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Buying new engine, what should I go with?

It will work and bolt in with no mods.
Still has 1 piece rear main, no roller cam thou.
Make sure you use a good quality cam lube (high zinc) to break in cam.
 
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Cambo said:
My budget is around $3k. I did look at the Scoggin Dickey link. I may go that route. What about something like this? https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/059/8758/10002/-1
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Looks to be a stock replacement, like Wes said, use a high zinc break-in oil and follow break-in procedures or you will lose your cam. I made that mistake once and then decided to go roller cam.
 
That Jegs 350 is crazy cheap. Its a reman, not new like the GM crate. Should do the job fine either way. I am amazed they can even make any money at $1599 shipped for free.
 
For the same new GM crate 12568758 engine Jegs is $2867 and Scoggin Dickey is $2750. Both ship for free, I wonder if they both charge tax.
 
Thanks for the info everyone. I have pretty much decided going with either the jegs Reman or the Scoggin Dickey new and use the rest of the money for whatever comes up.
 
Cambo said:
Thanks for the info everyone. I have pretty much decided going with either the jegs Reman or the Scoggin Dickey new and use the rest of the money for whatever comes up.
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The only problem with the remanufactured TBI engine is the remanufactured TBI heads. Those heads are known for cracking just because the steel is old and brittle. The 1-piece rear main seal blocks on the TBI engines are considered to be some of the best blocks there is to rebuild, but not the heads. That is why buying a completely all new engine with new steel block and heads is the best way to go because the new steel heads will last at a minimum 150,000-miles or probably more.
 
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HankScorpio said:
For the same new GM crate 12568758 engine Jegs is $2867 and Scoggin Dickey is $2750. Both ship for free, I wonder if they both charge tax.
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Jegs will price match. They did that for my new GM Goodwrench TBI crate engine.
 
1-ton said:
The only problem with the remanufactured TBI engine is the remanufactured TBI heads. Those heads are known for cracking just because the steel is old and brittle. The 1-piece seal blocks on the TBI engines are considered to be some of the best blocks there is to rebuild, but not the heads. That is why buying a completely all new engine with new steel block and heads is the best way to go because the new steel heads will last at a minimum 150,000-miles or probably more.
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This is true. I have run 2 TBI past 200,000 miles. 1 is still going strong and the other was fine but I ran it hard with little to no oil pressure and it has likely eaten a bearing. Still runs good though, just making a racket. I had no intention of rebuilding it since the crate options are cheaper than sending it to the machine shop. When you take cracking of the heads into account as @1-ton said the new GM casting becomes a great choice.
 
bigblock454 said:
What's wrong with everyone, the obvious correct answer:

View attachment 322737
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6.2? What's wrong with it? When I see how simple my CUCV is underhood compared to my TBI K5, I'm kinda tempted to go that route sometimes. Dead simple, bulletproof, waterproof. Also noisy as hell and not much power, but I don't take my K5 on the interstate anyway.
 
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