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cage ?

Man I am sorry you are having trouble but I think you could salvage the rear half of the cage atleast behind the main hoop. I hate to highjack this but I have a question for you as to what cage you have right now.

What confusion I have is if you look at this picture which you have highlighted the S$W tube red you have 10 points of contact; so is this a 10 point cage kit. Or maybe my question should be is your cage a 10 point or 10 point and family cage? What tubes are included with the family cage option for 150?

I and some other members are having some confusion over what comes in the 10 point cage for 219. I ordered that kit last week after your post but now I am thinking I didn't order exactly what you had to start with. Is yours a 10 point kit or a 10 point kit and the family cage option? Thanks bud. Wishing you luck on your cage.

cage pic.jpg
 
Mine is the 10 point with family cage. This is what the 10 point looks like.
shopimages%5CCAGE%20new%20HC.JPG


Sorry for so small of a pic, the family add on is 3 bars "ones in red"

cage pic.JPG
 
I'm going to hi-jack while this thread is going.................



Anyone build a full cage yet, and keep there top, both front portion and removable hard top. It seems that most of you guys, Rene I Love your cage, cut off the top to full convertible. My main concern Is that I wont be able to make the cage removable unless I add in some clamps up front to seperate it in two. Because there is no way to fully weld a cage in the truck.

Some local 4x4 shop owner built an exo cage and didn't weld the inside by the body because he couldn't get to it :doah:

Thanks
Jesse
 
81jimmyslt said:
I'm going to hi-jack while this thread is going.................



Anyone build a full cage yet, and keep there top, both front portion and removable hard top. It seems that most of you guys, Rene I Love your cage, cut off the top to full convertible. My main concern Is that I wont be able to make the cage removable unless I add in some clamps up front to seperate it in two. Because there is no way to fully weld a cage in the truck.

Some local 4x4 shop owner built an exo cage and didn't weld the inside by the body because he couldn't get to it :doah:

Thanks
Jesse
Click to expand...
That shouldnt be hard to do. Bolt the rear in when you want it in. I dont know why you would want a part time cage but it can be done easily. When I built my cage I did it with the top on, removed top and cage for final welding.

As for a half top cage you could flange it somewhere but I dont see the benifit.
 
I'll post em again so all these cage pic's are in one place for you...

1004cage_5.jpg


1004cage_3.jpg


This is a crappy pic, but you can see the front halo bar has a downward bend and tucks just under the windsheild frame. I didn't start off with that in mind but once the 'straight' halo was up it became obvious that I needed to do something to be able to move that upwards as much as possible.

Here is a better shot from inside the truck...

1004DSC00238.JPG


For a bit more head room I could have put a slight bend in the brace bars too...

Hope that helps. If you need any more of my cage pic's they're in my gallery.

http://coloradok5.com/photos/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/1004

Which reminds me I need to clean that up a bit. It's pretty cluttered up with old useless pic's.

Rene
 
cegusman said:
Being 6.2' and having a prebent cage is not working out. When mounting my seats, they are allready 1.5" lower than stock and I only have 1/5" of forking clearence above my head and top hoop. The more I lower my seat the less I can see over the hood.
Click to expand...

In looking at the pics of your rig You should be able to salvage most of it. I would just change the area above your head.
 
81jimmyslt said:
I'm going to hi-jack while this thread is going.................



Anyone build a full cage yet, and keep there top, both front portion and removable hard top. :doah:

Thanks
Jesse
Click to expand...


I did this for an '86 K5 (check my gallery pics) The secret was making the main hoop attachment points a bolt together system instead of welding the whole thing together.

I was able to remove the whole thing for final welding and paint, and then re-assemble it inside the truck.....


:usaflag:
 
Thanks Greg

and Rene, also thanks for posting those pics again. I plan on building mine like yours, anything you would do different.

I didn't notice from previous pics that your front halo had that downward bend, nor did I know that your top still fits :bow: :bow:


Jesse
 
It's very tight to the top on the inside, less than 3/8" in a few places. I bent and fit the whole cage with the top on, then removed the top for welding. One big advantage to the full convertable. Going through the dash made removal after fitting impossible, so it was all welded in the truck. The dash bar I finished welding once the windshield was out, there was no way to get at it with the windshield in...:crazy:


Rene
 
I have the S&W cage and am also around 6-2. I've been wheeling the truck hard for almost two years now and have never had a problem with hitting my head on the cage. At first I was concerned about the location of the halo bar running to the left of my head and put padding on it, but I've never hit it. Stock seats mounted at stock height and retaining the stock 1/2 roof portion.

It appears that the main limitation of the S&W kit in regards to head room is that the cage is designed to fit inside the stock cab. On my halo bar you could probably move it up, but you would also have to move the bars further inwards at the same time to accomodate for the slope of the roof where it comes down to meet the door openings. Overall I would say you might be able to squeeze a little more room out of custom design but not a huge amount.

The main B-pillar hoop has never been an issue, though I do run my seat a little further forward on my trail rig than I normally would on a DD. The B-pillar hoop also fits almost perfectly inside the stock portion of the roof.....probably have less than 1/2" between the bar and roof.

For welding, I was able to get 360 degree beads at almost everything joint. I mocked the halo "U" to the main B-pillar bar, and then swung the B-pillar down a little to weld the top. There was enough room at the A-pillar to halo to weld all around with it in the final location. Everything back of the B-pillar was not an issue with 1/2 top removed.
 
81jimmyslt said:
I'm going to hi-jack while this thread is going.................



My main concern Is that I wont be able to make the cage removable unless I add in some clamps up front to seperate it in two.

Thanks
Jesse
Click to expand...

DIY4x has great parts for such the thing. I used them in my cage so I could remove the cage for final weld. They have anti-shear plugs on them, that may or may not give you piece of mind. The main reason I made my cage in 2 pieces is that with the front cage and using the factory roll bar, you have to tilt the cage back to get the front in. With the family cage add on, it was not possible. Here is a pic of the 2 piece point.

DSC00710.JPG

DSC00890.JPG

DSC00891.JPG

DSC00893.JPG

DSC00705.JPG
 
TruckNutzDude said:
Holy upgraded interior batman!!! :bow:
Click to expand...

Yeah, it makes it nice going from my 75 to my 95 burb with the same interior feel. I will be pulling the seats out in the future in favor of some 5 point suspension seats. Even though the interior in my 2 rigs are similar, the ride is way different. I want to be locked into my seat better when wheeling.
 
wow that interior is crazy how did you manage that

wow the heat and all those controls work in there too>
 
seschev3 said:
Yeah, it makes it nice going from my 75 to my 95 burb with the same interior feel. I will be pulling the seats out in the future in favor of some 5 point suspension seats. Even though the interior in my 2 rigs are similar, the ride is way different. I want to be locked into my seat better when wheeling.
Click to expand...

So what did you modify to get that sucker in there?
 
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