C30 6.0, is NOW a burb swap, thread.

[sweetk30]

I think aftermarket has 1 part # kit for rear cover and crank seal and new housing now .

 

[shady]

I seen a few came in a set. But went with the gm on that one intentionally.

I'm not familiar with using some of the other names, and the felpro set that came up looked different than I'm used to their stuff looking. So I went GM, since sofar I haven't really seen the stock GM rears on the LS to be a problem.

 

[LLeff]

i didnt see a stroker crank on that parts list?

 

[shady]

Lol. I wish. Oh well. I found out the combo I was after starts with a 5.3.

5.3 isn't what was offered to me, so I build what I got .

Turns out that a 5.3 stroked to a 383 is a low end torque king. Fuel for future thought.

 

[LLeff]

i just finished an aluminum 6.0, stoked and bored to a 421, i'm happy with it but it definitely snowballed into a lot more than what i thought it would be. on the front and rear cover seals don't forget the alignment tools

 

[shady]

The front I've seen people use the harmonic balancer, tighten what they could get at, then remove it again to tighten the rest.
Rear I figured the crank did its own aligning...
I'll look the tools up though and see.

 

[shady]

I see now
Thanks

 

[shady]

Found the tools, and found the right rings for the pistons.

I've never file fit rings before. Seems like the oil ring would be hard to file fit .
May just take em to the builder and have them do it .

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

You don't file the oil ring

 

[shady]

I plan to watch videos. I kind of thought filing the oil ring would be hard to do lol.
I've watched a few on it back when I rebuilt my moms heep 4.0.
Didn't seem that hard. But all I seen was them doing the top 2.

The rings say bore size 4.065+5. I'm guessing the +5 is what you file down. .
Seems like an odd way to write it.

"DSS Racing RS-DM200-4065+5" https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dms-rsdm20040655

 

[shady]

Just seems like a giant pain in the d*ck.

I don't understand why they don't just make em a drop in deal. There were sets that were. But not with the 3mm oil ring.

If I went with the only other pistons I could find that fit what I want, I'd end up at like 10.7:1.
So I guess I'm stuck forking with ring gap crap.

 

[centexk5]

Ring gap takes little effort. Half an hour to an hour. It’s tedious is the issue.

 

[shady]

Doesn't seem bad. Just seems unnecessary.

You make rings for a certain bore size, make em right for that size

 

[centexk5]

Too many variables. Power adders need a larger ring gap, naturally aspirated needs a different one. Gapless rings are also a thing.

 

[shady]

Any other ls tools I'll need..?

 

[sweetk30]

Angle torque wrench for stretch bolts .

 

[shady]

The torque angle chit seems to be a bunch of crap to me. I see no real reason for it even after watching and reading the explanations. Doesn't make any sense.
Years apon years of stuff was built precisely and fine before that started.

I also can not see any way for an torque wrench to tell me rotation of the bolt.

The dial indicator deal you put under a ratchet yes. But a digital one I don't get.
Unless it has a 1mm precise gps built into the handle, how does it know how far the bolt has turned?

 

[LLeff]

Any other ls tools I'll need..?

i think the other biggest one would be a harmonic balancer puller they require kind of a strange 3 jaw puller type. you can make an installer out of the old bolt

 

[Blue85]

The torque angle chit seems to be a bunch of crap to me. I see no real reason for it even after watching and reading the explanations. Doesn't make any sense.
Years apon years of stuff was built precisely and fine before that started.

I also can not see any way for an torque wrench to tell me rotation of the bolt.

The dial indicator deal you put under a ratchet yes. But a digital one I don't get.
Unless it has a 1mm precise gps built into the handle, how does it know how far the bolt has turned?

I went super fancy on my last head install:

 

[shady]

I just went this route.