CK5
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Burb chop down.

well fellas I can't do any cutting today...

I have 10 bucks left in the bank, and I need more cutting blades (for the sawzall, and the grinder)....

tomorrow I am picking up the new inner fenders, and some cutting blades/discs. I will probably pick up those trialer lights too. They having LED lights, and are fully submersable.
 
Here's what I'd do. Use a P/U slider window from pretty much anything...

Dimensions are wrong but you get the idea, flat generic wall...

Burb chop.jpg
 
hey man, that's pretty good!, hahaha

Was that done on paint??

Yeah I think I may just end up doing that. I wonder where I can a sliding window from for cheap...
 
hehe yeah Paint. Well the obvious is the wreckers! Definitely check out the Triad. I wonder if you might be able to score the same section from an Avalanche? I have no idea what the dimensions are but it might be cool as heck to have the removeable panels...
 
Okay BOYO'S!! hahaha

Desicion time...

Chop the rear doors in half, and weld the window halfs into place for rear windows.

OR

Use polycarbonate with a safety coating.
The cost is $17.00 pers square foot for tinted, or $13.00 per square for untinted.

I tried looking for some sliding rear windiws, and couldn't come up with much. There aren't any chevy/GMC trucks in the junk yards around me...
 
Yeah that would be pretty bad ass to have removable panels in the rear of the burb. It would bring back the usefullness of the bed again, hahaha.

I'm always calling up the local yards, and only one has a chev truck sitting in the back. And it has been picked pretty dry... pretty much a cab and a chassis, and misc. parts...
 
Clod_King said:
Yeah that would be pretty bad ass to have removable panels in the rear of the burb. It would bring back the usefullness of the bed again, hahaha.

I'm always calling up the local yards, and only one has a chev truck sitting in the back. And it has been picked pretty dry... pretty much a cab and a chassis, and misc. parts...

Make sure to hit up the stuff out of town. And don't be afraid to look out Toronto way. I'd be happy to pick something up for you.

Infact we could cruise together if you wanted. If you took the train in, I could pick you up at the station, spend a day searching and I'll drive you home afterwards.

Once I'm back in Hamilton I'd be happy to go searching in that area too.

I find the Triad is invaluable. I know we've missed the Ancaster and Caledonia swaps, but maybe there are some more coming up?
 
I'll keep my eyes n' ears open for any swap meets coming up jay. I know a few guys that go to those things often.

I plan to have the back end finished up on the truck by friday... or at the very least saturday.

Does any know if you HAVE to have the wheels covered to pass safety?? Or can I just throw some mud flaps at it, and that would be all???
 
Clod_King said:
Does any know if you HAVE to have the wheels covered to pass safety?? Or can I just throw some mud flaps at it, and that would be all???

Tough to say...if the passenger compartment is enclosed should be ok. I will really depend on how you structurally tie in the sides to the remaining floor/frame.
 
Okay, because I was thinking that since a transport truck with no trailer can be on the highway with only mud flaps on then I could do that too.

Just 4WS, some older honda accords, and Nissan 350's had that too.

And full hydraulic steering is legal because dump trucks use it all the time....

See where I am getting at here. loop holes are key, hahaha.

Oh! and I transfered some funds from my credit line, and bought some lights, and cutting blades/discs and took the tail pan, and evened out the width of the bed.

So what, I was at 352 lbs. removed, I am now up to 378lbs. removed. And that doesn't even include the mounds of rust that have been piling up aroun the perimeter of the truck...

Pictures..

100_9821.JPG

100_9822.JPG
 
OH YEAH!! What should I do with that fuel inlet??

what to do indeed....

I was thinking about cutting the solid tube down, and the making a bracket to tie it into the bottom of the bed.

I know that way won't be IDEAL for trail riding, but it is not a permanent fix. I could relocate it later when I have the time/funds to do so..
 
:eek1: I thought I dove right in when I hacked up my bed.

I would have tried to find a crew cab tub to swap. or put a blazer top on it like the guy from Texas.

As for the gas filler. I would shorten the hoses before the metal neck. you need the metal neck for structure and to have something to shove the pump nozzle into.
 
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good call on that one gmc4cw.

I was actually looking at your thread a few days before I ripped my truck to shreds.

So I blame you for all this!!!:haha: :haha: :haha:
 
Clod_King said:
good call on that one gmc4cw.

I was actually looking at your thread a few days before I ripped my truck to shreds.

So I blame you for all this!!!:haha: :haha: :haha:

:doah: but I don't drive mine on the street. Wait till you see whats next.


You are definitely going to have a unique vehicle when done.
 
YOU NEVER SAID ANYTHING ABOUT NOT DRIVING YOUR VEHICLE ON THE STREET!!!!!!!

Oh man, starting tomorrow I am putting it back together again!!:haha: :haha:


Why? waddya got planned next for truck??

And thanks man, I hope it ends up looking half decent, and doesn't fall apart when i hit the first speed bump....
 
Okay, I got my inner fenders this morning, and I am planning on getting the "hoop" semi installed today...

100_9823.JPG
 
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Clod_King said:
Okay, I got my inner fenders this morning, and I am planning on getting the "hoop" semi installed today...

You should be busy working right now, but were the old ones rusty? I thought they were solid...:confused:
 
The drivers side was rusting where it met the body, and the passenger side was in pretty much good condition.

the driver side inner fender was actually getting pretty bad. I rammed a screw driver through, and was able to disintegrate a nice 3"x5" hole..

Passenger side HAD to be cut out. No really bad rust that I could see...
 
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