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broken lock right. pics on 3rd page. whatcha think?

With the lock right design, if the teeth are worn in a spot, that would allow pinion AND ring gear rotation without "engaging" the axles, correct?

I would imagine with the cover off, wheels on the ground, rotating the pinion would show the problem...if the ring gear doesn't move and the pinion does, one of those two have a problem. If the ring and pinion move excessively, but are obviously still "connected" to each other, then the problem is internal to the carrier, which I would assume to be something with the lockright.

In an open (standard, normal, whatever you want to call it) diff, if any of the carrier internals are worn, you will get excessive movement before the driveshaft actually puts power to the axleshafts.
 
yeah it looked fine, there was very little shavings on the magnet in the case. i didnt pull the lockright out, now im thinking i should have. is there a link or some quick way so i can see how to get this done? this will be the first time i have played with a rear (wow, that sounds funny??)

i did see the teeth on the lockright and none of them were rounded at all. could this be a problem with the tranny, that is traveling down to the rear axles?
 
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The locker is toast. That's what happened to mine. The rounded teeth won't be that obvious, you do need to take it apart to see the problem. Or find the broken spring(s).
 
slapperbar - what did your lockright do when it was on its way out? did it snap/bind when you were coasting or when it was only under load?

thanks guys for all of your help!
 
so it had rounded teeth and broken springs? and is that when you decided to switch to a detroit?
 
think i found it.

First pic - after I took the diff cover off, i didnt see it the first time, but the lockright teeth were not aligned. I drove the truck a few feet, waiting for the bang then went back to check if the teeth mysteriously re-aligned. WHALAH, they were re-aligned again...then i noticed a few very small chips on the lockright teeth.

Second pic shows the ring gear and the pinion gear. everything checks out fine...it also shows a few shavings that were in the case (much more were in there, but i had cleaned the majority of it out at this point)

Does this mean a new locker should be in the works? or is this worth repairing?

picture.php
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for a quick fix. Swap the side gears with each other. That way you are using the unworn side of the teeth. You may also need a new pinion pin and thrust washers. Lockrites will round off the teeth if there is too much clearance. Or if you like to use them to do burnouts around corners. If you need instructions for assembly/disassembly you can DL them fromwww.richmondgear.com
 
slapper bar - looks kinda like yours did right? i guess i will be saving up for a detroit.
 
Whatever you get , run some HEAVY synthetic , or the heaviest regular you can find . Its insurance . And make sure the tires are within 1/4 inch of each other too .
 
slapper bar - looks kinda like yours did right? i guess i will be saving up for a detroit.
Yep, yours looks a lot better than mine did. I couldn't do much past idle or it would skip.
Side stepping the clutch at 6,000 RPM on 26x10 Hoosiers will do that thou.:D

Whatever you get , run some HEAVY synthetic , or the heaviest regular you can find . Its insurance . And make sure the tires are within 1/4 inch of each other too .

I ran Red Line HEAVY Shockproof Gear Oil. Took forever to clean it out of the housing. Good stuff.
 
your picture shows the locker unlocked. then you moved it and WALAH, it locked. how loud is the bang? it will make moise when engaging and disengaging. and it will only engage under load, thats how it works.

how long has it been in the rear? is the sound louder then before?
 
Have you checked the inflation in the rear tires? one may be over running the other and causing it to lock/unlock. I get a bang out or the detroit everynow and then if my inflation is off. Plus it pulls to one side under power if the inflation is too far off.

Just a thought.
 
inflation good, its been in the rear for 5 years running 35's. i switched to 38's and this problem started happening. now i cant even drive a block without it snapping and slipping.
 
Looks like im in the same boat. Going to find out today. I think my loc rite is FUBAR. IF so, it is one POS unit for sure. I hardly wheel my truck.

Ive had the loc rite for about 2 years. I only trail ride. I guess they can wear just being street driven. oh well, we shall see.
 
yeah, i still have yet to get the spider gears in. i hate to go back to an open diff but that is my only option right now..ugh
 

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