I was the master of snapping bolt heads off.
CK5
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C Code to J Code Manifold Swap on 84 K-5
- Thread starter maynardogle
- Start date
maynardogle
1/2 ton status
The vacuum pump supples vac to the heater / AC levers to operate the little doors in the ventilation system, and cruise control as well.
desertrat67
Hawk Driver
Ther reason you will not findthem on the HMMWV.
Just completed this swap over the weekend and wanted to add a few notes.
Vehicle is a '90 K5 w/ factory 6.2. Cruise control and A/C was previously removed.
Intake was presumably a very late model 6.5 J-code single plenum.
I didn't see it mentioned in the write-up or noticed it in the pictures, but on mine all of the fuel lines between the pump and cylinders had brackets that were held on by the intake bolts. There are 4 sets of 2 lines each that come from the pump through the legs of the intake then split out to each cylinder. 3 of these sets have a two piece bracket with one piece going under the fuel lines and lining up with two of the bolts, then a second piece that goes on top of the lines to sandwich the. These are a little bit of a pain to reinstall.
As AJM mentioned I also had issue removing the top bolt that retained both the main fuel feed line to the injector on the one intake stud/bolt, and the one holding on the two grounds. I couldn't get a wrench on the bottom hex hold to hold it still and when I turned the topped bolt it just wanted to twist the line. Resolved this issue was wedging a screwdriver into the brackets/bottom hex head to hold it half-way still and then used an impact to take off the top bolts.
To access the rearmost passenger side intake bolt I simply loosened up the one bolt holding the vacuum pump on and rotated it out of the way.
This particuliar intake required some modifications to make fit. First issue when I tried to install it was that is was hitting the vacumm pump. There are two cast in "feet" on the back runners with threaded holes in it that are not present on the other 6.2 intakes I have seen. I'm guessing these are possibly for the engine cover that the 6.5 turbos had? I took a sawzall and sliced both of these feet off (not sure if the drivers side needed it, but I just did both while at it). You do need to make sure the passenger side one is pretty close to cut off flush with the runner as the vacuum pump housing doesn't clear it by much.
After this the intake still wouldn't sit completely flush against the engine. Inspection showed the two most forward, and two most rearward bolt flanges/feet were contacting componets (glow plug controller bracket on drivers rear, coolant/head ports at the front). These areas had been machined down from the factory after the intake was cast, but apparently not enough. A few minutes with the rotary rasp took care of this.
Next issue once the intake was sitting flush. I could start the bolts on one side (tried both the driver and pass. side), but even after barely threading in just one bolt on one side I couldn't get any bolts started on the other side. I messed around with this for awhile with no luck but had the idea of drilling out the bolt holes in my mind thanks to this write-up. After about 15 minutes I pulled the intake off and drilled out all of the holes to 1/2" (I was able to get the middle deep holes drilled all the way through with no issue). After this there were no issues getting the bolts started.
Everything else bolted right up. The CDR would have, but I removed this setup years ago.
Other notes:
- I ported/gasket matched the runners on the intake which only took around an hour to do. Didn't have a carbide burr nor wanted to spend $20 on one so bought a $3.99 rotary rasp that worked great. I'm sure it had to help some.
- Turned up the fuel pump around 1/8 to 1/6 turn while the intake was off (slightly easier to get to). Full throttle in the driveway and after a short test drive does shows barely any black smoke, though on the road it's slightly hard to tell because my dual exhaust dumps just before the rear axle so I can't look right at the tailpipe while driving. We have a trail ride coming up in a couple of weeks.
- Noticable increase in power on the short test drive, but I don't run it on pavement very much so the trail ride will be the big test.
Vehicle is a '90 K5 w/ factory 6.2. Cruise control and A/C was previously removed.
Intake was presumably a very late model 6.5 J-code single plenum.
I didn't see it mentioned in the write-up or noticed it in the pictures, but on mine all of the fuel lines between the pump and cylinders had brackets that were held on by the intake bolts. There are 4 sets of 2 lines each that come from the pump through the legs of the intake then split out to each cylinder. 3 of these sets have a two piece bracket with one piece going under the fuel lines and lining up with two of the bolts, then a second piece that goes on top of the lines to sandwich the. These are a little bit of a pain to reinstall.
As AJM mentioned I also had issue removing the top bolt that retained both the main fuel feed line to the injector on the one intake stud/bolt, and the one holding on the two grounds. I couldn't get a wrench on the bottom hex hold to hold it still and when I turned the topped bolt it just wanted to twist the line. Resolved this issue was wedging a screwdriver into the brackets/bottom hex head to hold it half-way still and then used an impact to take off the top bolts.
To access the rearmost passenger side intake bolt I simply loosened up the one bolt holding the vacuum pump on and rotated it out of the way.
This particuliar intake required some modifications to make fit. First issue when I tried to install it was that is was hitting the vacumm pump. There are two cast in "feet" on the back runners with threaded holes in it that are not present on the other 6.2 intakes I have seen. I'm guessing these are possibly for the engine cover that the 6.5 turbos had? I took a sawzall and sliced both of these feet off (not sure if the drivers side needed it, but I just did both while at it). You do need to make sure the passenger side one is pretty close to cut off flush with the runner as the vacuum pump housing doesn't clear it by much.
After this the intake still wouldn't sit completely flush against the engine. Inspection showed the two most forward, and two most rearward bolt flanges/feet were contacting componets (glow plug controller bracket on drivers rear, coolant/head ports at the front). These areas had been machined down from the factory after the intake was cast, but apparently not enough. A few minutes with the rotary rasp took care of this.
Next issue once the intake was sitting flush. I could start the bolts on one side (tried both the driver and pass. side), but even after barely threading in just one bolt on one side I couldn't get any bolts started on the other side. I messed around with this for awhile with no luck but had the idea of drilling out the bolt holes in my mind thanks to this write-up. After about 15 minutes I pulled the intake off and drilled out all of the holes to 1/2" (I was able to get the middle deep holes drilled all the way through with no issue). After this there were no issues getting the bolts started.
Everything else bolted right up. The CDR would have, but I removed this setup years ago.
Other notes:
- I ported/gasket matched the runners on the intake which only took around an hour to do. Didn't have a carbide burr nor wanted to spend $20 on one so bought a $3.99 rotary rasp that worked great. I'm sure it had to help some.
- Turned up the fuel pump around 1/8 to 1/6 turn while the intake was off (slightly easier to get to). Full throttle in the driveway and after a short test drive does shows barely any black smoke, though on the road it's slightly hard to tell because my dual exhaust dumps just before the rear axle so I can't look right at the tailpipe while driving. We have a trail ride coming up in a couple of weeks.
- Noticable increase in power on the short test drive, but I don't run it on pavement very much so the trail ride will be the big test.
That is a great write up and will help me and many others I'm sure.
Any way someone could get the pictures showing again?
Any way someone could get the pictures showing again?
I pm'd the original poster. Hopefully this in't gonna be a time consuming fix.
Rene
Rene
maynardogle
1/2 ton status
OK... I went to Photobucket and reset the pictures. Hopefully they are back for everybody. Regarding Vac pump, I never removed mine. it failed years ago but if I pull it what do i do with the hole?
diesel heads
maynardogle,
You seem to know what you're doing, so here's a question.
Can I put 6.5L heads on my 6.2L block and do I need the 60deg or 90deg heads?
maynardogle,
You seem to know what you're doing, so here's a question.
Can I put 6.5L heads on my 6.2L block and do I need the 60deg or 90deg heads?
maynardogle
1/2 ton status
I dunno man... I always heard the better deal was 6.2 heads on a 6.5 block and i don't think the injector angle matters. My 6.2 has 205 thousand on it and as far as I can tell the valve covers have never been off, let alone the heads. I have only rebuilt a couple engines in my time and never a diesel. I plan to keep my K/5 with it's 6.2 until it won't run anymore and I am already looking for a repacement turbo motor to drop when that happens. Bottom line.. my real expertise is electrical not mechanical.
You can plug the hole, I think I might still have one of those.
Or you could buy my vacuum pump.
DieselWarrior
1/2 ton status
1) Thanks to the OP, I have a C code intake, and getting ready to put a civilian J code intake on soon.
2) You can remove and discard the old vacuum pump if you so desire, it is up to you. However, if you want your oil pump to still work, I suggest keeping it in, weather it functions or not.
The shaft that works the pump off the cam, also turns the oil pump at the bottom of the shaft, kind of a spline slip shaft type deal. I just replaced my VP so I know first hand, how it works.
Thanks again OP!
Andrew
2) You can remove and discard the old vacuum pump if you so desire, it is up to you. However, if you want your oil pump to still work, I suggest keeping it in, weather it functions or not.
The shaft that works the pump off the cam, also turns the oil pump at the bottom of the shaft, kind of a spline slip shaft type deal. I just replaced my VP so I know first hand, how it works.
Thanks again OP!
Andrew
maynardogle
1/2 ton status
Ah HA... I knew I left it in there for a reason !!!
harry 387
Registered Member
What is the difference between a c and j code intake? I be a 72 YO dum ass.
herkdriver007
1/2 ton status
J code loses the EGR
What he said. "J" code is the no emissions engine from the heavier trucks. No EGR, means a better flowing wide open intake. Gain a little power 5-8 hp I'd guess. Maybe a little more.
Should we use RTV on the new gasket? Both sides? Or just clean the surfaces and run it dry?
desertrat67
Hawk Driver
I never used RTV and never had an issue. Clean off the old mating surface as best you can, put the new gaskets on(If I remember correctly, there is a little plastic tab on each end to hold them in place) and torque to spec.
