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Burban tow build possibly 84 avalanche

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down4thakrown

down4thakrown

1/2 ton status
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down4thakrown submitted a new Build:

Burban tow build possibly 84 avalanche

Going to be getting this good ole suburban back on the road. Cool short story behind this truck (350,700r4np208), was I got it for 1500$ and drove it from flagstaff az to Spokane Washington. And haul back a snow mobile,2 utility quads,2 kids quads (80cc) and a bunch of random boxes packed and stacked top to bottom and front all the way to back of drivers seat. It even caught on fire on the way back, half way home. It was from the auto hubs not unlocking and spinning the front pumkin, eventually seized and caught what ever was dripping on it, on fire. Got the fire out and it still made it. While overheating most the way. Before and after fire. Not to long after the trip trans went out. Made it kinda hard to get rid of after it made that trip:cool:
Plans are 5.3/th400/208. I already got the trans and tcase

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Read more about this build here...
 
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Bummer is it has salvage title but, which makes it easier to cut up to a avalanche style. I'm thinking possibly putting 5th wheel hitch or camper. You guys think stock gas tank or frame design would cause issue for 5th wheel hitch? And I'm also thinking about putting cab over. And makeing the camper tie down points inside bed? Or would it be a bad idea since body's structial integredy was compromised by cutting roof off? Just kicking some ideas, going to be a little bit before I started on it.
 
I know i'm just a new guy here but b i"ll try. Yes and no,, the 5th wheel hitch will fit,like a truck bed,but on the truck bed,the bed is bolted to the frame so the hitch will be bolted to the frame,but on the (sub) the floor is floating on the body rubber mounts.so if you cut around the hitch so it fit to the frame let the body move around it.but the back after you cut the roof off should be adopt 6 feet long but if you put the hitch in the middle ,all the load would be on the back shackles, not in the middle of the axle,it well push pig up and change the axle-drive shaft angle .you might drop the tank but I don't think it would be in the way. As far as putting in a camper, they need both to set on the floor and the sides of a truck bed , you need to cut the sides down to 19.5" ftom the floor. I hope this will help,and you have a nice sub to start with
 
Maybe I could just cut a hole in the floor and mount it straight to frame. I never had a truck with a 5th wheel or installed one. I was wondering how they mount. And I noticed the prices on BBC 454's have gone down so it might be getting a 454 instead of 5.3 for the torque. And ease of installation
 
Forgot I started this thread. Put in some new carpet, new seat covers, new das mat, pressure washed all under carriage, rattle canned under carriage, cleaned up and repaired wires under hood, fixed rear shock mount, fixed broken exhaust hanger, replaced diff fluid and put some good rubber on it. It's already feeling like a new truck. Just waiting on motor,trans and radiator.

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So I'm just about done with this dam thing. Every step fwd I've had to take 2 backwards. Just finishing up the fitech 600hp install on my 383. Should have been done along time ago but got screwed over by phoenix engine. Had to buy find system because Phx Engine can't tune jack shit and has the worse customer service because since I live at 7000ft elevation, I have to re jet my carb whenever I go above 3500ft. Which he never mentioned before, charged me around 1k$ more then he quoted me,making it about 6k$ for a turnkey 354hp motor, That He Used MY WORLD 64CC HEADS AND MY INTAKE, broke in ready to run. But with nothing showing where all the 6k went or itemization, and took 6 months to build all because it was a "custom motor" Should of had motor built somewhere else. Long story short, spent another 1400$ on fitech 600hp with FCC, Runs great when the fuel isn't vapor locking. and has air bags and new 33" tires. Just have been fighting a vapor lock issue due to the p.o.s. fitech fuel command center (FCC). Now it's getting a intank pump with c5 filter/regultor same as my ls swapped k5. Which I really regret not doing to this. It's been a very ugly battle with this truck. Mainly do to phx engine totally dropping the ball and not giving two shits. So after all said and done, I got around 7k into this motor. That requires to have oil changed every 1500 miles, with a Lucas and zinc oil additives. It's unbelievable....don't use Phoenix engine! Owner name is Randy! I'll be updating with photos.
 
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I wouldn't run the vette filter, run a return and vent the tank.
 
The vette filter has the return. I've read people haveing good results with the vette filter. Have you had a bad experience with them? I'm just waiting on the filter and isn't much to run the return line. The tank is vented, I even routed all the fuel lines to outside of the frame to avoid the vapor lock. It helped alot but in slow stop in go traffic for almost 2 hours, the FCC boils the fuel. I was watching the low psi fuel disappear in the fuel filter that was only 2 feet from the tank. I've been working on this since mid June. Doing test pulls towing my loaded 10k toy hauler. Worked great until I drove in slow stop and go traffic, NOT TOWING. Talk about frustration! When I thought I had it figured out.
 
Some people have had issues with the vette filter running FiTech. With all the issues you've had I would recommend running the return and let the FiTech regulate its own fuel.
 
Dam I thought I read just about every comment google showed on it. I'm going to see what else I can find
 
skunked said:
I've heard both, sounds like the FCC....

I run the EP381 pump in a TBI tank with the FiTech filter post pump. Runs very well.
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Sweet, yea at first I had no problems, but then when I started towing, the exhaust was close to factory lines in one spot and it would vapor lock, so I routed fuel lines to outside of tank, it was all good, until I read something about a guy who was just cruiseing around for a couple hours and got stuck in traffic and it quit on him. So I basically re-enacted it and it did same thing. I think it's just the FCC isn't a return style do with hot gas entering the FCC, and it not letting any hot gas exit other than the tbi. The pump cooks the gas because going slow and idleing, blipping throttle it doesn't use much gas so it cooks it before it exits, and builds pressure not letting cooler gas in which causes lower psi feed to vapor lock. Also from what I read gas vaporizes faster (boiling temp lowers) with higher psi, higher octane (91oct) and higher altitude.
 
In theory that all makes sense and you're probably right. I was never a big fan of the FCC even before the issues began to pop up. Something about a hot little tank of gas under the hood doesn't sit well with me.....
 
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