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C30 6.0, is NOW a burb swap, thread.

Chevy305 said:
Didn't you say that you didn't want to run premium earlier? If so you'll probably want to stay below 10.0 in order to do so. You can run less timing with 87 and a 10.5 but you'll be leaving power on the table.
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I still have to look at pistons.
That was with L92 stock replacement.
If I go forged, I may be able to get a more dished to get closer to 9.6-9.8. I think an even 10 and some timing is be ok. Yes at a small loss. But not a lot..

The 10:1 was with 0 deck clearance, and +2 on the piston. I may be off on both of those. Also don't know what my gasket compressed thickness will be. I can fine adjust it with that.
 
Headers are back ordered, but they're ordered :D.

Should be here before I need them Id guess.
 
Knew I was forgetting something....

I still gotta deal with the fuel system. It's the delco 381, or something that everyone uses right?
 
Went with some underdog mounts. Figure even if I have to strip and reweld em, it was worth a try.
Then got a trans mount to match my motor mounts.
And went with this TCI shifter.

We'll see how it all goes.

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This is the cam kit I'm ordering. But I have to wait a bit and see about throwing more parts on the cart before I do.
I have the gasket set, and a lifter set in there at the moment. I have to add bearings and such if I can.

"Summit Racing SUM-8718-1 Summit Racing® Pro LS Vortec Truck Swap Camshafts | Summit Racing" https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-8718-1
 
Sounds like a decent cam choice. I personally would install some LS3 valve springs or better just for some better valve control at high rpm and better longevity.

Speaking from experience along with many others, skip the external fuel pump with a baffleless tank. You'll have fuel pressure issues below 1/4 tank. In tank pump with a baffle is the way to go.
 
Chevy305 said:
Speaking from experience along with many others, skip the external fuel pump with a baffleless tank. You'll have fuel pressure issues below 1/4 tank. In tank pump with a baffle is the way to go.
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I was about to post the same thing, the TBI tanks are cheap and are a direct swap. Fuel pump reliability and longevity is WAY better in-tank, have seen tons of problems with external ones.
 
That's gonna put me in the zone of troubles. Lol. A new tank, pump, sending unit, and proper lines at the tank are going to run me down another $500:doah:. On top of the fact that if I buy a new tank it won't be a saddle type.
So frame mount is what seems most feasible at the moment:dunno:
 
shady said:
That's gonna put me in the zone of troubles. Lol. A new tank, pump, sending unit, and proper lines at the tank are going to run me down another $500:doah:. On top of the fact that if I buy a new tank it won't be a saddle type.
So frame mount is what seems most feasible at the moment:dunno:
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From Rock Auto you're taking about $80-90 for a tank and $50-60 for a sending unit, gotta buy the pump and fittings either way. Maybe call that $200 shipped?

Not sure where you're going with not using a saddle tank either way, but if you're thinking of a Blazer/Suburban tank they're right in that same price range. The Spectra stuff is made in Canada and pretty good quality.
 
shady said:
That's gonna put me in the zone of troubles. Lol. A new tank, pump, sending unit, and proper lines at the tank are going to run me down another $500:doah:. On top of the fact that if I buy a new tank it won't be a saddle type.
So frame mount is what seems most feasible at the moment:dunno:
Click to expand...
I got a 87 G14 33 gal Burb tank with straps for $136 & the sending unit with a pump that I upgraded to a walbro for under $100 from Amazon of all places
 
Last spectra a bought was $160 and the 40 gal (which I'd like) was almost $200. Plus sender....


And I guess you are right, the pumps a wash cause I need it either way. So:dunno: yeah, I guess it's not that bad. If a saddle tank is cheap enough I could go that route. But I think the saddle tanks SUCK.
Worst design in years for trucks.
A 40 gal burb tank was in the works for this before, which is why I said if I bought a new tank it would be one of them...

But I guess if I'm going to spend 3500 putting it in, another $300-500 to feed it will have to happen.

And why not frame mount.?
I personally have not lost a frame mount in my life, but I've lost 4 in tank ones. And with an in tank I won't let it go below 1/4 ever anyway, because after about my 2nd I was told low fuel burns em up..
With a frame mount I can use my dual tanks that I have now, and not have to buy 2 pumps.... Once I get the transfer switch working anyway lol.
Just figured it's a way to spend the least amount of time and money now, so I can concentrate on rebuilding it and getting it in the truck.
Then later, (year at most) I can do my already planned 40 gallon burb tank.
Which is a semi involved fab process, and not bolt in lol.
 
A 40 gallon Suburban tank is $121, sending unit is $77. In tank pump can be had for $50ish depending on what flavor you get. All prices are from RockAuto.

Fuel lines will need to be adapted either way (in tank vs. external). Assuming you don't put the external after the switching valve (which I'm guessing you would).

Haven't seen it mentioned yet, but a filter will be needed too. If you're motor is returnless fuel rails, a Corvette style filter is the way to go. Only one line to run up to the engine.

Worst thing about an external aftermarket pump is trying to replace it when it dies. Finding one in the middle of nowhere can be a problem. Trying to use as many OEM parts (or good stock replacements) makes repairs easy and quick. FWIW, I've seen more people have problems with external pumps than intank.
 
Only thing with the burb tank swap is it'll push this out another couple months. Guess that's just what I'll have to do.
 
$300 plus lines for tank sender and pump. So $400 basically.
I wasn't real far off. By the time I add straps, odds n ends, and a decent filter, I'll be at $500.

Is what it is.
 
Got it on the stand for moving it around. Took some things apart also.

Got the wiring harness all separate finally.
I'm going to lay a 4x8 sheet of plywood on some saw horses and lay out the harness on that. And I'll go from there.

Roll around stand was hastily thrown together due to it being Christmas Eve, and I found out my granddaughter was at my house unexpectedly. I had the engine hanging over it with the tail connected when they called :doah:. I'll do more with it another time lol.

The cheap mounts I decided to give a chance seem to be wrong too. Something way off on the geometry. I'll modify them to get what I need. But lesson learned there.
They have 2 sets of holes for 2 mounting positions, but one set isn't even usable because of block interference :rolleyes::screwy:.
Oh well

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Between an unexpected Christmas gift, stimulus, and OT, I have $2k ready to start building with. Won't get me all the way, but it'll get me most of it. :woot:

Gonna talk to the engine shop before I buy parts. Make sure all I have in my cart will definitely work. Then it's brown santa and fed ex time :waytogo:
 
Parts list so far. The only part I think needs to change is the ring set.
Pistons say 3mm oil ring groove, and ring set says it has a 2.5mm oil ring. Couldn't even find a 3mm oil ring set.
So I have to dig more there.

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Plan is to bore it out to a 6.2.
And with those pistons and the right gasket I'll be setting right around 9.7:1-9.8:1.
 
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