Cadilac motors

[Taylor]

Here is a good link I found for identifying the different types of caddy motors and it has a chart with their factory power numbers.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9364/guide/Engineid.html

 

[muddybuddy]

The more I read this thread, the more I want to swap a big block caddy into my truck

x2!

do you have to get rid of any accessories like A/C to get the motor to fit? wonder how a 700r4 would hold up

 

[muddermilitia]

Last time I was at the local pick n pull, they had a early 70's eldorado with a 500. I don't know if I'd trust a motor from that place, what's the most someone would pay for one of these, if you were expecting to rebuild it.

 

[Burn-N-Daylight]

Damn I'm such a retard I'm glad that you started this thread. My wife's grandpa gave us his 73 caddy when he moved to AZ. Here is the Down fall the car only has 83k original miles the car is in better than fair condition and the car is in Washington. i do believe it has the 472. i was not aware of the hp the car had. Do you think i should pull the motor and scrap the car or ??? with the price of fuel i don't think that i will have much luck selling the car besides that its 22' long. ( true land yacht). HMMM what to do.

 

[muddermilitia]

If it's in good condition, don't scrap it, those are beautiful cars

 

[boz42]

I am running a Cadillac 500 in my K5 too. It is a 547 stroker now. I love it. Don't forget they are lighter than a BBC too. Never Dyno'd mine but it feels a lot stouter than my 468 BBC & it dyno'd at 475 hp & 525 torque.

 

[cybrfire]

500 cad in my trail rig and the same in my tow rig. 2-3 more saved up for future replacements.

Kept AC on my crewcab motor. Kept the pump in the factory position. Stayed with the stock intake to do it. Stock intake isn't the greatest thing out there but should be good for a tow rig. Accessory mounting is the fun part!

 

[MaxPF]

It must just be me, but I have never understood the fascination with the Caddy motors. Why? Because you can easily make a BBC do the same (or better) with better (and less expensive) parts availability, have a more common bellhousing pattern, no need to change motor mounts, and far more aftermarket goodies. Seems like a no-brainer to me...

 

[AJMBLAZER]

While weighing several hundred pounds more and there's few BBC's that make the kind of numbers a 472 or 500 can stock.

Not to mention the adaptor to change the pattern is less than $100 from JEGs last I knew.

 

[77crewcab]

Hey Kert, any chance that DIY might be coming out with accessory mounts for the Caddy engines? Maybe something similar to an engine mount plate that all the accessories can bolt to. I mean since you have engine handy for mock ups and all.

 

[Ned Kelly]

Hey Kert, any chance that DIY might be coming out with accessory mounts for the Caddy engines? Maybe something similar to an engine mount plate that all the accessories can bolt to. I mean since you have engine handy for mock ups and all.

Or some Cad mtr mounts to GM truck? I know they are not too hard to fab on your own, but for those of us who have to work outside and have limited time and facilities it would make it easier.

 

[mikey_d05]

It's really not hard to make your own. The caddy uses 2 through bolts on either side of the block. Measure the spacing, drill 2 holes in a couple pieces of plate, and there's the motor portion.

A crossmember has been done (I owned one), but mine was a one-off done on my boxed '89 K5 frame with the motor shoved WAY back.

I don't think that a motor mount adapter would be terribly difficult, but most Caddy pans are front and mid sump, meaning they would get into your factory crossmember. So, for a bolt on piece, a full crossmember would be the only solution unless you went to a rear sump (Eldorado or aftermarket).

There are also a few other goofy things to consider about Caddy motors. They were NEVER drilled for pilot bushings. The oil pump and filter is housed in/on a funky little elbow that's in the worst possible location ever. And also, to retain the A/C in the factory location, you have to stick with the factory cast iron manifold. They're pretty awesome motors, but there are a few things to consider before diving into the swap.

Just my .02.

 

[77crewcab]

True but it would be nice to have a CK5er making them for those that don't want to build their own. And a accessory mounting plate would make it much easier to mount things like a York, newer style a/c compressor, etc.

 

[cybrfire]

Unfortunately it comes down to a question of demand versus Development time.

We have a pretty full R and D schedule as things stand currently. Not discounting the idea, just something that has to be weighed out here.

 

[77crewcab]

Well I guess that makes sense. I guess I'll have to break down and do it my self one of these days.

 

[Wasatch K5]

There's another thread going on about building a performance I-6.

My question on that thread was: Why? A 350 small block Chevy can be built to give excellent performance at a very reasonable cost.

Back to this thread. Same question. Why?

The 454 was a factory option in the Suburban and in 3/4, and one ton trucks. That means you have OEM engine mounts, bellhousings, transmissions, exhaust manifolds, engine accessories and brackets, radiators, radiator hoses, fuel lines, wiring harnesses, etc, etc, etc, available in wrecking yards or at your dealer.

Big block Chevy parts are a little more pricey than the small block ones, but they're much less than Caddy parts. There is a ton of information out there on making a big block perform better.

"But the Caddy motors make more torque". I'll raise the BS flag to that.

A 1972 Cadillac 500 makes 235 HP and 385 ft lbs of torque. Well a 1987 454 TBI makes 230 HP and 385 ft lbs of torque. And it makes it's peak torque at 1,600 rpm as opposed to 3,800 rpm for the Caddy.

"But the Caddy is lighter". 50 lbs, BFD.

If a 454 isn't big enough, get a 502.

 

[mikey_d05]

Well, if being different isn't enough for ya...Cad Company did a series of dyno tests. On an 8:1 rebuild, factory manifolds (intake and exhaust), bored .060 over, the motor pushed 493 lb-ft at 2600 RPM.

I'm gonna go ahead and guess that engines in the 70's were severely underrated.

 

[77crewcab]

Better design is a big factor. Dist. at the front where you can get to it, spark plugs above the exhaut manifolds, dry intake manifold etc. Now the valve train design is a weaker design but it can be remedied. Oh and better mileage than a BBC

 

[boz42]

The price per cubic inch for a caddy is no different than a big chevy. I have both & there is not much difference. I like both engines, they both have there strong points. BOP t-400's are dang near free. No need to buy $100 adapter.


There is no replacement for displacement.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

"But the Caddy motors make more torque". I'll raise the BS flag to that.

A 1972 Cadillac 500 makes 235 HP and 385 ft lbs of torque. Well a 1987 454 TBI makes 230 HP and 385 ft lbs of torque. And it makes it's peak torque at 1,600 rpm as opposed to 3,800 rpm for the Caddy.

Care to let us know where you got those numbers for the Caddy? In the July 2000 issue Hot Rod did project Torque Pig! and built up a '76 500. Freshly pulled from the junkyard and only opened up enough to make sure it was sound with MTS valve springs and shaved cylinder heads their 500 made 303hp at 3900rpm and 468lb/ft at 3,300rpm. With headers and the Edelbrock intake manifold they were at 340hp at 3800rpm and 501lb/ft at 3400rpm. Impressive no? With a swap to a hotter cam and a head swap with 12.5:1 compression they were at 450hp at 4600rpm and 580lb/ft at 3600rpm.

I can't remember where I read it but I beleive on one of the Hot Rod articles on these things they claimed 350lb/ft of torque AT IDLE!

"But the Caddy is lighter". 50 lbs, BFD.

If a 454 isn't big enough, get a 502.

Can someone tell me what a 454 weighs? The 500 in project Bad Seed in the April 2000 issue of Hot Rod weighed in at 585 lbs ready to run. That was after the Edelbrock intake...the stock one is a boat anchor.