CK5
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Build up questions.

It's junk. I just bought it for parts. I cut up a lot of 3/4 tons.

Martin

Oh, okay. I see you are in Nebraska. Are the trucks badly rusted in that area often? I am eventually going to need doors and don't really know where to go to get them. Nebraska is easy because my father lives in Iowa.

LT.
 
Haha. You haven't looked through my work logs, have you? Yeah, everything is rusted hear. Ten year old pickups have wheel wells rusting out.

Martin
 
This is a 1975 K5 that I am driving because it isn't too rusty.



Martin
 
This is a 1975 K5 that I am driving because it isn't too rusty.



Martin

Very nice. My first 4x4 was a 1975 k5 blazer. Seeing this brought back a bunch of fond memories. The one I should have never let go. I learned how to drive in a 1975 GMC k25 and an old Toyota Land Cruiser.

One of these days this truck will be done and I hope my daughter takes care of it. This truck is going on the back burner for a bit. I am building a 1977 Dodge Power Wagon step side as a hunting truck.

LT.
 
Rust is a problem here too! :D

This is what my truck looked like when I first got it,the reason I posted the pic is because it was a 1980 with a wood floor. That is the newest one I`ve ever seen with that floor.

 
Rust is a problem here too! :D

This is what my truck looked like when I first got it,the reason I posted the pic is because it was a 1980 with a wood floor. That is the newest one I`ve ever seen with that floor.


I guess the wooden bed floors is not as rare as I first thought. I had never seen one before I bought this truck. Now, I am learning just how common they are. Mind blown.

I thought this truck was in great shape but, I have been doing some searching and it appears that my truck is in fair to good shape. Not as good as I had orginally thought.

On another note. I am starting to question my orginal ideas about lift and tire size. Now I am considering just a 2" suspension lift on some 305 70 16 tires and 16x10 wheels. I have to remember this is not for me but, my daughter.

LT.
 
I'll show you how to tell the difference between wheels with and without a safety bead.

Here is a standard aftermarket white spoke. 16.5"x9.75"



There is nothing to prevent the tire from coming off the bead besides air pressure.



This is what the inside of that wheel looks like. You can see how there is a steady slope from the bead down to the drop center.



This is a GM wheel.



16.5"x6.75"



See that ridge?



That is the safety bead.



They're pretty easy to spot after you know what to look for.



Here is a picture of the inside of the the backside of the wheel.



I believe only the GM wheels got the safety bead though. Here is another stamped steel wheel.



It's a BUDD wheel.



Notice it has the steady slope down to the drop center. No safety bead.



Martin
 
Just picked up the GMC from the shop again. Reverse lights are working perfectly and the shifter is also working perfectly. I sure did miss driving the GMC. For the last week or so I have been stuck driving my Ford Escape. Now, if I could only make up my mind on the size of suspension lift and tire size I want to run.

LT.
 
Bringing this back up. The GMC has been a fantistic truck and I have enjoyed driving it still. I did do a little fuel milage comparison between the truck running full time four wheel drive and after the install of the part time conversion kit. It looks as though i have picked up a solid 1 mile per gallon to 1.5 miles per gallon. Not a bad investment for the truck.

I did not get drawn for hunting this year and spent some time this summer being really bummed about that. A few days ago I was invited to go hunting with a land owners permit. Hell yeah! My stepside is taking a long time to complete so, I will not be taking it. I do have a little crew cab 2008 Dodge Hemi that I might take instead. Then I got to thinking about doing the next step on this GMC build. I know I want to lift it and run 35" or so tires. So, I am thinking about trying to get this next step done this month. I guess it is time to start saving and doing some more research on what springs I want to run.

LT.
 
Well, we got rid of a couple of vehicles and replaced them with one. I ended up trading in my 2008 Hemi and a 2005 ford escape in on a 2014 GMC Yukon XL for my wife. So, the 1975 GMC K-25 has now become my daily driver. Now, the build for this poor old GMC has to take a different approach all together again.

For a while I was considering a 6" lift and some 37" tires and 17" wheels just so that the truck didn't look like so many other square bodies on the road. Then I was thinking about a 4" lift, 35" tires on some 16" wheels. Some months ago I was thinking about a 2" lift, 305 series tires, on 16" wheels. Currently I am on the fence about what to do. The truck needs new springs and bushings. Stock replacement springs cost more than aftermarket lift springs. I also want a truck that just doesn't look like every other truck on the road. I really only commute a total of 8 to 10 miles a day round trip.

I am just so indecisive at this point. I would like to hear what the K5 Forum faithful would do and I would also like to hear some personal experiences anyone may have. Please discuss.

LT.
 
I would go with a 2 1/2" lift and 33's. Still easy to get into, doesn't ride too bad, and tires don't cost a small fortune. Everything over 33" tire is starting to get expensive.
 
Thanks y'all. The lower lift does keep everything in better alignment and costs are lower as well. Y'all's words are very wise. One other thing, no matter what lift and tires go on I am going to buy the tube bumpers from Off Road Design and install a winch up front.

Kinda cool story from this last Sunday. After the gym I decided to head up to our local ski hill and take a few pictures of the trees as the leaves were changing and falling. I headed down and saw a road that was open that had been closed for years. After reaching the top I found a small family who had gotten stuck. I backed up my pick up to try and pull them out. I ended up backing off the side of the road and becoming detained myself. If I had a bit of lift and larger tires or a winch, I would not have been stuck. Anyway, I get my truck out and head to my house and got my beater. Pulled them out like nothing. Funny thing, my mom used to babysit the father when he was just a baby. Funny how small the world is sometimes.

LT.
 
My girls and I spent some time at the shop today. The exhaust I had installed keeps coming lose so, today I installed lock washers on it in an effort to keep it tight.

While we were there I learned why the front springs were resting against the frame rails. It looks like all the bushings in the front springs and shackle are all shot. This allowed the front shackle to move upwards. The springs are so shot that they have no more flex in them. This also pushed the front shackles towards the rear of the truck. These two events is why the front spring is against the bottom of the rails. So, today I ordered a 4" lift kit by Rough Country from Rocky Mountain Suspension and a FUSH, HD shackles, grease able bushings, bolts, and extended brake lines from Off Road Design.

I wanted the Tuff Country springs also from Off Road Design but, this is a repair that I wasn't completely ready for. Money was just a little too tight for all the parts I really wanted. So, this will just have to do for now. I also just went with the rear blocks because I figure I will address the rear suspension when I have more money as well.

LT.
 
Just an FYI, if the exhaust keeps coming loose, it's moving too much, or one part of it is moving more than the other. Keeping factory-style mounting will help prevent this. If at the manifold junction to exhaust pipe, make sure you have the springs in place.

Split-ring lock washers are considered worthless by some nowadays, tack welding the nut in place is an easy solution to loosening nuts, but most likely won't solve the problem.
 
Just an FYI, if the exhaust keeps coming loose, it's moving too much, or one part of it is moving more than the other. Keeping factory-style mounting will help prevent this. If at the manifold junction to exhaust pipe, make sure you have the springs in place.

Split-ring lock washers are considered worthless by some nowadays, tack welding the nut in place is an easy solution to loosening nuts, but most likely won't solve the problem.

I used stock styled hangers and rubber isolaters. I am not sure why they have come lose. I hope i have it delt with now. I don't want to have to tack weld the nuts if I don'thave to.. It seems like such a simple thing and yet, it is proving difficult.

LT.
 
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