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Building a mobile York compressor **DONE! Final movie on post 45**

Good idea on a variable pulley.
As far as cranking goes that is the job of a continuous run unloader valve. It serves multiple functions in one package including staying open to let you start and warm up the engine until you engage it.
 
I kinda had a hunch that the unloader valve would do that, but was not sure. All the unloader valves on air compressors I work with work slightly different.

They close off the intake and exhaust valves to stop it from pumping probably like yours does, but they do it in response to an external pressure switch or something similar.
In other words, when the pressure switch setting is satisfied, the valves close, and the compressor keeps running under next to no load without pumping.

On one big 100 horse refrigeration compressor I worked on once, the four cylinders would turn off and on individually.
When you first started it up, all four cylinder would pump. Then, as the liquid built up in the accumulator, signifying that the system had caught up to the heat load, it would turn off the cylinders one at a time.
On a cool day, with not much product being cooled, the compressor might only be using one cylinder.
 
I knew I'd be busy during the week so I wanted to at least get it to the point that I could fire it up this evening.
I've pieced it together with stuff I had laying around and only had to buy the belt, pulley, keystock and the tap bolt I used to set the tension on the belt. About $20.

Take a look...

 
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Sub'd I have 2 Yorks sitting in the basement and Dad has a few small gas motors im sure he would donate to a cool project like this...
 
So after some research on Yorks being used as compressors I've found many guys plug off one of the oil passages going to the front bearing. It's not a sealed bearing and the back side of it is basically submerged in the reservoir so it'll get plenty of lubrication. Plugging it off is supposed to help reduce the amount of oil that bypasses and gets into your air system. Figured now was the time to do it before it's all assembled. The hole is drilled at an angle and is close enough in size you can just run a 10-32 tap in it and insert a stubby set-screw with some loc-tite and call it a day.



I cut some tanks out from underneath my dodge that the previous owner had welded up under the cab. There's four of them but I figured two would work out nicely for this little setup. Cut off some old garbage the previous owner had on them and welded them together and made them the base for the compressor. It's nice and stable and still fairly compact. Took the plastics off the engine and painted stuff. Threw some high temp header paint on stuff I figured might get warm.


 
Here it is running. I'm getting a mist of oil coming out every once in a while and I think I might have over-filled it. I read guys running anywhere from as little as 4-5 ounces to as much as filling it all the way to the side fill hole.
I put about 12-13 ounces in. I'll fire it up and let it run a while tomorrow and see if stops or if it's going to be a continuous issue.

So now I just need to get an oil extractor and my continuous run unloader valve this week and I can plumb it all up.

[youtube]-YEKss6BPs8[/youtube]
 
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This info is from Kilby Enterprises website. [/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]What parts do I need for my on board air system and where do I put it?[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]One question that is frequently asked by our customers is "Which parts do I need for my OBA installation?" Seems like a simple question. But there are many variables to an OBA system. Most folks simply want a way to get air into their tires. Yet others want to run air lockers in addition to airing up tires. And many folks out there want to be able to run air tools. While many of our customers want to buy everything they'll need from us, there are still many who want to use components they already have available. And if that isn't enough, we can't even begin to speculate all the different places OBA components have been mounted on the vehicle. It is difficult for us at OBA to foresee how you plan to install and use your OBA system. For these reasons, we hesitate to recommend *exactly* what each individual needs here on a web site without writing volumes. The specific details of each OBA system must be left up to you, the customer, to decide what is best for your needs.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]All that said, we can't resist taking a shot at a general recommendation. Besides the install kit, compressor and matching clutch, here is a brief list of what OBA would generally recommend for a complete OBA system. Keep in mind, you'll still need to decide which air tank best suits your needs and which brass fittings you'll need to complete the install. If you are not buying the complete system from OBA, we haven't the resources to figure out which brass fittings you need! Please don't ask.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]ITEM DESCRIPTION [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]USE[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Intake Filter[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Keeps the dirt out![/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Compressor Fittings[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]You need a way to connect the hoses to the compressor[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Oil Removal Filter (coalescing filter)[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Optional[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Pressure Regulator[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Use only if running ARB lockers[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Lubricator[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Used on the intake of Sanden compressors only. Helps lubricate the compressor. Not needed with Yorks![/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Pressure Switch[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Turns compressor off and on. Unloader not necessary for engine driven compressors[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Check Valve[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]One way valve. Not needed if you're not running an air tank[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Safety Valve (pressure relief valve)[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]A cheap safety device in case of pressure switch failure[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Pressure Gauge[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Used to adjust pressure switch and safety valve and to observe system pressure[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Air Tank[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Stores a surplus of air for running air tools and getting a head start on inflating large volume items [/FONT]​

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]What type of oil should I use and how much?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Typical engine oil such as 10w30 will work fine. Run 8-10 ounces. We stock dipsticks if you don't have one.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I see you lay the compressor down in some applications. Is that ok? Will it pump more oil out if I lay mine down?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]If it wasn't ok, we wouldn't do it. When laying the compressor on it's side, you have to make sure the suction port is on top. It will not pump any more oil if laying down versus standing up. Please refer to paragraph 1 on page 5 (Features) of the factory service manual.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]How can I tell if mine is a right or left hand suction?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Stand the compressor up with the clutch facing your stomache. You'll have one fitting on the right and one on the left. The head should be marked with a "S" or "Suct" for suction and "D" or "Disch" for discharge.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]If my compressor is standing up, does it matter if I use a left or right hand suction compressor?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]No, it doesn't matter. However we stock a lot more right hand suction compressors than the left hand units so we'll probably ship you a right hand suction unit.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]What type of fittings do I need for my compressor?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Flange head compressors use the 28723 fittings, Rotolock and Tube-O compressors use the 44760 fittings. Please refer to the "York ID" link to identify your compressor style.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Do I need a check valve?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]No. This is an option. However, we do recommend the use of one if you're running an air tank. The compressor will leak some air when it's not running and the check valve will keep the pressure in the tank.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I've heard I need an unloader on my system. Is this correct? What is an unloader?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]With engine driven compressors, you do not need the unloader. When equipped, the unloader will release the air pressure between the compressor and check valve. This is more commonly found on electric compressors that need help when starting up from a dead stop. By releasing the air pressure off the head of the compressor, the electric motor can spin up more quickly and easily, which requires less amperage on start up. On engine driven systems, your engine is already running. All you need to do is engage the clutch. Have you ever seen an air conditioning system with an unloader? No. If you did, it wouldn't have any freon left![/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]What is a safety valve? Do I need one?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]If you ask me you do. It's a safety device designed to release the air pressure in your system very quickly in case the pressure switch fails to shut off. [/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]What is the difference between your QDM and QDF couplers?[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Look at the hose connection on the back. The "M" has male threads, the "F" has female threads.[/FONT]​

::Compressor Speed
[FONT=FOYGLO+MyriadPro-Light,Myriad Pro][FONT=FOYGLO+MyriadPro-Light,Myriad Pro]You should always run the compressor at the slowest rpm possible to get the job done. What that means is, airing up your tires should be done at idle, unless you’re in a hurry and need to go faster. At idle, the compressor will put out approx [/FONT]
[FONT=FOYGLO+MyriadPro-Light,Myriad Pro]3-4 cfm which will air up a 35/12.50/15 tire from 10 psi to 30 psi in approximately 30-40 seconds. If a higher speed is needed, install a hand throttle or similar device to hold the rpm higher. We do not recommend sustained use above 2000 rpm. The output isn’t much better and it will result in excessive compressor heat. Keep the continuous use rpm at 2000 or below. [/FONT]

[/FONT][FONT=FOYGLO+MyriadPro-Light,Myriad Pro][FONT=FOYGLO+MyriadPro-Light,Myriad Pro]Short runs above 2000 rpm are o/k for instance, when the compressor engages while driving so it can top off the air tank. Most air impact guns can be run at anywhere from idle to 2000 rpm while smaller tools like a die grinder or air ratchet will require a higher sustained rpm around 1500-1700. You will need to test your individual tools to determine their requirements.[/FONT]
[/FONT]

http://kilbyenterprises.com/york-dipstick.htm
 
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Good info Scott. I'm using the unloader because it's a 3 in 1 kind of deal. It lets me start and warm up the engine before applying a load on it, it's a check valve and the main function is it's a mechanical means of not overfilling the tanks.
Is there another mechanical method of doing this? I don't want to add electrical stuff to this.
 
I'm using the unloader because it's a 3 in 1 kind of deal.
Click to expand...

Also, I kinda suspect that the engine they are referring to when they say engine driven, has just a teensy more horsepower than the one you are using........
 
Fordum said:
Also, I kinda suspect that the engine they are referring to when they say engine driven, has just a teensy more horsepower than the one you are using........
Click to expand...

Hey I looked up the power curve on this one and it makes a tire shredding 3.5 hp or so! :haha:
 
Picked up the most expensive part of this project tonight but the only thing that'll make this all work and keep it all mechanical.
Also grabbed a tiny "exhaust muffler" for it (he said more than anything it just helps keep garbage out of the valve body) and I picked up a little oil extractor. Nothing fancy here but with all this I should be able to get it plumbed and functioning.

 
This week has been CRAZY and this weekend is just as jam packed but I managed to snag some fittings and custom hoses over the last two nights on the way home from work and start plumbing stuff.
My favorite local place for hoses/seals/fittings made me these sweet SAE swivel hoses I can use with some SAE to pipe adapter fittings. Makes installing them nice since the hoses don't get all twisted up when you're trying to tighten stuff down.

I need one more fitting to finish plumbing the lower stuff (ties the two tanks together, the blow off valve and drain).





 
You'll need to weld a little carry handle to it that comes up over the top so it's easier to move to and fro
 
I think a 90 degree fitting on the bottom of the brass valve would relieve that super tight curl on the hose...
 
tRustyK5 said:
I think a 90 degree fitting on the bottom of the brass valve would relieve that super tight curl on the hose...
Click to expand...

No doubt, but it's not as bad as the last two pics make it look. I was working with what I had on hand and just wanted to get it plumbed and fired up!

Chevysmithz71 was over today and I finished plumbing the tanks together with a drain valve and we fired it up for its first real test run. It works like a freakin champ! Fills those tanks from empty to 115psi in a matter of about 20 seconds or so.
You can hold an air nozzle wide open and it'll keep up with it, holding the pressure in the tanks right around 100psi on the gauge. All was well until the oil extractor decided to check out early and blow apart into about 5 pieces, luckily Ryan was standing by it and not me. :D:whistle::haha:

Probably my fault. It didn't have a stated working pressure and I just assumed almost any compressor related device would be more than safe at 115psi... apparently not.

So it works great, I just need a new/better oil extractor and we'll be on our way. I'll shoot a movie when I get the new extractor on.
 
chevyfumes said:
Needs a built not bought sticker! So how much coin you got into it now?
Click to expand...

About $140. I need to go by and pay off my tab at the place that made the hoses and stuff, I'm not even sure what I owe them. Either way I'm happy, not too bad for a high cfm portable compressor.
 
Smokinthehippies said:
You'll need to weld a little carry handle to it that comes up over the top so it's easier to move to and fro
Click to expand...

I doubt anyone will be "carrying it around". Just the engine has enough weight then add the York and a couple tanks and it's no longer something you'll want to carry around. It is portable however and a couple wheels and a pull handle of some sort would be best.
 
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