Building a K5 Shop

[jekquistk5]

Come on! Don't be silly. Everyone knows Windows are the leading cause of gun violence here.

I had a 50/50 shot of cancer or guns! Lol

 

[dremu]

Come on! Don't be silly. Everyone knows Windows are the leading cause of gun violence here.

I thought they are responsible for the polar ice melt or killing off the Lesser Spotted Ooja.

-- A

 

[rjfguitar]

Haha laugh laugh......unless you actually live in California.....

 

[dremu]

Haha laugh laugh......unless you actually live in California.....

Born and raised in the San Joaquin, not all that far north of you. Why, we had some of the finest square grapes in all the world!

-- A

 

[ktmoutfront]

I was told I caused global warming when I left California for the last time.

 

[FOR MUD]

Just put the windows up higher, makes it harder to get into and see into. The bottom of mine are 50" on the inside and over 6' if your outside. Going to put some dark tint on them too.

 

[jekquistk5]

Just put the windows up higher, makes it harder to get into and see into. The bottom of mine are 50" on the inside and over 6' if your outside. Going to put some dark tint on them too.

Blinds are cheap for most garage sized windows.

 

[ashman]

Just put the windows up higher, makes it harder to get into and see into. The bottom of mine are 50" on the inside and over 6' if your outside. Going to put some dark tint on them too.

I put windows in my garage door because I didn't want it to be pitch black in there when the lights were off but I made sure to put them in the top panel of my 10' door. They let in plenty of light but no one can see in.

 

[skunked]

skylights

you don't lose wall space and nobody can see in.

 

[Highpsi]

Just 1 idea that I don't think anybody has posted yet. Sloped concrete in 1 bay to go into a floor drain. Maybe this isn't important in San Diego as it would be up my way though! Any garage up north that is heated will know what I am talking about if no floor drain.

Might be nice for like wet sanding though?? Don't know how much bodywork you'd plan to do but if you do painting and such the comments about venting and being ready for that are important. If you're interested in painting, consider provisions for lighting sideways / on the walls.

 

[diesel4me]

They outlawed floor drains here in garages...too much concern over oils and fuels getting in the ground water,and they also often didn't drain well,and led to floors being heaved up by frost and ruined slabs..most towns required "grandfathered"ones to be filled with hydraulic cement...

I had my slab made so it is slightly higher in the center than either end,so water will run out at each end...

One thing I'd say is important to consider when you run power to the building is to make provision for a 50A 220V welder outlet ,along with any other 220V circuits for things like air compressors,plasma cutters,or other machines like a lathe,Bridgeport,etc...too many shops end up with inadequate power supply and wiring...and its a lot easier to do it while its being built,than later..

One of my bigger regrets is I never did get my garage wired at all,I have to run everything off extention cords from the house,and not having a 220V outlet in my house with more than 30 amps except for the electric stove which is 50 amp (and un-useable for my welder) is making it suck when I need to weld something over 3/16" thick or run a bead longer than 1" or so...

 

[Stein]

^ Yep. I put in a 100 amp service in my shop. It's enough for anything I would ever need.

My shop is 30 x 56, insulated, heated and AC. It wasn't big enough so I added another 40x60 metal building with 12' sidewalls. Nice living in the country.

 

[vandelay industries]

To answer the question, lots of sq. footage---realistically speaking 5000sq would be nice.

And, along with cozy heat, i've always thought a pit (and/or a lift) would be nice. Or some sort of concrete slabs you could drive on so as to make under-car work easy.



But i have some questions for you all:

1) Is the garage located on your personal/home property?

2) If so, or not, how do you determine what can built and where?

3) Can you run a commercial business out of this kind of building?

 

[ryoken]

I'm an idjit, but 2 depends on local zoning, and 3 is whether the property is residential and commercial.. or just residential...

 

[diesel4me]

Pit's here are not really "legal" any more--some old garages and private ones that are grandfathered can still use them,a few quickie-lube oil change places have them though,but I think they required special permits and restrictions to allow them..

I wouldn't mind having a pit,but a lift is better..I ran out of cash before I got to wire up my garage or get a used lift...(missed a good one my friend gave away though,to a guy who never installed it--left it to rust in the woods..)..

I'm in a residential zone,so unless I went before the town selectmen to apply for a variance,I cant legally do any repairs for money in my garage...but thousands of others do it and no one seems to care,unless they have neighbors that are irritated by noise,fumes,traffic,etc...my health has deteriorated to the point I couldn't work on others vehicles,hell,I can barely keep my own running now...so I wont be looking for a variance..

The town I live in has restrictions as far as by-laws,where a building can be put,setbacks from property lines,wells,septic systems,etc...

 

[euzoa]

surprised no one has mentioned, epoxy on the floors, makes clean up much easier, reflects light better, and no nasty looking oil spots

 

[blazinzuk]

surprised no one has mentioned, epoxy on the floors, makes clean up much easier, reflects light better, and no nasty looking oil spots

How does that stuff hold up to welding ? Anyone know?

 

[FOR MUD]

surprised no one has mentioned, epoxy on the floors, makes clean up much easier, reflects light better, and no nasty looking oil spots

You can use a Lithium water based densifier, sealer to take of the oil spots, dust, tire marks, salt protection and it will make the surface harder too. Put a floor buffer on it to make it shine if you want.
If you do decide to use epoxy....Don't use the stuff you get at the box store, get a industrial grade epoxy. Sure it will cost you, but worth it in the long run. Floor prep is the most important part to make epoxys stick

How does that stuff hold up to welding ? Anyone know?

I think I read somewhere that sparks will melt into it and start to rust.

 

[Mastiff]

That epoxy floor cover looks awesome, but I don't think it holds up. I knew a guy that had it in his shop/hangar and it looked awesome, but he was OCD about never dropping a wrench or anything. I think it would hinder work in the way I do it.

I have considered the clear sealants before, but never looked in detail. I think it would hold up better or at least not look as bad if they get scratched. You also need to consider the slip hazard though.

 

[diesel4me]

Epoxy coated concrete slabs can get very slick after some water,coolant and or oil gets spilled on them--my friend regrets having coated his slab under the lift,it makes for hazardous working conditions when your trying to install a tranny,etc......
Welding on concrete will pop out small chunks no matter what is on top of the concrete,the moisture in it will turn to steam and make it pop out...sometimes in hot weather tires may leave tracks or imprints in some epoxy coatings,especially the do it yourself types...

My slab was treated with some type of clear sealer after it was poured,to help keep it from drying out too fast,it also seems to help keep spills from soaking into it...my truck leaks a lot of oil,and its a diesel,so its always black as coal and sooty,but so far it hasn't made that bad of a mess out of the slab,90% of it comes right up with some sawdust or cat litter..its been since 1992 the slab was poured,so the stuff may be wearing off by now..