Broken exhaust stud removal

[apache]

Both center bolts snapped on the drivers side exhaust manifold while trying to install gaskets. I am fit to be tied and thensome at the moment,I have no welder here to zap nuts on the 3/8" stub left hanging out. Ive tried heat,soaking them with everything,vise grips and striking with a hammer to loosen up and nada.
Any ideas?

 

[Chaddy]

Heat, more heat and if that doesnt work, you need to find a welder.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Carefully drill them out. I do this all the time and haven't had a problem yet. Of course working on the engine while in the vehicle may pose a higher level of difficulty but the bolts you said broke shouldn't be that hard to get at.

 

[sweetk30]

get it glowing orange then cool 2-3 sec with cold water. then stop 2-3 sec. then cool with cold water 2-3 sec. keep this up till cool to the touch.

then heat it back up glowing orange and grab ahold with GOOD visegrips. should spin out. work it a little bit back and forth till spins out. and if need be keep the heat on it.

i just did this on a set of rusted bad ford manifolds were the down pipe/ypipe bolts on. didnt think thay would come out. sure as heck thay came out clean. only thing diffrent was i welded on a nut to the stub. but it would have worked with visegrips. just was much easyer with nut welded on.

 

[Stomis]

Drill a hole half the size down the bolt. Heat tap with hammer. Vise grips.

 

[goofy1]

Are they broken off flush or sticking out some? I used thesehttp://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10...&+Equipment&cName=Hand+Tools&keyword=bolt+out on my Ford exhaust manifold bolt and they worked great. I only had about 3/16ths of an inch sticking out and tried everything else with no luck. I used the one that almost didn't fit and tapped it on with a hammer first, then used a 1/4" wrench to turn it out. If they are flush then get a left handed drill bit. Half diameter first then try jamming the largest size to remove it. The last step would be the easyout with heat. Sometimes beeswax melted into preheated threads works better than penetrating oil.

GOOD LUCK

 

[goofy1]

Sorry just reread your post and saw the part about 3/8" sticking out. Use the boltouts.

 

[apache]

I saw the boltouts today and much came to the conclusion Ive worked them hard enough that the drive shank on those would have snapped in half easily, I also saw a set of ID swirl cut with a taper that would draw onto the stud as you turned it,looked interesting but probably not worth a try. I had a pretty good grip on them with Visegrips and it would eventually rip metal off whats left before it budged.
RE Drilling: I think I have enough room to use a 90 degree drill and was thinking on machining on our lathe a sleeve to snugly fit the manifold bolt hole and bore down the center with a 1/8"hole . Insert the sleeve/guide and drill in dead on hopefully and not mangle the head casting. Once started and straight try a left hand drill and go bigger as needed till their out hopefully. Im just not diggin the idea of doin this while with the head in place. I dont know if this can be done cleanly by just hopin to keep the drill centered in the manifold hole without a guide of some sort to keep from makin a mess.
Your thoughts on this one.

 

[goofy1]

I also had a real good grip on mine with vise grips and was tearing metal off of the stud. I also tried a small pipe wrench with no luck. Vise grips and pipe wrenches grab at 2 opposing sides, the boltouts grab 5 or 6 points to more evenly distribute the torque, its like an external version of an easyout. I'm telling you first hand that they work. the next step for me was head removal and a trip to a machine shop. I didn't want to risk drilling it myself because my heads are aluminum.