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C30 6.0, is NOW a burb swap, thread.

shady

shady

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I'm embarking on my first ls swap very soon. If this is in the wrong place I'm sure a mod will move it lol.
I'm not really calling it a build, but more of an experiment and upgrade.

I plan to install an LQ4/4l80e combo from a van into my 85 C30 dually. Currently it has an all stock 454/sm465 setup.

I've saved and made shortcuts to a few threads on here that I knew were informative over the years. And I'll be re-reading most of them starting yesterday.
I'm currently in the parts and info stage. But will be progressing quickly once started.

What I have:
The truck,
The engine/trans combo,
The tools that I'll need (except maybe some LS specific ones),
And a space to do it.

What I know Ill need:
Exhaust manifolds that fit the truck. (Thinking of just going headers, but would rather save $$$ if there's a cheaper option).
Mounts, or adapter plates. (Might modify the stock ones that came on the engine ....?
PCM flashed for vats removal and whatever else needs done in it,
A shifter,
And I need to modify the harness.

Screenshot_20201208-215706.png

IMG_20201206_185014317.jpg
 
Couple quick questions that I've come up with so far.

What's the deal about steam tubes or something like that? I read some about it, and seen people adding them. But I've always wondered why if it's needed, it's not done from the factory...:dunno:. And if it is, why do we need to change it?

Is there a certain vehicle that long tube headers from will work in a square? I found some swap headers at summit, but I figured that SWAP term makes them cost more lol.

And does anyone on here still do pcm program and tuning?
 
These are the headers I found.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sch-1302ls1

I'd prefer long tube but I'd go shorty if I had to.

And it appears that shifters have all gotten crazy expensive. An $80 B&M is now $250 :doah:.
My main question about that is that there is a sensor on the shift linkage on the transmission. But all the shifters I've found do not show it in their pics.
Has anyone done an aftermarket shifter on a 4l80e? And if so, were you able to retain that sensor since I'm sure it's important somehow? lol.
 
shady said:
What's the deal about steam tubes or something like that?
Click to expand...
As I understand it there is a steam line that comes off of the water pump and goes to the radiator. From the factory.

shady said:
And it appears that shifters have all gotten crazy expensive. An $80 B&M is now $250
Click to expand...
I might have a couple of aftermarket shifters, I will look tomorrow.
 
The steam vents are used from the factory, they route to the radiator usually (lots of different "LS" stock configurations though). You should definitely keep them, if your radiator doesn't have a provision for the extra hose it's easy to add them inline on a radiator hose. Either fab or buy the stuff to do that (lots of cheap/easy options). They let the very hottest coolant out of the head and are good to keep detonation out, something older designs didn't have.

If you use an aftermarket shifter, it doesn't need to be wired to the switch on the side of the trans (i.e. a totally mechanical shifter/cable is fine). That switch plugs into your harness and just tells the PCM what gear the trans is in.
 
I just changed the water pump on my boys 04 burb and all it had were the coolant lines :dunno:

I did do some research finally and see that they are done factory and why. But I guess I was just confused due to some of the swaps sounding like they were adding them, not modifying what's there.
 
Doesn't the pcm need to know what gear it's in to do all it's voodoo?
 
I'm looking at a few different shifters, but just wasn't sure what I could use because of that.
 
4L80-e is full electric trans . It needs sensor input. needs to know whats its doing.

Yes best to have pcm know its gear ratio and tire height.
 
I used Speed Engineering headers on mine. Fit great, thick flanges, no 3-bolt collector to leak and are stainless. Also used there X-pipe kit.

The steam lines come off of the heads. Some people tap into the water pump to route them into. Others tie into the upper radiator hose. I used an 05 truck radiator and it had the barb for the steam line on it.

Went Diy4x4 for the mounts. No complaints there. Put the bell housing flange in the same place as the factory motor.

Try to use as many factory parts as possible. Makes maintenance down the road easier. If you have to drill/tap a water pump (if you route steam line to it), makes roadside repairs harder. Same goes for hoses, using the LS trucks radiator let me use the stock hoses. Air box/filter are also factory. No need to complicate things with random aftermarket parts.

Didn't see you mention wiring. I cut down the factory harness and used a BpAutomotive setup. This had all the fuses and relays that the motor needs. Only needed a few wires from the truck side to tie in.
 
I have the entire harness, fuse block and all, to start with on the wires.

I'm debating using the diy4x adapter plates and the stock mounts. Not sure there. Depends on what it looks like when I play with the factory mounts on it.

I seen where someone tapped the water neck for the steam ports. Think I'll do that. That way a pump change would still leave me with my modified piece.

Hopefully Friday I can get time to start labeling and disconnecting wire plugs to get the harness off.
I'm going to lay it all out as I seen in a vid I saved and start from there.

I've never heard of speed engineering so I'll look em up.... Can't afford stainless though lol.
 
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I looked up the speed engineering, and they're actually cheaper....:thinking:
Not long tube like I want. But I may be able to deal with that lol.
 
if you want to go the manifold route, trail blazer ss manifolds hug the block the tightest. as far as steam ports definitely run them. If yours are all capped off I have the factory piece that connects the front 2 i just pulled off my Cadillac you can have. I went with an aftermarket setup that utilizes all of them.
 
sweetk30 said:
Screw dirty dingo :angry1::flipoff1:

He has bad customer service and crap products. He treated me like sh!t and tried to pay me off to keep quiet on his junk .

He might have changed but i dont care . Still a A$$ !

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/be-warned-dirty-dingo-motor-sports.299192/
Click to expand...
To be the opposing point on dirty dingo. I used them on my 5.3. 1/4" thick plates, nicely cut and bent. Installed as expected with the engine right where the old 350 went. 5 years of use. On and off road. Bolts never got loose to the brackets. Upon removal other than being dirty they were no worse for wear. No cracks or other quality issues to report.

If I did another LS swap I'd certainly use them again.
 
LLeff said:
if you want to go the manifold route, trail blazer ss manifolds hug the block the tightest. as far as steam ports definitely run them. If yours are all capped off I have the factory piece that connects the front 2 i just pulled off my Cadillac you can have. I went with an aftermarket setup that utilizes all of them.
Click to expand...
early truck engines had a 4 port tube also . i pulled one off a 99 4.8 .

and exhaust manifolds i show in my build that the truck / yukon ones fit and i just had to put them on after engine in and cut and flip the down pipe to get it right down the middle of the frame rail .
 
6.0 truck exhaust manifolds fit the squarebody chassis just fine as long as you keep it in the stock location. Move it forward and the flanges on the manifolds won't clear the top rail of the frame.
 
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