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Building the Ultimate M1008 *Beadlocked 42's w/ pic's**

Stomper said:
Good luck dude!! I'm in pretty much the same situation. This week was the first week of taking every friday off untill BB06.

Then what are you doin online? Don't you have a 4BT to mount up? :deal:
 
Ordered upper shackle bushings from ORD today along with some 4 1/2" bumpstops. I've got all the rear suspension components together. ORD 2.5" Shackle fip, ORD HD Shackles, And some swivel spring mounts made by a friend of mine.

What are ya'lls thoughts on the rear springs? I was thinking just removing the overload.......should I remove every other spring?

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Still looking for some input on the rear springs. I have heard of removing the overload and every other spring in the pack to help them flex better. I plan on removing the bed, so there will be a significant weight loss in the rear....
 
Installed ORD steering brace along with putting in the 2WD sector shaft last night. I should get the upper shackle bushings today and hopefully have the axle up underneath the truck tonight.......
 
stallion85 said:
Still looking for some input on the rear springs. I have heard of removing the overload and every other spring in the pack to help them flex better. I plan on removing the bed, so there will be a significant weight loss in the rear....

I say remove the overload and every other until you get it where you want it. I removed just my overload when I put in my Zero Rates in and noticed a big difference in flex. Hope that helps
 
A guy I wheeled with last year had removed the overloads and you could really see how much more flex there was. Reminded me of the way monster trucks look when they are accelerating and stopping hard.

My vote would to just try the overload removal first and see how you like it.

Although I know Hossbaby50 removed his overloads and proceeded to put a nice S or ~ curve to his springs on the following trail run.
 
Cool, I think I will feel better with just the overloads out for now and test it out. Thanks for tyhe help :)
 
Upper shackle bushings and bump stops just got here about 45 minutes ago. I also rounded the bolt heads on my grade 8 spring pins....:) Just waiting on my brake lines from Shane and the 60 will be under the rig again.....then it's off to the shackle flip in the rear:D

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Looks as though the tie rod hits the oil pan

Looks as though the tie rod hits the oil pan. What are my options? I am thinking standard crossover or a low profile oil pan for the 6.2L. Has anyone had this problem and what did they do to solve it???

I am so frustrated right now:crazy:

Also with the over load removed the front looks no where near 4" lift??? I am going to wait until I finish the rear this weekend to make any adjustments. The over load might make it's way back in the pack:mad:

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Yeah you could get a stock length tie rod, and just run it stock location. I have no idea on the oil pan thing. It's lookin good. It does look low. Stock 52's up front right? Whats the measurement from the top of the spring to the bottom of the frame if ya don't mind i could use the info:wink1:
 
I think the low tire pressure is throwing it off visually too. I will have to get measurements tomorrow as I am done going outside tonight:doah:

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I was thinking that too, but with 52's and the amount of travel with the axle moving rearward and upward it would be hard to do I think.
 
From the looks of your springs compaired to my rancho 4"ers Id say you actually are more like 3"-3.5" lift ish. And im also thiking your going to have to get an originla style tie rod.
 
Low profile oil pan or section/notch it well. Notch it high and far back. Loose capacity but get a large filter and maybe a cooler.
 
I would solve the problem after you take it out for the first time, put the stock tie rod in the stock location. You have enough stuff to worry about. I have done the build a rig a week or a month before a big run. KISS Keep It Simple Stupid. Just don't get caught up in things like notching the oil pan which could take way longer than you think. Do the simple fix for now and if you get everything done then you can go back to it. BTW I would notch the oil pan too.
 
I would guess the reason for less lift is the weight of the diesel motor compared to the weight of most running a sbc.
 

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