made of something better than the horrible bleeders that come on these reman' calipers. It would be cool to identify a source of beefy bleeders that don't snap at 10 in-lbs.
 
My parts place had several sets of 10b calipers in stock.. 15.99 ea plus core. I broke a bleeder.. and discovered I had a leak at the same time. I also noticed that the new calipers would fit the square fittings on my new brake lines.. so it was a win-win.
 
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