CK5
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budget beater - . . . HOLMES 220 single line boom wrecker install starting ..

need fuel filler's hooked up yet .
body bolted down the rest of the way .
shifters hooked up after hole cut in floor .
swap to serp belt direction fan .
then 1 last final check over and maybe a test drive soon .
 
got a lot done on the check list . made a new one thats shorter and still filled it up . but its getting super close .

might even if no major problems get a road test in sunday . . . .

and few pics of the fuel system done . and the front nose is all done with lights tested before install . and fyi cucv grill guard with silverado turn / marker lights in grill is TIGHT to slide in there . even got my stock wheel look goin with the hub caps on .

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hunting season opened here in ny yesterday for guns . so i figured i would go hunting . . . well i spotted a NICE set of tracks but sadly the rare K30 square body was hiding in his home . well we will just have to wait till next time .

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got my sniper progresive link today . need to do firmware update's yet

als picked up a turn signal switch for it . it was acting real funny .
 
buttoning up some little stuff here and there .

fixing the driver side mirror i clipped rolling the truck out this summer with no steering hooked up yet and rolling it out by hand over the entry drop/slop she took off .

busted edge .
pass side had old bubble spot on it .
just happen to have saved 2 good ones from the orignal cab/doors from the 2 wheel burn project . and they had mis matched spots . and the driver side was a exact match to this trucks pass side unit . so perfect swap / fix .

then the turn / brake / 4way was all screwed up . brakes were easy . i pinched the wires when i bolted the column back up . few butt connectors and tape and fixed with a new 15amp fuse . then what seemed like a bad turn signal switch and i replaced it with a new one to still have the problem was traced down to the 4way flasher had gone bad and would not flash or even light up the lights . it was poping fuses and almost letting the smoke out of the wiring .

also got my progressive link for the sniper . will see if i like it better as mrk5 didnt like his but he was running and setup for 1:1 link and trans controler program was set for it also . i have not done much yet at all so will see .

now its time to hopefully finish the dash build out and be about done . other than shifter levers and few little odds and ends .

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today has been snop plow light wiring day . no more half installed worked o.k. last time stuff .

heat shrink butt connectors with correct crimpers .
3m black tape .
hella 40 amp rated relays from 88-93/94 gm trucks with ac under the dash at the junk yard take outs with nice bracket and socket pig tails .
few toggle switches under the dash for the lights low/off/high . then plow pump clutch on/off/control activated .

after this is done its button up the gauge pods on top of th already cracked dash pad so i dont care about it .
then install the plow pump/belt/valve body/hoses and be done with that stuff .
 
well today i got some house stuff done in the am . then late lunch and start on the truck . but i got almost all the wiring done today for the the extra's minus the light bar . thats a later date install for now .

used 2 sptt ( on/off/on ) switches for the plow lights and pump clutch feed wire . these then trigger there own relay for each position protected via 30A auto reset breaker feed by the wire direct from the battery . this keeps low AMP draw feeds in the cab and off the fuse box and the heavy work under the hood .

also the best part of the way i wire stuff in is only power from key hot ports to feed the other stuff . this has saved me from a dead battery many a time over the years .

1st switch does low beam / off / high beam for plow lights .
2nd switch does 12volt feed / off / plow control feed only to the clutch on the hydro pump . this lets me run normal or in real cold temps i can warm the fluid up with the pump running since its a full flow - return whats not needed style system . works real good for me over the years . i notice a difference when i start plowing in the dead cold start up . 3-4 min of this running helps a lot with plow speed .

just need some zip tie's and tape for the loom i installed on it all . then next will be the control valve and hoses out to the frame work up front . then we can plow snow if we have to .

here is the basic idea of how i have it . found this when i was looking for wiring color code . its the same way i had the old truck setup . lets me run truck AND plow lights together if i wish when plowing , just NOT on the road as to possible blind someone .
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here is how they want you to wire it all up . . . :sign19:
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plow pump / fluid tank / valve body / belt / hoses minus the body to plow blade are all in place and cables hooked up and joystick tested .

looking for some fittings for the hoses out of the valve body . i would like 3/8" ORB male to 3/8" orb female in a 90* fitting . this would clean up the hose setup under the hood a bit . waiting for the hydro guy to be at work tuesday he had monday off . if they dont have it then i found them on ebay . i think these are what i want . https://www.ebay.com/itm/AF-6815-06...-3-8-Female-ORB-9-16-18-90-Elbow/172512797579

otherwise shifters up threw the floor and double check stuff and drive it .

if i am feeling good and ahead of the curve maybe the light bar goes on also .
 
plow setup is done . fluids in and hoses and lift ram full of fluid . just need to clip the plow on if i need it .

maybe tomorrow finish the dash gauge setup . then just shifters in the floor .
 

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